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trackzpeed

LS1 240 mounts (facts not opinion???)

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Time for another update of the "facts" ....

 

JCI- Way more positive feedback than not.... Difficult fitment seems to related more to a tired Z-car than kit quality. Works with JTR headers and low mount alternator location. Very complete kit with a build manual (although some feel manual is not that great) and most of the goodies to get your LS1 Z on the road. A proven kit all in all.

 

Dingo- Does work with JTR headers and no change to steering rod.... Trans mount is a pick of everyone else. Uses stock Z mount locations for good support but needs a high mount alternator bracket to work.... Dingo, speedway, and others sell the bracket for less that $200... Ive also posted a link to "nasty z28" for a cheap high mount alternative. Easy motor mount install but after that your on your own to figure out the rest. With the Hybrid community, it is very doable.

 

CXR- I have a complete build with this kit in a 240z, and it was a pretty easy journey for me with hand tools in my garage.... Measure 10X and install once. check my build log for more info. CX keeps adding to their kit for completeness.... Currently with all mounts and full exhaust with LT headers. I am using a low mount alternator without clearance issues. I chose a custom Y back 3inch exhaust.... saved some $ and had my choice of muffler. Rumor has it that CX is working on a driveline as well for their kit, I cut down my aluminum Camaro shaft . I believe you could use the Dingo mounts with CXR headers. The headers are angled to work with their Y pipe so take that into consideration if you buy those alone.

 

Hawks- Only works with their LT headers from what I can tell....... They offer a trans mount that welds in versus all the other bolt ins... I love to have some feedback from a completed and running build.

 

Hokes performance: beautiful stuff.... Don't know of any complete builds or cost, but worth looking into if your serious about your car. According to his site, the Cxr long tube headers work with his mount kit.

 

DIY- Cheap and easy but you need to dial in placement. I'm leery of Z frame unibody strength not tied to a crossbar. Quite a few have been done with success so I would love to hear some feedback from hard driver / track guys.

 

Thanks to all for the input. Jim (trackzpeed)

Edited by trackzpeed

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Dingo works CXRacing headers, also works with their low mount alternator setup. Would most likely work with stock low mount setup as their stuff puts it in the same location but I cannot say 100%.

 

If you do use the low mount alternator setup with the dingo mounts, you lose about 1/2" to 1/4" of travel with positioning the engine. You lose about 1" if you keep the stock F-body alternator with that big plastic snorkel on the back. You lose less if you use an alternator off of another vehicle without the big snorkel. I think I got one from a late model 4.3L engine. Utilizes the same casing and rear mounting tab but with a flat back casing.

 

If you max out the mounts all the way back, the mount hits the charging post on the alternator. No good. I picked up a charging post extension off of a Ford alternator that brings the charging stud off to the side of the alternator. Still a tight fit, but better than before.

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It's been a awhile since I checked this thread...... A quick update for CXR mounts. There have been a few comments/concerns/observations about how "high" the CXR mounts place the motor. I did some research and it does in fact appear that these mounts sit higher than most everything out there from what I can tell, which will raise the cars CG, traditionally declining the handling. The trade off is better oil pan clearance, good angulation of motor to drive line..... And I read from the monster miata crowd the LS likes a few degrees tilt in the back for oiling issues (need to research that more to be honest). I just installed my TTT triangulated strut brace (made for straight six) and I have tons of clearance..... Indicating that my LS on CXR mounts still sits lower than stock for better CG than stock, with continued pan clearance, and angulation. I'm not endorsing one kit over another, just posting my results to help future swappers make an informed choice. My .02. Jimpost-38304-0-68476500-1469287880_thumb.jpg

Edited by trackzpeed

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I can add a little to the CX thread. I have no issue with the kits other than the height makes it a little difficult to fit a 4L80e in the trans tunnel of a 240z. The kits fits well and is constructed well. My Transmission mount was welded slightly crooked and after sending in a few emails CX racing, they never answered. I called and left two messages, again, no returned calls. I'm going auto so it doesn't matter much to me other than the monetary loss.

 

Here is a few picture of the clearance. Oil pan is the C5 batwing which is the shallowest of pans out there.It sits about 1" above the cross member. Keep in mind the engine is slightly tipped back because the trans is out currently.

 

20160611_221743_zpsjebxwlpg.jpg

 

20161009_215938_zpsatedz6xi.jpg

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Im doing a 2005 5.3 swap in my early 260z and using dirty dingo mounts and a "muscle car oil pan kit" (summit pn NAL-19212593) which was supposed to be similar to the LS1 oil pan. We are currently sittin on the steering rack with the mounts adjusted to their highest points. Im curious as to how people have altered their steering racks to work with these mounts because I have also heard of people having to mess with the rack to fit it in while others don't, although I cant find anything on it currently :mellow:

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The350Z - if you have the right engine mounts and oil pan you don't have to modify your steering rack. Get the right parts and you'll be fine. Don't get caught on the "modification" spiral where one bad part/decision leads to another which leads to another which.......

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Messaged summit before purchase to see about this pan kit compared to the F body* pan in terms of size and fitment and was told it was actually a bit smaller. Also with a little adjusting and a lot more daylight and patience it fits fine and I clear the the rack no problem. Have to check pan to ground clearance (on jack stands) because my car is lowered.. Still a slow budget minded build at this point. Pretty close to running, setting up my fuel cell and lines soon and with a little more wiring itll fire up!

Edited by the350z

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I can add a little to the CX thread. I have no issue with the kits other than the height makes it a little difficult to fit a 4L80e in the trans tunnel of a 240z. The kits fits well and is constructed well. My Transmission mount was welded slightly crooked and after sending in a few emails CX racing, they never answered. I called and left two messages, again, no returned calls. I'm going auto so it doesn't matter much to me other than the monetary loss.

 

Here is a few picture of the clearance. Oil pan is the C5 batwing which is the shallowest of pans out there.It sits about 1" above the cross member. Keep in mind the engine is slightly tipped back because the trans is out currently.

 

20160611_221743_zpsjebxwlpg.jpg

 

20161009_215938_zpsatedz6xi.jpg

 

What pinion angle did you come up with when installing the 4L80E? Just curious as I am trying to get mine dialed in because I am tired of listening to the rear end whine/howl!

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What pinion angle did you come up with when installing the 4L80E? Just curious as I am trying to get mine dialed in because I am tired of listening to the rear end whine/howl!

You have your causes and effects mixed up.  The wrong pinion angle can cause propeller shaft vibration, not diff noise.  

 

Diff noise is mostly inherent to the R200 design, and isolated from the cabin by mounting it properly.

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Anyone want to add new and updated info to this list?   After I completed my swap, it's too hard to keep up with all of the changes out there, but this list can still be helpful for many 

JCI- Way more positive feedback than not.... Difficult fitment seems to related more to a tired Z-car than kit quality. Works with JTR headers and low mount alternator location. Very complete kit with a build manual (although some feel manual is not that great) and most of the goodies to get your LS1 Z on the road. A proven kit all in all.

 

Dingo- Does work with JTR and CX headers and no change to steering rod.... Trans mount is a pick of everyone else. Uses stock Z mount locations for good support but needs a high mount alternator bracket to work.... Dingo, speedway, and others sell the bracket for less that $200... Ive also posted a link to "nasty z28" for a cheap high mount alternative. Easy motor mount install but after that your on your own to figure out the rest. With the Hybrid community, it is very doable. 

 

CXR- I have a complete build with this kit in a 240z, and it was a pretty easy journey for me with hand tools in my garage.... Measure 10X and install once. check my build log for more info. CX keeps adding to their kit for completeness.... Currently with all mounts and full exhaust with LT headers. I am using a low mount alternator without clearance issues. I chose a custom Y back 3inch exhaust.... saved some $ and had my choice of muffler. Rumor has it that CX is working on a driveline as well for their kit, I cut down my aluminum Camaro shaft . The headers are angled to work with their Y pipe so take that into consideration if you buy those alone. 

 

Hawks- Only works with their LT headers from what I can tell....... They offer a trans mount that welds in versus all the other bolt ins... I love to have some feedback from a completed and running build.

 

Hokes performance: beautiful stuff.... Don't know of any complete builds or cost, but worth looking into if your serious about your car. According to his site, the Cxr long tube headers work with his mount kit.

 

DIY- Cheap and easy but you need to dial in placement. I'm leery of Z frame unibody strength not tied to a crossbar. Quite a few have been done with success so I would love to hear some feedback from hard driver / track guys.

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I am installing a LS2 with the Hoke performance kit. So far the quality is top notch. I would say more expense then the other kits but you get what you pay for. I will post as many pictures as possible and post any issues I run into. The customer service from Austin is the best.

Pete

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