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HybridZ

Wolfcreek issues?


ktown z

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Pretty sure.  Take the shaft off on the side with less space, driver's side (I think), and run it.  If the noise goes away, the passenger side was binding.

 

Worst case, the car doesn't go anywhere.

It's a "limited" slip. You'd need a locker or a spool to drive without the CV in.

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Raise the car until the rear lower control arms are pointing down and you can feel the shaft play mentioned above on both CV shafts. Do a test drive. If the noise goes away the problem is CV shaft binding most likely on the driver's side. You will have to shorten the shaft or run your car at a higher ride height.

 I thought that jmortensen had shown that maximum shaft compression was with the car raised?  Maximum droop?  Took me a while to figure out how it could be, but it seems possible now that I know (the axle flange does not follow the same arc as the control arm).  He actually measured it so had real numbers.  Raising the car should increase binding.

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It's a "limited" slip. You'd need a locker or a spool to drive without the CV in.

 I thought that the clutch-type didn't need the other axle to generate torque.  It's generated from the diff housing to the axle through the clutch.  Pretty sure that I have read of people being glad that they had the diff when they broke an axle because they could still get the car on to the trailer.  Various descriptions around the internet about how the Torsen type has the one wheel-in-the air problem (tap the brakes).  Nobody mentions that with the clutch type.

 

Always looking to learn something.  Trying to keep my head straight.

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There is some preload on the clutches, but unless that thing is jammed up really tight, it's just going to spin one tire (even if they call it "100% lock" and any attempt to drive like that will just wear the clutches). The difference between clutch and helical is that most helicals lose any ability to lock the tires together as soon as one loses traction. You don't hear many stories about clutch diffs lifting a tire, spinning that tire up, then snapping the axle when it comes down, but the fact that they don't instantly spin up doesn't mean that you can drive with the axle removed.

 

You are correct that the droop is where the the axles are shortest. 

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Well, with the halfshafts the axles were the shortest on the driver's side at full compression with a R200 install.  That induces the bind issue I've been talking about for 10 years.  The halfshafts are longer in droop.  I have never seen the rear suspension droop limited by either halfshafts or CV shafts.

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So I raised the car 2 more inches about all it can be raised. Then I took her for a spin. I drove slow and figure 8's through a parking lot and was able to reproduce the noise. The clunking and popping was present in the turns and initial straights just at less than 30mph and way more noticeable at a creep. I believe it is not the cv's and im just not used to the clsd. I have ordered a bottle of friction modifyer and will see if it makes a difference. I will keep you posted and THANKS for the support. Also, when I do another color change on the car, I am gonna pull the motor. While it's out, i will probably send the tranny out to get rebuilt and new seals. Is the z31 transmission rebuilt kit the same as an rb25det?

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I have added 1.5 bottles of friction modifyer to the diff and did figure 8's for about 5 mins. The loud clunking and popping has reduced significantly. I have not driven for extended periods but I believe this has fixed the problem. I wanted to say thanks again for the support.

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