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Rb20det swap into my 280z!


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Ok, so I managed to do this swap in several hours but I wanted to do some documentation so others can have some visuals on how to do stuff/can learn from my mistakes. I'll update this with some pictures periodically. 

 

Car is a '78 280z, orange as hell, and has some minor rust floating around. I've got bc coilovers waiting to go on after I get everything exactly where I want it. 

 

Where is it now? I just finished my intercooler setup last night, need to build exhaust badly so I don't get fumigated. 

 

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Will be following seeing how my son decided to claim a complete '75 280z (minus the motor) that was given to me for the cost of the tow ($25) to get it to my house last week.

 

He has a complete rb20det lined up to put in it. As soon as dad gets it stripped and in a primer stage.

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Wow, that's a good way to start! I will be posting a lot about the small detail stuff that people get sketched out by. I have a good few images of my progress, it really was quite an easy swap honestly, super easy to get it in, super easy to get it wired.

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Break down on my Datsun so far:

 

Original purchase price of my car was 2100, clean title, running but munching coolant. Built a working L28e for about 30 dollars worth of parts, it has been together for a year, fairly healthy little motor.

1125 for my set of bc coilovers

New brake master cylinder 55

Rb20det swap 1300

Compromised for a 27x9x2.5" intercooler 75

Four 90 degree 2.5" couplers 35ish bucks

Assorted tubing/t bolt clamps had around the shop

Spal 12" fan, also had laying around

650 for my crappy wheel/tire setup 

 

 

Plans/needs/stuff to do still:

 

Figure out why I don't have speedo function

Figure out a tach option 

Need to build an exhaust badly, going to be a shitty crush bent 3" tubing setup, not going for looks and 3" is overkill for my power goals anyways

Need to procure a fan controller of some sort, probably a cheap hayes adjustable controller, shouldn't be too hard to get sorted

Definitely need a new shifter boot to close off my cab

Wire up my AEM wideband, waiting on the exhaust so I know where the actual sensor will sit

Get my boost gauge plumbed

Need to find a good place to mount the aforementioned shit

Cut my suspension down and weld on my coilovers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Replace ball joints

Definitely need to order an energy master kit, I have a lot of sloppy bushings and shit, same with the steering. 

Eventually I'm going to get an aluminum radiator designed for a KA 240sx (inlet and outlet both on the pass side) 

Drill out and remove quite a few brackets and other useless shit in the engine bay.

Need to find some replacement heater hoses for the inside of my car, I would love to have heat in the winter! The heater hose routing should be easy in the bay, just cant run it in currently as one of my heater core lines leaks like mad

Planning on socketing my ecu and using my moates ostrich (eprom emulator) for tuning my stock ecu, the coding doesnt look too bad :)

Fix some assorted rust issues 

Rebuild drivers side door hinge (real saggy)

Figure out how to get my damn door locks functioning 

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A picture of what brackets in the engine bay that are not necessarily needed would be great. Since there is no engine in there at this time, it would be nice not to have to go back and remove stuff after I already had Bay finished out and engine in. Of course all this at your convenience.

Thanks

Daniel

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok, I haven't had much time to work on my care recently. The exhaust is a full 3" straight setup, it's actually quieter than my 2.25" straight to can L28 exhaust. At least in the car... 

 

Bc coilovers are on as well as the new ball joints. They seem to work well, I need to roll my rear fenders as it's tearing the pass side tire up. May need to raise the booty up a little as the exhaust scrapes where it goes under the diff as well. 

 

Basic spal/autozone thermostated fan controller work well, just a single puller, I think my thermostat is stuck open though because it'll only come up to temp completely when stationary, it's about a third of the way up the gauge driving around. 

 

Car is a ton of fun, still need to drill a hole/weld in a bung for the wideband, need to run my line for the boost gauge and build some sort of plate to mount the gauges on. 

 

Need to figure out a shift boot badly. 

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  • 4 weeks later...

Ok, small progress recently due to time constraints, rolled my rear fenders, they clear nicely now. 

 

I was running an open maf due to space constraints, I finally got around to punching a hole in my core support under my intercooler piping to run a tube out for an air filter/intake. Seems to work nicely. 

 

Wideband is in after we welded in a bung (also welded in a flex section for the exhaust as I didn't like it solid) and it's holding a steady 11:1 even with the stock 280z fuel pump haha.

Boost goes up to 14ish and tapers back to 10-11 at wot, seems pretty healthy for what it is. 

 

Did a quality rolling burnout in it the other day! 

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Thanks, it has been a very easy swap, nice and relaxed. 

I got my tach wired in with a 10k pullup resistor, fixed my drivers side door lock so the key works in the door now (coat hanger mod lol) and drove it around for an hour or so, it's a lot of fun! 

 

Car has a slight bog when it has been driving around for an extended period of time/you go wot, need to see what the wideband is doing when this happens, last time it happened i was driving into the sun and I couldnt see anything.

 

Need to figure out why my speedo doesnt work. Also all my gauge lights stopped working randomly, need to look into that.

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Check your O2 sensor.  When I used Pat's guide, I didn't have power on the O2.

 

Secondly coolant temp sensor.  

 

I couldn't get the speedo to work on my 76.  So speedhut gauges went it 

 

For the gauge lights, it's most likely the fuse.  They are the passenger side kick panel

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02 definitely works, I can watch it swing the wideband on light throttle driving (closed loop)

 

I wish I could communicate with the Ecu/see the values it sees.

 

I'm going to try again with my speedo, if all else fails I'll put the stock rb one back in and see how it scales on my stock speedo/mark it for common speeds.

 

Gauge lights turned out to be a pinched/grounding drivers side turn signal power wire, fixed that and no more popping fuses!

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Okkkkkkkkkk, picked up some goodies recently. 

 

Snagged a cheap used mishimoto s13 ka radiator I'm going to make brackets for/use so I can have non shit filled original radiator and so i can have the coolant inlet/outlet both on the pass side. 

 

Picked up stainless brake lines I need to get in.

The woman bought me a master bushing kit for my birthday so that'll keep me busy for quite awhile. 

 

Going to hopefully be picking up a set of s12+8 calipers as the car could definitely use more brakes.

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Just a hacked/flipped stock pan, lots of better options but it was the cheapest. Pat1 on here makes a bunch of really nice looking pans for the community for very reasonable amounts of money. Rear sump is a requirement, no way around it so you have to make it work

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  • 3 months later...

Fixed my brakes and shit, swapped a couple things in the bay to clean it up a little. 

Picked up a couple goodies for it!

Forward facing intake manifold (upper one, I'm ebay cheap) 

Wiring specialties ls coil pack harness/set of ls coil packs (going to swap to those and sell my splitfires) 

Couple new fans to install as pushers as I have very little room in the bay for pullers 

 

Trying to close on a house (with a shop yay!) and then I'll finally have time to pull everything apart and do what I want. Need to swap a couple injector seals out as it's leaking a little fuel out the uppers. 

 

Overall car is still doing well after 7 months of the motor being in.

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