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dmoralesbello

280Z Restomod Progress

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29 minutes ago, ISPKI said:

Your build is an inspiration to us all. I was wondering if you have seen the fuse blocks made by Blue Sea Systems? Reason I mention it is that I had used a fuse block similar to the one you are using and found that the prongs that hold the large blade fuses tend to loosen over time, especially when they get warm. This ended up causing a severe electrical issue and stranding me several times in my 77 280z a number of years back. I ended up replacing my cheap fuse block with their safety hub block seen here:

 

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/16/Fuse_Blocks

 

Although expensive (for a fuse block), it is much more attractive and about 100x more secure and air tight.

I can't thank you enough for not only taking the time to compliment my build but also for your fantastic suggestion. I've felt uneasy about the vulnerability to water that my current set up has. I definitely can't drive in the rain and have to take precautions when washing the car. I checked the link you supplied but can't find an obvious replacement box for the maxi fuses. Which unit did you use? Do you have any pics of your set up? I truly appreciate your help. Thank you. 

Dave

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This is the one that I purchased, I believe it was around 140$:

 

https://images.app.goo.gl/iBEyADFAo1Gsuo6m8

 

Unfortunately, I do not have a picture of it in my Z as I have it completely torn down for full restoration. Here is a picture of it in another vehicle. Definitely a bit larger than the maxi fuse blocks, but I fell it is absolutely worth finding the space for it. I can say that with my car completely coated in dust and welding soot and other grit, the inside of the fuse hub is completely dry and spotless.

 

https://images.app.goo.gl/Lzc6ncMfDwFfrZYL7

 

It does not use Maxi fuses. Rather, it uses much higher amperage rated MiDi or AMI fuses plus an array of ATC or ATO fuses. Blue Sea Systems builds oceanic equipment so they tend to prefer MiDi fuses which carry much higher amp ratings (30-200) and are bolted down via stainless steel lugs rather than spring clips. You can see that these are many times superior to Maxi fuses and readily available at most auto parts stores for only a couple dollars. The fuse chamber is sealed with an O ring in the lid. it also stores replacement fuses and the tool to pull ATC fuses inside the chamber as well as a tag so you can write which fuse does what.

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I've been running my Maxifuse 4 circuit fuse block for a few months (replacement for the old fusible link set up) and all the electricals are working well. My worry has been the fact that the set up is definitely not water resistant (much less water proof) which could be a huge problem if I get caught in rain or simply carelessly wash my car. I like the fact that it's a simple 4 circuit system with readily available fuses so I found a way to put it inside a Husky brand (Home Depot) WATERPROOF 6" small parts box ( measures exactly 6"x6"x2") made of hard clear plastic. It looks like acrylic but I'm not sure. I pulled out all the partitions, opened 4 holes (one in each angled corner) and fit them with rubber grommets for all the input and output cables. Fixed the fuse block inside with rivnuts placed on the bottom of the case (as well as the sound system fuse holder) and attached the set up back again in place of the old fusible link holders. Oh yeah, and I covered up the inverted "husky" logo with a spare 3D printed 280Z logo I had laying around. All the electricals tested well. I will run this for a while to test the durability of the clear plastic but I think it'll fare very well considering the fuse block itself was exposed to the heat of the engine bay for months without issue and this plastic seems very similar to that. I'll report long term findings if any. Pics below.

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Edited by dmoralesbello

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I was committed to updating the information pertaining the amp rating for the Maxifuses I used in the fuse block that replaced the fusible links OEM set-up

so here's the update.

I have been running this set-up (pics below) for a couple of months without issues. The consensus was to decrease the amp rating of the fuses used as much as was logically possible to test how well they protected each circuit. I've made a point of driving with as much electrical draw as possible with the AC, headlights, sound system, turn signals when necessary, hazard lights and horn when possible. The only system I haven't used simultaneously is the windshield wipers/washer because I don't take the car out in the rain. 

The circuits have been identified on the decal on the inside of the case cover.

Despite the information on the Atlantic Z page regarding amp ratings for the different color fusible links, my current  (no pun intended) set-up is much lower and, as stated previously, seems to be working well. 

Circuit 1 (ACC): 50 amps,  Circuit 2 (IGN): 30 amps,  Circuit 3 (H.L.) 25 amps,  Circuit 4 (IGN) 20 amps

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Posted (edited)
On 10/9/2018 at 5:43 PM, dmoralesbello said:

Realized that with the new fuse block setup the hood vent right above it will allow water (rain or otherwise) to come into contact with the electricals which are not as water resistant as the old fusible link arrangement. I decided to mirror the shape of the driver side hood vent liner to place under the passenger side vent. I modified it somewhat so that hot air outflow isn't restricted too much but will still prevent water from dripping directly onto the fuse block. So far I've completed the cardboard template. I will transfer that onto sheet metal soon and then paint.

 

Passenger side hood vent liner template 1.jpg

Passenger side hood vent liner template 2.jpg

Passenger side hood vent liner template 3.jpg

Passenger side hood vent liner template 4.jpg

Passenger side hood vent liner template 5.jpg

I finally got around to finishing this drip tray for the passenger side hood vent. I was fortunate to locate a used driver side drip tray on Ebay and flattened it out, reversed the form and drain slots before prepping and painting to match. The new slot configurations are mirror image of the driver side drip tray and will still allow hot air to exit the engine bay and water to drip away from the fuse block... and still looks "factory" !!

 

 

 

 

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IMG-20200305-WA0009.jpg

Edited by dmoralesbello

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I hope everyone is safe at home in these terrible times.

With  very little else to do I decided to entertain changing the original 42 year old plastic fuel injector plugs and and rubber boots, which were literally disintegrating. I received a set of new plugs and boots from the p.o. with 6" pigtails attached but I didn't want the harness to look altered so I cut down the pigtails to 1.5" and placed the welds so they would be hidden under the new boots, very close to the plugs themselves. Labeled the harness as well to prevent confusion, cleaned up the male contacts, and polished the screws. I also applied dielectric grease to the female contacts before reassembly. Started and ran the engine and all looks good!

Tip: make sure you label the wire that lies more forward in the plug before cutting them. That way you will make sure to reassemble that wire in the same position in the new plugs. Everything else is very straight forward although time consuming.

BTW, I first tried using the original connectors inside the old plugs (which were in excellent shape) but they didn't fit inside the new plugs. Had it worked I would have saved hours of work and not had to weld anything at all.

Old plugs and boots:

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New plugs, boots and refreshed harness without visible weld points:

20200418_133125.jpg.1d1560f75eb1a0b5a5dfeb466c407563.jpg

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20200418_133253.jpg.971d1b6a77dd6c5d9ec42b70f0ef19f7.jpg

 

 

 

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