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Hey man, I stumbled across this thread looking for a wiring diagram for the same exact model haha. I just put myself in the same hole as you, only I have way more work ahead of me bringing mine back. I work for a restoration shop in New Jersey, hopefully this will be helpful to you.

Priming your parts after bodywork and letting them sit for a while isn't a bad thing. Once you do your bodywork, treat any bare metal surfaces with some sort of metal pretreatment wipe. It will cause a chemical reaction on the surface to really help corrosion resistance. Then you can shoot some high build primer on, couple coats, then your good to go. Letting the parts sit in primer for a bit will let the primer really sink in to the bodywork. As long as they are kept somewhere dry, you'll be fine. Then you won't have to worry about any possible soaking show through the clear coat later on. Hope that helps. Good luck.

 

Justin

P.s. I suppose this is can also serve as my introduction post hahaha.

Edited by tarmac attack
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With midterms about finished, I'm hoping to spend more time with the Z. Last night I whipped up a couple brackets to be bolted onto the strut towers to support the car while we flip it upside-down. I might end up using them to mount the rotisserie instead of the bumper brackets (they're just a little bit rotten)

 

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Priming your parts after bodywork and letting them sit for a while isn't a bad thing. Once you do your bodywork, treat any bare metal surfaces with some sort of metal pretreatment wipe. It will cause a chemical reaction on the surface to really help corrosion resistance. Then you can shoot some high build primer on, couple coats, then your good to go. Letting the parts sit in primer for a bit will let the primer really sink in to the bodywork. As long as they are kept somewhere dry, you'll be fine. Then you won't have to worry about any possible soaking show through the clear coat later on.

Thanks Justin, it's definitely good to have a professional opinion on this. When I get around to sandblasting it, I'll do a coat of primer to prevent the rest of the car from disappearing while I'm trying to fix what's already gone. Would you recommend an epoxy primer for this kind of application?

 

Eric

Edited by Eric Z
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Thanks Justin, it's definitely good to have a professional opinion on this. When I get around to sandblasting it, I'll do a coat of primer to prevent the rest of the car from disappearing while I'm trying to fix what's already gone. Would you recommend an epoxy primer for this kind of application?

 

Eric

Yup. Shoot it with epoxy and that'll keep everything sealed up as you make your body repairs.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks tamarac attack, I'll definitely be doing that.

 

The 260 is up on the rotisserie finally. We ended up making one with some jacks I found lying around on either end for vertical adjustment. The car is supported by the strut towers instead of bumper brackets like usual, should give more stability while I'm cutting out the frame. It's got wheels on one end, and a hitch for the forklift on the other - works like a charm for moving the car between shops for working and storage. I'll be sandblasting her this coming weekend hopefully, and finally see exactly what kind of rust issues I've got to deal with - pretty excited.

 

post-47042-0-44219000-1436890565_thumb.jpg post-47042-0-40070400-1436890630_thumb.jpg

 

Eric

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Hey, can you tell me more about that crank on your rotisserie? I've been looking for something like that.

 

The crank on either side is just to lift the jack up and down, they've got about a foot of travel. It should give enough flexibility to put the car at a comfortable working height. To spin it, I have a 1/2" bolt set screw on each side that just needs to be loosened, and then cranked tight to prevent the car from moving. The car rotates easily by hand as the spin axis is [as close as I could get] to the center of gravity of the car.

Edited by Eric Z
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  • 4 weeks later...

New update here:

 

It's been a few weeks, things have been busy, but some progress has been made. This past weekend we sand/media blasted the under-body and engine bay. Discovered a few rusty areas that more closely resemble a certain holey cheese than a car, but nothing that's not fixable with a bit of patience. We are using an industrial grade sandblaster, and are a bit afraid it will damage the body panels if we hit them too hard. The plan is to chemically strip the rest of the paint, then hit the rusty areas with a finer sandblaster - better safe than sorry.

 

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We did try to strip the exterior paint with crushed walnut media, but it wasn't hard enough to eat through the primer, just the paint... so we scratched that idea.

 

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Picked up some epoxy primer from a bodyshop buddy of mine, I was assured this is the best stuff. The writing on the side seems to verify that haha.

 

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On a sidenote, I've got a few plans for the steering wheel. The stock one wasn't in the best condition, and I've always loved the look of wood steering wheels, so I think I'll attempt at a steering wheel build as well - I want it to be some blend of classic with a sporty vibe, I haven't seen anything out there quite how I would like it. Below is a first iteration CAD model, a 3 piece sandwich reusing the stock spokes and metal ring. Let me know what you think!

 

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I'll throw a few pics up of the sandbalsted car later so you guys can see what kind of rust issues I get to deal with, I could use a little sympathy haha.

 

Eric

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