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CableSrv

Just starting my ls1/t56 build!

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Oops - sorry - didn't mean to sound like a smart A. I used to drive 17 miles each way to work - mostly interstate with maybe 3 miles of surface roads. I averaged 18-20 doing that. Engine temperature sensor not working right? Plugs should tell the story. Are you geared similar to me?

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I'm still on the stock R180 that came with the car. Plugs don't looked fouled at all. Engine temps are normal at around 210F. One of my plug wires seemed a little loose but doesn't seem to change how the engine sounds. Either way I pushed it further in to make sure it was a solid connection. Exhaust still smells super rich :( Sadly I don't have the money currently to do a full on tune.

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Checked with my obdII bluetooth sensor and still only running that one fault code for crank sensor relearn. Other than that everything looks normal. It shows it is running in close loop mode using O2 sensors for fuel trim. O2's are running anywhere from .1v to .8v 

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Almost 100% of my Z driving is at threshold traction in acceleration and at threshold traction in deceleration, excluding trailer loading, which is on the winch. The truck is either city driving or towing. I just know that my mileage is crap. I burned a full tank of gas during ZCON. I usually burn a full tank at a night at the strip.

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So been driving her for a bit and there seems to be a rather big issue. I'm getting maybe 9-10mpg on this engine. The only code being thrown last I checked was the crank relearn code since I put a 99+ pcm on a 98 engine. LS1Tech said this code would not put the engine in limp mode... but why am I getting such shitty mpg ?

Cannot stress this enough, but you need a quality tune. A crappy tune will cause terrible mileage and a myriad of other issues, and oftentimes they turn off the CELs that would normally turn on as a result. Get it tuned on a dyno and street by a competent local tuner, and you will see a ton of difference.

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Even to a stock engine? I mean really the only mods to the car are 3in exhaust and cold air intake from JTR. I just assumed that a stock tune shouldn't be this bad.

Even on a stock engine. Weight is different, exhaust/intake are totally different, and you have all the smog stuff removed. Car needs a tune without question. It may not be the only source of your bad gas mileage but I'm willing to bet its a large part of it.

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Unless you kept the catalytic converters and all four O2 sensors you already need to have the PCM retuned.  That was where they started with mine as I only kept the front two O2 sensors and deleted the cats and the rear sensors.  The weight, gearing, etc is not a huge issue - especially since a dyno tune won't be sensing the weight of the car - just the result of the gearing.

At some point your R180 half shaft universal joints are going to detonate on you - even with the 195 tires.  I detonated one of my R200 half shaft u-joints several years ago.  It had over 200k miles on it by then though.

A full dyno tune will properly map your engine.  It will also identify any issues you may be having - like an incorrect signal from your engine temperature sensor.  It could be continually sending an "I'm cold" signal which wouldn't necessarily send a fault code but would have you running in a "choke" mode all the time.  

I've been running on a tune from an ECU tuner for 12 years now and the car is doing pretty well but I've found a really good LS1 tuner over in Vancouver, WA and I'm planning on taking the car over to him to have a full dyno tune on it.

I know $500 is rich but, if you're running too rich you'll be washing down your cylinder walls with unburned fuel and the results of that will end up being a lot more than $500.

Edited by Phantom

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Phantom using my bluetooth obdII reader, it shows that it's running in closed loop mode which should be normal o2 sensors for fuel map. I only kept the front 2 o2 sensors so, I can see how removing the egr and cats could cause some fuel readings to be off... just didn't expect it to be this bad.

I know, just wasn't expecting that as a requirement to getting this installed and running. I always attributed it to a "get more hp thing" rather than help fix fuel efficiency issue. Considering when I get this done, I'll probably end up gaining some HP/TQ which as you put it, will eventually cause my u-joints to shatter. At some point in my future, I do plan to do cv's and a R200 with lsd.

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Is there anyone that could email you their tune file that are running close to what you have in your car? If they could delete the rear o2 sensors I think you'd be set.

 

I had a couple cbr liter bikes where I was able to swap tunes, even with slightly different mods and they both ran fine.

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