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Time to wire the car, questions


jkgts1

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Okay, this is long overdue. I've been working on and off on this 260z for 9 years. I put in a 2jzgte and pretty much nothing is stock anymore. I purchased a wire harness for the motor and new aftermarket body harness. I just have to figure out how to hook everything up properly and safely. I'm in not way an electrician and my knowledge of the subject is limited.

 

I discovered that a bunch of info on the Web is conflicting or deals with domestic vehicles more than imports. From my knowledge talking to the harness builder for the motor, there are only a few wires to hook up to get the motor running. There are already fuses for the fused circuits. So, when I'm laying out the body harness I see "ING coil" wire. I believe there is already a fuse for this on the engine harness. Same issue with alternator.

 

My question is should these 2 harnesses be kept separate? One is body electrical and the other motor, so they don't really need to interface anywhere, right?

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What company is the body harness from? I know painless doesnt normally have circuits for EFI.

 

The IGN should be all you need to run to the engine harness. My engine harness gets its power directly from the starter lug, grounds on the engine, and has relays that power everything on via an IGN signal. The alternator isnt an engine function and normally is part of the body harness.

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The EZ Wiring harness will need to be connected to a fuse block unless you bought an integrated system.  If that is the case, then the engine harness will need to connect to the EZ Wire harness to provide power to the appropriate functions assuming it has provisions for EFI.  For instance, an LS1 has separate ignition hot wires for the PCM, coils and injectors, sensors along with one (IIRC) constant power wire.  I am running a Painless 12-circuit fuse block and it does NOT contain provisions for EFI, so I have an ancillary fuse block just for the engine.  In this case, my engine fuse block gets it power directly from the battery and is fused separately.  That is most likely the case with the EZ Wiring system as well.

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The EZ Wiring harness will need to be connected to a fuse block unless you bought an integrated system.  If that is the case, then the engine harness will need to connect to the EZ Wire harness to provide power to the appropriate functions assuming it has provisions for EFI.  For instance, an LS1 has separate ignition hot wires for the PCM, coils and injectors, sensors along with one (IIRC) constant power wire.  I am running a Painless 12-circuit fuse block and it does NOT contain provisions for EFI, so I have an ancillary fuse block just for the engine.  In this case, my engine fuse block gets it power directly from the battery and is fused separately.  That is most likely the case with the EZ Wiring system as well.

Yes it has a fuse block with it and yes its like your painless, I don't see an EFI circuit. It does have an "ING COIL" circuit, but I'm pretty sure I'm not using that correct?

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Ok another question. The aftermarket chassis harness has single wires for lights and things, obviously they need to be grounded. Stock connectors in most vehicles have 2-3 wire from the connector. Do i just make my own grounding harness to tie all the grounds? Cuz in the instructions there is no mention of this. Maybe its common knowledge among electrical guys but i just realized it now.

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Lights can all be grounded to a place close to the lights. OEMs like to tie them all to one point, like for headlights, they are all bolted near the radiator support. I think its because fenders and such dont offer as good of ground due they are bolted across painted surfaces. The rear lights are also grounded in the hatch area. So you can make a ground wire that connects all the lights and runs to a common point close to the lights like OEM, or just ground each light next to the light. Just make sure you run a good ground strap to the battery from the chassis.I remember I did a Jeep with a Chevy truck painless harness and most of the marker lights were one wire. They just pull their ground from the body of the light asdsembly itself, bad design IMO because once corrosion gets in there, the light becomes problematic.

Edited by winstonusmc
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Okay very crude drawing, but any info would be great. So far this is the plan. Obviously the smaller things are not in the drawing, but just a general over view. Is there any issues doing this? The 2 fuses i put on the drawing, one says main. On the factory 2jzgte wire harness for this system uses a 50amp main, and 120amp between the charge stud and battery. Is this good?

1A1AC67C-43DA-4CCB-BBB8-BDF7963CF101_zps

Edited by jkgts1
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I always refer to OEM for wiring strategies. Most OEMs I have dealt with dont have any sort of breaker or fuse in between the battery and the starter. They pull a lot of amps to start the car. The likeliness of that circuit causing any issues is small anyway. As fare as a fuse for the alternator, some later nissans I have worked on use a fuse (fusable link) for that at 80+ amps. And that is to charge the battery. The rest of the circuits are connected to the alternator directly. And now for an equally crude drawing:

post-29313-0-69106900-1422116515_thumb.jpg

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I always refer to OEM for wiring strategies. Most OEMs I have dealt with dont have any sort of breaker or fuse in between the battery and the starter. They pull a lot of amps to start the car. The likeliness of that circuit causing any issues is small anyway. As fare as a fuse for the alternator, some later nissans I have worked on use a fuse (fusable link) for that at 80+ amps. And that is to charge the battery. The rest of the circuits are connected to the alternator directly. And now for an equally crude drawing:

attachicon.gifPower.jpg

Thanks. Here is a pic of what I believe is the ignition switch plug. The problem is the diagrams I've been lookin at don't match up with what I have. Meaning my wire colors are not the same as any of the diagrams I've looked at. Any thoughts?

20150126_205643_zpsh6wm7oyl.jpg

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