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Coilover oops - need to raise rear - help?


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So I screwed up a bit. I sectioned the rear strut tubes to fit a front length strut when I did my coils, and now it sits too low for me up in Massachusetts. Shes gotta go back up about an inch. Rear is at max height in this picture (also I put my flares a bit lower than I should which is making it a bit worse tbh. Interestingly I sectioned the fronts as well but they're just fine, I can adjust up and down in a reasonable rang.

 

https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/TpWTJDqaS5v8cgWxqNtTYEYAYeXtfi3iBrNWuicWbcA?ref_=cd_share_link_copy

 

I see my options as the following (flames accepted.):

 

1. Get original length shocks and either refab the rear or find new rear strut tubes to fab off. Lots of work, don't have parts, lots of money. Will probably do this in the winter, but I'd like to get it on the road for the rest of the summer as its the end of a 2 year project.

 

2. Does there exist a spacer I could run for the top? Would only have to be an inch. Something like this but that fits my the Z (feel free to laugh). http://www.amazon.com/MotoFab-Lifts-F150-2-5-Front-Leveling/dp/B00I5054M6/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=16GD4BS43388VDP056HV

 

3. The 280z rear insulator appears to be about an inch taller than the 240z one! Is it offset in a way such that it would actually raise my height in the rear a bit? It appears to be . . . is this hoping for too much? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/23-4382 Obviously not at that price but would it work?

 

4. I could bring the flares up a bit - I rub on the flares, not on the actual edge where I cut the fender back. Did I put the flares significantly lower than most folks do?

Thanks for reading -

 

I can't really bring the front down as I don't have a ton of oil pan clearance on the SR swap due to just how it seems to sit with the mckinny mounts. Plus I like a little bit of rake to the car, and right now its either dead even or the back might even be down a bit.

Edited by traininvain
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Try the 280 insulators. Wait to worry about moving flares till you have done that. But you need to get some 280 insulators to see where the height is gained. If above the steel plate-you are good. If below the steel plate, you gain nothing.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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Second the 280Z insulators.  A common "fix" to raise the car, or vice versa with 240Z insulators.

 

What is this Amazon Cloud Drive thing that you posted your pictures from from?  I clicked it even though it was going to try to sell me something.  Looks like a Photobucket type thing?  But much faster than Photobucket.  Does it cost something?

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Actually got it up where I wanted on the current setup, but I had to preload the springs to get the height (ie the springs are a bit compressed on the shock even when the vehicle load isn't on them). I suppose this makes the height loss when the vehicle weight compresses them less so its up a bit more. Is that a terrible idea?

 

Cloud drive comes free with Amazon Prime membership now-a-days. It has some cool features and its seems faster than photobucket plus they give you plenty of space.

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The stock springs are preloaded.  That's one of those areas of suspension that isn't often discussed.  Ideally, ride height, preload, and spring rate all converge.  More preload gives a stiffer ride over the small bumps, I believe.  Something to remember if ride has problems.  Not a suspension expert.

 

I thought Prime might be involved.  Oh well.  Looks promising, your pictures came up full-size, pretty quickly.

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Thank you for the answer John! I guess I'll stay where it is . . . Thanks for the ofer TeamZ, don't toss them out just yet!

 

On a side note I went with 175 front / 200 rear springs with the ground controls and they seem a bit on the stiff side to me in a quick ride around. Next teir down maintaining about the same front / rear ratio would be to get a set of 160's for the front and move the 175's to the rear. Is that too soft? 

 

No track work, just built it to enjoy around town and such.

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Thank you for the answer John! I guess I'll stay where it is . . . Thanks for the ofer TeamZ, don't toss them out just yet!

 

On a side note I went with 175 front / 200 rear springs with the ground controls and they seem a bit on the stiff side to me in a quick ride around. Next teir down maintaining about the same front / rear ratio would be to get a set of 160's for the front and move the 175's to the rear. Is that too soft? 

 

No track work, just built it to enjoy around town and such.

 

 

Oh, no worries! They'll just be sitting on the bench in the garage. If you ever need em, just shoot me a pm! Free.99.

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I recommend getting the thrust bearing blocks that some companies like stance and fortuneauto sell separately, they replace the upper spring perch with somehting thicker...

 

The main benefit is under compression your spring will be able to rotate freely, as it wants to, and it will add about 1" of height to the mount.

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