Stock Car Mafia's '78 280z LS2 Build

[RebekahsZ]

Ok to leave zerks if they clear your wheels.

[Stock Car Mafia]

I had a buddy stop over yesterday to help me weld up some holes in the engine bay.  I just needed someone to hold a brass hammer so I didn't burn through  As we all know he was enthralled to help, lol.  I didn't snap any pictures as the welds are quite damn ugly!  

 

I also started putting the front hubs back together.

 

 

New races were pressed in both hubs.

 

 

Next I pressed the new studs in.  I got these from ZCar Depot (Item #800-535) as I wanted the stock thread pitch M12 x 1.25 mm.  They are 2 inches in length.

 

 

 

I packed the rear bearings with Redline CV-2 synthetic grease.  I loaded the hub up really well also.

 

 

Next I loaded up the bearing seal with grease and pressed those in as well.  I added some anti seize to the back of the hub to prevent the rotor from sticking when it is disassembled down the road.  I really wish I would have taped off the back portion of the hub and the inside portion where rotor sits before painting.

 

 

I took all the rotor bolts and soaked them in some degreaser.  The threads were in good shape and not rusty so I just coated them in anti seize and threaded them in.  They were tightened to 38 ft-lb.

 

 

The dust shield was added and the bolts were anti seized as well and tightened snug.

 

 

The spindle and rotor surface were cleaned with brake cleaner prior to going on.  The outer bearing was packed and slid on the spindle followed by the washer.  The new lock nut was added and torqued to 20 ft-lb.  I rotated the hub several times in both directions and then retorqued to 20 ft-lb.  The manual says to back the nut off 60 degrees and add the adjusting cap and cotter pin it.  You are then supposed to check the rotational starting torque, but it felt nice and smooth to me with little resistance like it was prior to taking apart.  

 

 

Hopes for tonight are to mock up the rear spring and shock assembly and do some measurements to compare with Keith.  I will spend some time grinding down my welds from yesterday and cutting my strut towers apart.  

Edited April 14, 2016 by Stock Car Mafia

[Stock Car Mafia]

Spent most of the night going through the vidmar and reorganizing my organized parts.  I've collected so many Mustang, GTO, CBR1000, and now Datsun over the years that it needed to be gone through with all the bolt bags I have.  

 

I mocked up the rear strut to compare with Keith.  My strut from the top of the isolator to the base of the strut tube (on top of the casting) is 23".  His is 24" so that is telling me I am quite short for a 280z.  I will have to reweld at least 1.75" back in. 

 

 

Front shocks were greased up and slide in.  

 

 

I am a little confused on how you are supposed to tighen the top shock nut.  The top of the shaft is notched for what looks like a wrench to hold it but you can't fit one in there.  The camber plate that bolts to the shock doesn't hold the rod still as you tighten down.  Can someone tell me how retarded I am so I can get these tight?  lol

 

 

Besides a loose nut, they are ready to rock and roll.  I have been trying to get some feedback on a few things with Ground Control but they seem kind of spacey.  I have a feeling the car is going to sit way too low, so I am going to look at ordering in some 12" springs to try out first.  I have my front collars threaded damn near all the way up to where I am starting to load up the front spring.

 

[bramagedained]

 

You are then supposed to check the rotational starting torque, but it felt nice and smooth to me with little resistance like it was prior to taking apart.  

 

 

I did that the first time and it was too tight, and the bearings got hot.  I overestimated how much resistance was the correct amount.  I just used a cheap fish scale when I re-did things pulling on the wheel studs and it was much better.

 

Did you start cutting up the body to mount the flares yet?  I cut up my rears and I'm doing the fronts tomorrow.  I'm borrowing a welder this weekend to stitch the rear fenders back together and to build my frame for the fuel cell.

 

I felt just a little bit bad cutting up the otherwise completely rust free fenders.

 

The Marugen flares fit the body very nice.

[Stock Car Mafia]

I did that the first time and it was too tight, and the bearings got hot.  I overestimated how much resistance was the correct amount.  I just used a cheap fish scale when I re-did things pulling on the wheel studs and it was much better.

 

Did you start cutting up the body to mount the flares yet?  I cut up my rears and I'm doing the fronts tomorrow.  I'm borrowing a welder this weekend to stitch the rear fenders back together and to build my frame for the fuel cell.

 

I felt just a little bit bad cutting up the otherwise completely rust free fenders.

 

The Marugen flares fit the body very nice.

 

Thanks for the advice on the torque.  I'll pick up one of those and get that taken care of.  I'd hate to smoke my new bearings.  

 

I won't start my flares until I have the suspension put back on and have the car at full weight.  My z fenders are above the garage and I can't get to them until the car is able to move.

 

Let me know how the welding goes tomorrow!  Could you show me how to know which flare goes on the driver and passenger?  I want to say the wider portion goes in front of the tire.  I guess it is hard to explain but when I put them up to the body they all fit so good I couldn't tell.

[RebekahsZ]

To tighten the nut that attaches the strut rod to the camber plate: hit it with an air impact wrench. Don't go crazy-just a quick "braap!" on the low torque setting. If the rod fits the bearing correctly, there's not a lot of force here to make the nut come loose.

 

I will be in my shop this afternoon trying to line my car up. Let's get some full droop measurements on the front now. Then we can compare. I bet you will be ok up front. My car ran 8" front springs for a few years.

[RebekahsZ]

Another option for tightening the strut rod nut is to get a piece of flat stock and cut it into a wrench that will fit the flats on the rod that are just below the bearing in your picture. Home-made custom single purpose wrench. You will have a box full of such tools after a few years of hybridZ living.

Edited April 15, 2016 by RebekahsZ

[bramagedained]

I dunno how to explain which one goes where since they are not marked at all.  However, each one only really fits on one corner nicely, due to how they are contoured.  Just by holding them up to the body it's pretty easy to figure out.

[Stock Car Mafia]

Thanks man, I should be able to figure it out when I get to that point.  

[RebekahsZ]

I texted you an incorrect measurement on the fronts. Total length from top of camber plate to the bottom of the assembly where the steering knuckle bolts on is 22.25" on my car in full extension. I just double checked myself on that.

 

Front car in this pic is a stock '71. My car in back at this weeks autocross in back. It was fun getting to drive both cars to see the difference that 25 years of development with the help of hybridZ can make. The difference was about 10 seconds on a course with fastest times of 52 seconds and a lot of cars running 74 seconds. I think the un-modified Z ran around 65 seconds, the modified Z was in the 52s with an occasional clean run.

Edited April 18, 2016 by RebekahsZ

[Stock Car Mafia]

Thank Keith.  I haven't measured my front yet, but I would assume it would be close to yours with the exception of the Koni's.  

 

That is quite the time difference between the two.  I'm glad to hear your Z if one of the fastest in the group  I am really glad I am completing the suspension overhaul before I drive the damn thing.  All the bushings were shot, the shocks were leaking, and the car was just extremely soft.  I knew it wouldn't be that fun with all the power and I figure I can still get this thing going here soon even with taking a side step.

 

I am in Green Bay, WI for meetings part of this week.  I am taking whatever time I can get to completing the car.  I am still crossing my fingers that the flanges and axles don't drag on weeks and weeks  Still there is plenty to do before I get these.

[Stock Car Mafia]

Hawk's HPS Brake Pads were returned based on some advice of their performance.  The Porterfield R4-S pads just arrived last week.

 

I spent a little time last night cutting up the top of the strut towers.  Man there is a trick to using a 1 1/2" hole saw.  

 

Just called Joe again and he confirmed parts are being shipping in the next few days to him.  I was able to place my order finally for the Z31T 27 spline companion flanges and shortened axles.  I do believe I should be able to reuse 3 of the 4 CV Boots on the axles I have.  I have a rusty passenger side axle I might steal a boot from.  

 

More to come tonight.  I might wrap up the last of the parts that need to be painted.  

[ehren]

I don't know if it's been mentioned here yet but if you are sectioning the strut tubes for the ground control setup, you can't compare measurements between a 240z and a 280z. The 280 has longer strut housings. I am in the middle of my suspension build and I am swapping the front struts in to the rear housings and using MR2 struts up front. Near as I can tell, this requires you to section about 3 inches out of the strut housings. (I think you only need to section about 1.75" if it's a 240z.) My question now is about the placement of the weld ring... if you've sectioned 3 inches out of the strut housing, does that mean you should lower that weld ring 3" from Ground Control directions? Like if their instructions say to weld it 8" up from the bottom, do I weld it at 5" to compensate for the section I removed? Confusing enough? LOL

[Stock Car Mafia]

Keith and I have been comparing our cars, but also taking in to consideration the differences between the 240 and 280.  Jay from Ground Control is assuring me that I removed the right amount from my rear tubes as I am using the stock isolator.  

 

Even though 3 inches are removed, you still need to weld the ring on at 8 inches for a 280z.  

 

I have all the parts painted now and can start assembling the car after I finish cutting my towers up for the camber plates.  I've been sick for almost 3 days and haven't gotten out in the garage yet.

[RebekahsZ]

Hope you feel better fast.  I bet all will work out fine on the struts.

[ehren]

Could you give me a breakdown of the parts you are using to put the coilovers together? I'm stuck on mine. I tried to assemble the rears last night and I can't get it all together with enough room for the nut on top of the strut. Even compressing the spring doesn't make a difference...

[Stock Car Mafia]

I will be hopefully fully assembling the rears tonight.  Still not feeling the best but I can't just not work.  

 

ehren, I can take some pictures tonight for you and add them.  What exactly are you struggling with on the rear?  Are you saying that even with the spring compressed, you can't get the nut on the strut rod with the spring hat, bearing, and isolator on it?  I know the isolator is notched and can only go on one way.  Maybe this is your hold up?

[Stock Car Mafia]

I will say that cutting up your front towers is quite the chore and isn't the easiest thing. I didn't use the general template the is highly downloaded here as GC provided some detailed instructions on how to make the cuts.  

 

The first step is to drill 10 pilot holes per tower.  Four for the camber plate bolts and for the hole saw and four for the edges of the camber plate hole.

 

 

These holes are drilled for the camber plate "guide" that goes under the tower.  

 

 

The 1.5" hole saw was a pain in the ass.  The ridge from the old shock made it damn tough to get a clean cut.  The holes definitely needed to be massaged for the final product.  

 

 

 

The bolt brackets for the camber plate guides also needed to be ground down for both sides.  These obviously bolt from the bottom but it gives you perspective on the edges that needed assistance.  If I can find a pic of the before I'll post it.  

 

 

This is the hole after I cut away room for everything.  I bolted it all up several times to check how close I was.  I think the shape on the bottom is ugly and might just go straight across before I am done.  

 

 

The guides were bolted in.

 

 

And the camber plate was put in for final mock up.  

 

 

There's a lot more detail to this, but anyone cam PM me if they have questions and I can send over the directions. I'm a little dehydrated at the moment making this quite tough.  

 

Edited April 26, 2016 by Stock Car Mafia

[Stock Car Mafia]

The rest of the suspension parts (rear struts, axle stubs, hook/tow plates, brake drums) all got painted while I was sick on Saturday.  Since I don't think I will be painting much more I wanted to take care of the front damper, water pump pulley, and battery tray area.  I was getting sick of staring at that rusty crap.

 

 

 

 

[JoeK]

For what its worth, I think the shape on the bottom cut looks unique and interesting. If you clean it up and go for even reveals around the camber plate, I think it'll look sweet.

Edited April 26, 2016 by JoeK