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S30 radiator options


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Hey guys, I'm looking for a radiator option for my s30. While I have found plenty of radiators that are the right exterior dimensions, I have yet to find a crossflow radiator with the proper inlet/outlet diameters for the LS water pump. What radiator are you guys running and/or what would you suggest? Temps in the summer reach 115+ degrees here in Vegas. All help would be much appreciated.

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I used an ebay aluminum radiator and ordered tubing from Speedway.  Had new inlet and outlet tubes tig welded at the local welding shop, so that the tubing had bends and diameters that let me run available hoses.  This wound up being incredibly simple and exquisite.  Also had a bung welded into the top tank for the steam vents.

Edited by RebekahsZ
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I used an ebay aluminum radiator and ordered tubing from Speedway.  Had new inlet and outlet tubes tig welded at the local welding shop, so that the tubing had bends and diameters that let me run available hoses.  This wound up being incredibly simple and exquisite.  Also had a bung welded into the top tank for the steam vents.

 

 

What size rad did you go with? I want to do the same but weld AN bungs on the rad

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It was an ebay aluminum 3-row replacement for a 240,260,280z.  Champion brand.  I wish it was 4 row.  Car can get pretty hot at the track.  My next radiator will be custom cross-flow to be mounted IN FRONT of the radiator support to make room for turbos.  Try to mount it in front if you are shopping for a radiator now-never say never!

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I will be going with a radiator from Wizard Cooling. They already make one that fits an S30 but they can custom build you whatever you need. I just want the filler neck to the side instead of the center and to have an -AN 4 fitting for the steam vent on the heads. When I spoke with them they told me to wait until I have the motor in in order for me to give them measurements between the core support and the front of the motor this way they make sure they build me something that fits properly and it's rated to the engine and hp requirements I will be running.

 

I think that the biggest issue is to make sure the radiator is rated for your application. You can buy one from ebay and make it work but will it work as its supposed to? Especially in the summer heat with the A/C on in stop and go traffic.

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I just want the filler neck to the side instead of the center and to have an -AN 4 fitting for the steam vent on the heads.

I think the champion has worked for many LS swaps but I'm a fan of the filler neck located off to the side as well. It's been discussed that a few Griffin radiators fit also.

Edited by Stock Car Mafia
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Stock LS1 (at the time). Ran the factory 240Z rad for a couple years. Worked fine on interstate right at thermostat setting. On track (road course) would get hot after a couple laps so had to manage temps. Went to Champion ebay deal and temps were much better on track. Then added splitter and temps went up. Managing airflow is as or more important than the core itself. Hood vents, ducting, etc. Round 3 went with an off the shelf Ron Davis Racing dual pass and it works awesome.

 

PS: I used to manage on track temps to try not to exceed 230 deg as measured in the passenger head port. Now dont ever see over maybe 210 on track.

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I'm going to be in the same boat soon. Mishimoto makes a 2 row replacement but that's out of the question on v8 setups IMO.

 

eBay champion 3 row is probably the route im taking with aluminum shrouding and fan. I'll have an intercooler in front, and potentially AC condenser, so I'll probably be making an air duct.

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Im using a 3 row champion..... I have to look up the hoses but they fit perfect with a little cutting.  Arizona Z car make a nice radiator too. 

 

I went with a 3 row Champion after having an Arizona Z car unit for 5 years.  I was in a minor accident and lost the AZ car radiator, which is why I went with the Champion.  When I bought the AZ car unit, there were no other "stock" aluminum rad options at the time.

 

The AZ car unit is nice, but a few things to consider:

 

1)  No drain provisions

2)  Its taller than the stock 240z radiator, which is not a bad thing

3)  It does not sit flush against the core support.  The tabs do, but the body does not, thereby leaving a gap at the top and bottom.  This is important as it does not seal up the opening which is crucial for efficient cooling.

4)  It is expensive compared to the Champion, nearly twice the price.

 

The Champion radiator is a true stock replacement.  My car actually runs cooler now with it than the AZ car radiator under all traffic conditions.  I've sealed up the front a bit (just blocked the openings in the core support really) and my car will never see over 180 degrees on the highway when it is over 100 degrees outside unless I am under load (i.e., going uphill for an extended period of time).

 

As heavy85 said above, "Managing airflow is as or more important than the core itself."  Just simple things like blocking the holes in the core support helps out quite a bit.  When I had the AZ car unit, I did block of the gaps I mentioned above.  I also added a piece between the top of the core support and the grill to keep air from going over the top, and I had another piece down low to route the air through the radiator and not go under it.  The top piece helped quite a bit, but I've found that I do not need that same piece with the Champion for some reason.

 

You can see the shroud I added and how I addressed the above mentioned gap in the picture below.

post-1734-0-77080100-1446829141_thumb.jpg

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Just FYI, a lot of people get stuck on cross flow radiators and cross flow does not cool any better than a down flow. This is straight from a radiator's manufacturer's website.

 

 

 

Is a cross flow radiator better than a down flow?

 

Not necessarily. The important factor is the amount of heat dissipation surface the core has. The coolant flow direction is not important.

 

 

I'm going with something similar to this one except a down flow. so the tanks will be on the top and bottom like the original S30 radiator. Wizard can engineer it to any HP set up you are running. For a small fee of course.

post-14557-0-42844100-1446845272_thumb.jpg

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