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grannyknot

///M powered Z

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I could hear the relief and excitement in your voice. My prototype head fired right off and it is quite the shock. I almost didn't know what to do next because I wasn't expecting it. 

 

Great work. And it sounds really good. You must be one happy camper.

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Thanks guys, appreciate it, yes it was a shock when it fired up, I stood there like an idiot then started checking for leaks.  I fixed the oil cooler line today and started it up again to let the engine get hot enough to test the electric fan programing then one of the coolant hoses I had forgot to tighten fully blew open.  1/2 gallon of coolant on the floor naturally,  fixed that and jumped in to take it for a spin but the Datsun clutch M/C is just shy of enough displacement for the BMW slave cylinder so need to dig through the shelves to see if I have a 7/8" M/C kicking around.

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4 minutes ago, grannyknot said:

but the Datsun clutch M/C is just shy of enough displacement for the BMW slave cylinder so need to dig through the shelves to see if I have a 7/8" M/C kicking around.

 

Curious if you know the diameter of the BMW slave cylinder.  There have been quite a few questions lately about making the clutch work after an engine swap.

 

Seems like the manufacturers would just match the cylinders and do the geometry at the pedal and fork to get travel, but who knows.

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23 hours ago, NewZed said:

 

Curious if you know the diameter of the BMW slave cylinder.  There have been quite a few questions lately about making the clutch work after an engine swap.

 

Seems like the manufacturers would just match the cylinders and do the geometry at the pedal and fork to get travel, but who knows.

From the outside the BMW MC and slave are almost identical shape and size and if anything the 7/8" Tilton MC that I put in today should be way more than enough but my foot is still going to the floor with no more resistance than the return spring.

I have bled almost a litre of fluid through it in both directions, normally and with a big syringe from the bottom, the slave is in good working order but I have ordered a new one just in case.

At this point I can only think that maybe the clutch fork got misaligned during installation although I was very careful at the time to make sure that didn't happen. If that is the case then I'll have to drop the trans which is something I really don't want to get into.

At least the variable valve timing oil pressure is right where it should be.

 

 

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I thought you had the Nissan master working the BMW slave.

 

One way to check for air or leaking seals is to compare the distance the master cylinder rod travels to the distance the slave rod moves.  If the cylinders are the same the distance should be the same, of course.  Then you can also watch the fork to see if it is getting full movement.  If everything is maxed out then maybe the Nissan clutch pedal just doesn't more the master rod as far.  So a bigger master would make sense then.

 

Just thinking.  I had a slave cylinder that only moved about 1/2 the distance it should.  It was leaking in to the boot.  If a person just eyeballed it they'd see it move but it wasn't moving far enough.  Had to measure.

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For what it's worth I used a 1" MC in my S-52 conversion. It was pretty stiff but worked. I *think* a 7/8" would be large enough to function (about 3/4 the fluid volume of a 1") and should be much more pleasant.

 

Your conversion looks great, by the way!

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3 hours ago, NewZed said:

I thought you had the Nissan master working the BMW slave.

I did, I was using a 3/4" Nissan clutch MC with the S38 engine and G280 trans with no problems so I thought it would work for the G420 trans, but now I have installed the 7/8" MC and I still can get it into gear. That's a good idea, I'll drop the slave tomorrow and do some measuring of the stroke.

@RTz, thanks Ron, I appreciate it.

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I once came across an issue where I wasn’t getting enough engagement. It ended up being when I had disassembled the clutch slave (for fun), the piston was pushed too far in and the fluid inlet was not positioned correctly. I forget the exact configuration, but it still moved but would not get the entire range of motion. Fluid was getting sent to a wrong oriface. It took 3 very experienced minds to figure out the issue (well 2, as one of them was me). Ha.

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17 hours ago, RTz said:

For what it's worth I used a 1" MC in my S-52 conversion. It was pretty stiff but worked. I *think* a 7/8" would be large enough to function (about 3/4 the fluid volume of a 1") and should be much more pleasant.

 

Your conversion looks great, by the way!

 

You're back!  There was a Tony D drive-by about a week ago...

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You got back in to check the clutch, had a concerned look on your face for a while, then got out without saying "hooray, it works".  If a person only watched the video they wouldn't know if it actually worked.

 

When is the driving video?

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Oh I get it, the concerned look was because I had no drive shaft on at the time so when I put it in gear and let off the clutch it didn't feel like anything happened but it was just because it was free spinning with no load.

I backed it out of the garage yesterday to go on my first drive, checked everything over one more time and noticed the other oil cooler line had a fast leak:fmad:  But it's my fault, am using compression fittings to join up the stock cooler aluminum tubes to AN fittings and hose and the compression ring was little too close to a bend in the pipe.

So I've ordered a new length of hose so I can make a connection farther up the tube,  it's all the little stuff now that's stopping me.

The friggn Castrol 10w60 is so expensive I don't want to loose another drop.

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