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I  have a 1jzgte vvvti is out of a toyota chaser and when I bought the motor and R154 that came with it it did not have a fuse box.  The harness is cut like you can see in the pictures.  What do I do in terms of fusing this thing?  I have seen the other threads with the pinouts and what each wire does however I don't know what fuse boxes will work.  Luckily I have the igniter.  I'm installing the motor in a 1972 Datsun 240z.  Fuses and relays are what is keeping me from finishing this thing.  Help if you can.  Thanks.

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Checker or Auto zone used to sell the larger push in style spade fuse box. You just run a switched wire or battery power wire to the large terminal on the box. This makes each fused circuit you add to that box, switched on with the ingition key. I added 2 of those style boxes for my Megasquirt wiring. They cost like $10 bucks each. Will be right were the trailer lights and wiring aisle is.

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Unless you plan on swapping the entire harness for an uncut one, or find a fuse box with a pigtail that you can connect back to it (which would give you a ton of fuses and relays that you actually won't be using) your option is as dexter says and going for a generic fuse panel and possibly relay combo.

 

Find the wires you need for the swap (switched power, main power, fuel pump etc) and wire it up to control each of those. 

 

Your alternative option is to order a new harness or a modified harness, I believe the seller of swap harnesses made a post couple of threads down.

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Thanks for the input guys.  I really appreciate it.  Does anyone know if I could use a Supra or SC300 fuse box and just connect it up.  Obviously I won't be using everything on the box but in terms of ignition and engine stuff it might work?

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The SC300 available here had a 2jz i think. I am not sure you would be so lucky to have all the wires match up. You can see if the SC300 shares the same part number but that's really unlikely. Pull out some ECU pinouts and find out what you need. Takes less then an hour, and a motor doesn't need a lot to run actually.

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It acts as a stop for the throttle body plate if memory serves, it has a fitting for what I assume is a either a vacuum or pressure source and a ram that that controls the position or stop point of the throttle. I don't use mine, but I'm not very stock anymore. If you are stock and using stock equipment I wouldn't see why you would forgo it other then laziness or simplification.

 

This no longer retains to the wiring issues as your title states, maybe a generic build thread is in order where you can ask questions such as this.

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