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Midnight Madness 560z...


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  • 3 weeks later...

So only update was the purchase of a 1999 mustang GT hydrobooster setup last week.

 

It cost more than I was told upon entering the yard, but was still cheaper than anywhere online or from a parts store. No pics right now, but I'm excited with how much more room it should give the cam cover and cylinder head on the driver's side.

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  • 3 months later...

Decided to change routes a little with the engine, TVS is up for sale and I'm going to go turbo.  The hassle of getting an adapter plate machined, ensuring the manifold mounting surface has good parallelism with the head sealing surface, tensioner bracket, idler pulley placement, etc.... was just to much of an expense and headache.  I should be able to sell the TVS, build a simple intake plate to adapt a turbo intake pipe to the manifold, purchase a turbo and manifolds for less than what the machining and parts was adding up to.  Local adds have an BW S475, S471 and a Turbonetics 76mm for less than 1/2 of what I should get for the TVS.

 

Early reports are that the inexpensive ebay SS shorty headers fit quite well, might also have a line on some JBA shorties with V-bands already added on.  Once the TVS is sold I'll get some other parts coming, or fund the machining and parts to get rods and pistons on the way, or buy a transmission and adapter so that I can get things mounted in the car.... time will tell.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I like this new direction! I think the turbo is a much better fit for a Z, you need the top end more than down low with these light cars. Same reason I like the Voodoo idea so much. And, I know this guy with a tig that can help out on those fabbed parts...

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I'm actually pretty excited about it as well, been looking into twins in the GT3582 range or a single 76mm setup.  If I've done my math right I should be moving about 76.7lbs/min of air given 85% VE, 20PSI of boost and 6500 RPM redline.   I'm hoping to get things figured out to where it'll still have a good punch without a ton of lag but let the car start moving before it just spins the tires to no end.  We'll see how it goes. 

 

Speaking of that TIG welder I've already drawn up the pieces to adapt an LS1 cable operated throttle body to the aluminum manifold I have, thinking about the Holley Sniper 92mm or 102mm.  They look fairly simple and for about $175 they are definitely a good price compared to a Nick Williams or FAST piece, just haven't seen any real feedback on them, one comment on LS1Tech was that they mirrored some of the cheaper Chinese pieces for quality.  I'll see once I have it all figured out, had to spend a little of my Z money on other ventures today so I'm back to saving mode again, hopefully my buddy that's coming by later this week will have good news on wiring my garage up for 240v.  That would be a huge step forward for me and really open up the possibilities of getting some progress made on my chassis

 

I'm also waiting to here back from a shop that has a Diamond racing piston set all designed and proofed in a formula drift car at 9000+ RPM. Engine makes 800hp NA and is taking a 400 hit of NOS on top of that in the same block I am using.  They are running a JE piston this year according to a promotional video, but the last couple years it's been diamond racing pistons and the machinist really likes the way they seal and hold up better than the JEs.   He said they are modifying LS1 6.125" rods for a better rod to stroke ratio, using a stock stroke billet crankshaft, and a 3.875" bore for better ring selection in their setup.  The cams, heads and timing chain setup are really involved though, cams are a custom JWT set that I could get for the same price they are paying pretty easily ($1200), but the whole timing chain setup is a Menard's design with fixed tensioners, custom guides and some other tweaks.  Talking with a former Nissan racing team development guy none of the valve train would be good for a street car that sees varied RPM and isn't at WOT all the time, there's no real way to react to sudden rpm changes and chain slack in their setup.

 

 

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I'm headed into wiring mode which means better pricing for that stuff. I'll have more free time if I can get this blasted house on track.

 

Twins might package up better. Things are pretty tight down in that tunnel. I'm worried about just the T56 Magnum and two exhaust pipes let alone turbos! Plenty of room up front for intercoolers, etc. What power level are you thinking? It could get crazy in a hurry with a little adjustment to the wastegate.

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  • 3 months later...

Build notes and rough math for my future reference:

 

1. Found out the Titan/Armada bellhousing is ~7.250" (184.15mm) from transmission mating surface to engine mating surface.

 

2. VK56DE crankshaft protrudes into the bellhousing 19.25mm

 

3. 2000 f-body T56 input shaft measures 135.35mm from bellhousing surface to where the pilot bearing meets up with the splines

 

4. So taking the bellhousing depth minus the effective transmission input shaft length I get:

 

184.15mm - 135.35 = 48.8mm

 

Now minus the crankshaft protrusion:

 

48.8mm - 19.25mm = 29.55mm or 1.163"

 

That means I have 29.55mm of space to incorporate a button clutch of some sort of the vk56 flexplate inorder to retain my factory CAS sensor mounting and trigger wheel.

 

Need to find out more info on the retro t56 input shaft that is supposed to be longer for the older Muncie/T10 transmission swaps.

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So machined plate between the bell and trans? If so that will need to be factored in. Pilot bushing/bearing is usually pretty simple to adapt. Often you can mix and match pressure plate and disc to get the correct bolt pattern and splines. Slave will probably be T56 internal and an adjustable height would be nice or we can add spacers if necessary. All doable. We just need to make sure that transmission is exactly concentric with the engine.

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Yeah that's the thought process right now. I called clutch Masters because they've done a few vk56 setups for the cd009 with their 8.5" twin disc and a button on the flex plate but they want $2700. I know I can do better than that if I put some thought into it and get a bellhousing. I leave for a month this weekend though so it'll be on the back burner again until and the 4th of July. Hopefully I can get a bell ordered though and have it here when I come home. Hopefully I can get a rotisserie done at that time as well, really been pushing to get excess crap out of the garage so I can get the car in the air

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And this is on the way, should get here while I'm gone to school and be waiting when I return. If the transmission holes are evenly spaced it will make centering and lining up the input shaft on the adapter plate so much easier.

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Edited by 1969honda
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So I'm kind of bouncing around on focus right now, but I'm also away from the car so my mind is wandering. I've got the bellhousing ordered for the transmission, feelers out on a couple different flywheel clutch combos, most the parts and design figured out for a rotisserie and today I think I finalized plans for the oil pan sump and pickup.

 

I got most of a baffle plate to keep oil in the sump figured out before leaving home today (sorry forgot to take picks of the C.A.D. template), and I sent 440source an email about a couple pickup screen boxes they make. The attached picture shows two options they offer at very reasonable prices. If the steel one will fit in the space I measured I should be able to modify the pickup and use a combination of AN fittings and 3/4" tubing to hook it all together. This should allow me to ditch the stock lower steel oil pan, gain about 3-4" ground clearance, and put some baffles around the pickup.

 

The attached oil pan photos are not mine but show pretty well what I'm dealing with. The last picture shows the stock cast-in pick up tube from the under side of the pan, it actually runs all the way to the back of the block and is closed off on both ends with freezer plugs.

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The clutch/flywheel/adapter are going to take some more thought, math, planning but we'll get there. Front transmission pattern isn't going to make life easy but we'll sort it out. Between your bell, my bell and the two transmissions we'll have most of what we need for a billet adapter plate I need to get an engine here to mock stuff up. Might just need to find a Coyote for now as I've already got parts for it and the Voodoo will drop right in later. Should be able to sell the Coyote for a profit later anyway. That would give us the last of the reference data.

 

We have plenty of rear end stuff to occupy all the time we have at this point. Still need two rotisseries. Hopefully those books have all kinds of suspension and chassis ideas swimming in your head.

 

The oil pickup is interesting. As long as you have enough capacity and a good place to draw from it should work well. Should be a bit cheaper than the low profile steel pan I've got to buy and you get to keep the structural aluminum part.

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