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1972 240z 7/8ths master cylinder pushrod cavity deeper than 1980 280zx 15/16ths

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Hello, so after a semester at school I wasn't able to continue working on my car like I had wanted to, but I think I have made good progress with my brakes not wanting to act like they should.  I added an adjustable wilwood proportioning valve, deleted the block under the master cylinder that the front and rear lines go into that has the 1 wire going into it(which was an uncommon size I had to order from eBay coming from Latvia(I ordered 2 so I have a spare if anyone is interested), and then rebled everything including the master using a handheld mighty vac brand pressure bleeder (partly because I'm running out of friends that want to help rebleed the brakes for the 10th time and I was able to get some air out I believe.  I test drove the car just down the street and locked up the front tires (which are new 225s).  I just wanted to update this thread because I hate unfinished threads that never post the result.  I will be adjusting the bracket I made for the rear because the one pad is biting uneven and then possibly bleeding a little more and adjusting the prop valve for more rearward pressure.  That, as well as the inner rod in the booster may or may not be within spec but so far she is braking MUCH better than she was, there is hope for her just yet!


If you deleted the differential pressure switch, the wire going to it is no longer needed. So you ordered two wires or two differential pressure switches?

Edited by Miles
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I ordered a T Fitting for the front lines and the line going from the master and then I used a the proportioning valve as the union for the rear lines.  I can take a picture of it tomorrow.  Another member here had done this and I liked the simplicity and getting rid of older parts that could have caused the problems.  I ordered 2 of the T fittings the lines go into.  The wire is now being unused because the pressure differential switch is deleted.

Edited by ryanabab
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