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Slow Build 240Z LS1/MN12 - Build Thread


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  • 5 months later...
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Still plugging away at this. Took some time off to waste a bunch of time playing Call of Duty but back at the car again. Scratched a couple bald spots getting the car wired but it’s in and tested. Finishing that hopefully this weekend. Picked up my new driveshaft this afternoon, checked it for fit and found I’ll need to remove that ashtray recess in the tunnel.

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  • 6 months later...

Got some seats. Put them in the car, only to realize the shifter is out reach. My trans is out of a GTO, which originally had an offset shifter which puts the stick about 3" further back. Of course, when I rebuilt my trans, I set it up to use an F-body shifter. Now I’ll have to get back into the trans to change the offset lever back to the original, so I can put the GTO shifter back on. I just hope I don’t have to pull the trans to do it. But that 3" feels like it’ll put the stick shift in a pretty comfortable position.

 

Been working on the exhaust. Nearly done, just need to fabricate up one more mount. Then to finish up the wiring, add fluids and turn the key.

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I expected the F-Body shifter would fit through the factory 240z hole, which was the main reason I converted to the f-body shifter. But it didn't. I had to cut the tunnel and have already butchered up my center console as well.

 

The MGW short shifter I have currently installed only comes with one straight arm, and they don't make a jogged one. I don't have a stock f-body shifter either, though I know they can be had for cheap. I do have the the stock GTO shifter though, so as long I can switch out that offset lever in the trans with out having the take the trans out of the car, I think I''ll be golden. I put the f-body offset lever in there myself when i was rebuilding the trans, I just don't remember if had to slide back the trans tailpiece when I did it.

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If you have to move the shifter 3.5 inches your engine is way forward of where mine is.  No idea why.  PS I have the complete engine and trans from 04 GTO.  Swapped shifters, oil pan and alternator to F body.  But I made sure the GTO stuff for sure would not fit first.  Just my experience on only one car, I am no expert. HTH,  Richard. 

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  • 3 months later...
On 2/17/2019 at 5:46 AM, Richard Oben said:

If you have to move the shifter 3.5 inches your engine is way forward of where mine is.  No idea why.  PS I have the complete engine and trans from 04 GTO.  Swapped shifters, oil pan and alternator to F body.  But I made sure the GTO stuff for sure would not fit first.  Just my experience on only one car, I am no expert. HTH,  Richard. 

I used the JCI Kit, which I believe is not the same as you used. Still seems odd, but is is what it is. I haven’t done anything about it yet, working in other things, but I do have the old GTO shifter and plan to make that switch. 

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I’ve been trying to tie up the rest of the wiring around the car. Wondering that locations others have come up with for the main body/frame ground location. I want a good solid ground but don’t want to grind paint off and have it rust later. Like many things, I’m likely over thinking this. 

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  • 2 months later...

Got started, though it runs terribly. A couple weeks back I tried to start it but no go. No power to the fuel pump, which I traced to no power to the pcm, which turned out to be a blown fuse in the engine bay relay panel. Once I got power to the fuel pump, it still wouldn’t start, which turned out to be a bad fuel pump. Dropped the tank last night put the new fuel pump module in. Now it starts right up, but idles horribly and dies. Also has a noise that sounds like pulleys rubbing that I have yet to track down. Posted on ls1tech to see if I can get some direction there. Not sure where to start, but I ordered an OBD2 scanner, and some new plugs. The way it surges, it seems like it doesn’t have enough gas.

 

https://youtu.be/z89RhxHcLBQ

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I can help with part of the problem. Im not sure about the squealing pulley but I believe i know whats going on with your fuel system.

I ran into a similar issue a few years back with my LS swap. I did the Camaro fuel tank and pump and then used a Corvette fuel fillter/ regulator. I found out that the Camaro fuel pump had a built in regulator and when you double stack regulators you get half the gas (or maybe it was double, its been a few years).

I ended up pulling the Camaro fuel pump out and bypassing the regulator (should be on the return line). The other option is to run a "U" from the Camaro fuel pump output to the Camaro fuel pump return and the "T" off of it somewhere along the "U" bend. that line (the "T") would then run forward to your fuel rail.


The third option is depending on your fuel rail to run a fuel line and a return line all the way to the fuel rail.

 

I hope that all makes sense. If not ill try to better explain it. At the end of the day, if you stick a fuel pressure gauge on the rail, you will see what im talking about, you will be way off the 56ish PSI that your supposed to have.

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Thanks for the advice. I wish it were that simple. I did have it plumbed with the corvette filter/regulator originally but figured out what your talking about and reconfigured it. I am retaining the regulator in the fuel module and using a regular straight filter. I have a tee right before the filter and go back to the return line. This didn’t make much sense to me but I understand now that the regulator is actually on the return line on the module so anything over the 58psi blows through. 

 

I did order a fuel pressure gauge and should be able to put it in tomorrow, depending on when the Amazon truck shows up. Maybe putting the return loop after the filter would ensure I’m not losing any pressure to the filter. 

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Success. Or at least a ton better. I didn’t have anything on the vacuum port at the rear of the intake, below the MAP sensor. Was throwing code P0108 which is the MAP sensor circuit so I put my finger over that port and it smoothed out. 

 

https://youtu.be/-lIyYaD96pE

 

I believe my egr cover is leaking a lot of air in, which is causing the big air noise in that area and likely the still rough idle. Increasing throttle is slow and stumbles a little still, which would also make sense if a leaking egr cover. 

 

But overall I’m pretty darn thrilled, and have some new motivation to get her on the road. Still a long way to go for that but the light is bright at the end of the tunnel. 

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Looking through my build thread here, it’s looks like I have added much of what I’ve been doing. Thought I’d toss up a pic of my exhaust. It’s dual 2.5” to a single 3” to a single Spintech muffler. Now that it’s running I’m pretty happy with how it sounds. 

 

Also did a wiper motor upgrade. And did some traveling in Europe with the family as well as some camping trips in the vintage trailer. 

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  • 1 year later...

Funny. When 2020 went to hell, I thought I’d at least get a lot done on the car. But no. Instead I just spent all my spare time playing Warzone, a video game. I haven’t touched the car in over a year, but 3 days ago I decided to get back at it. Driver side rear fender now cut and welded for ZG flare. Feels good to be back at it. Of course I’m also tasked with some big home improvement projects over the summer, but hoping to get some momentum picked up on the project. Would like to get it off to paint soon. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Good to here.  These car builds take an enormous amount of time and life does/will demand time spent else where.  I had some good momentum but stalled as of late with a house remodel.  As soon as I get back into the house will answer the 280Z longing to be finished.

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