Forgot your password?
Or sign in with one of these services
Exposed, December 2, 2015 in Toyota L6 Forum
Just cut the coolant neck to make it go straight. Have someone tack weld a bead on it for a hose to clamp off good.
@Drift Boss, I figured I'm going to have to do that. It's pretty hard to find something with a bend like that.Does anyone have there battery relocated into the trunk? I was planning on tucking it to the side in the trunk but wasn't 100% set on that idea yet.
I ordered up an ignitor and its finally here, hoping to start my engine sometime soon. Fingers crossed
Where'd you get the intercooler from? I'm gonna have to buy one soon.
@Acesss, I picked up my IC locally.
I know its not a Z but its my lead sled, just painted.
I finally started wiring up the car and for anyone thinking of doing this for a first time plan it out prior. It's my first major wiring job and its a handful. Here is what I pulled out of the car from the previous owner.
I'm currently laying out the wiring on autocad, once I'm all finished up I'll post it up for some peer review hopefully someone adds there 2 cents.
Holy crap, I hoped that is all he touched that looks like a fire waiting to happen
It looks like there was a fire going to be a fire right away all the wires were nice and crispy. As of right now I have all my lights, radiator fans and horns wired up just need to connect everything into my combination switch.
Running into a bit of a problem I'm trying to just get the engine to start up before i start wiring anything up any further. Can anyone tell me what exactly I'm missing here to get it to run.
1) I currently have +B1, +B and BATT from plug C86 hooked up to constant 12v power
2) the fuel pump is powered and grounded
3) the starter has a wire running to the positive battery terminal
4) battery is grounded to the frame
5) on plug C86 I connect IGSW to the positive terminal on the battery
I guess I figured once I connected IGSW to a 12v power supply the engine would try to turn over but the only thing I hear is the starter clicking and fuel pump running. I'll try connecting MRel (plug C85) and IGSW together and connecting it to the positive battery terminal. I'm not to sure if this matters or not but I don't have the ignitor bolted down to anything. Should I run the thicker cables on my alternator directly to my positive battery terminal?
...yeah...remove the whole harness, wire it from scratch.
...yeah...remove the whole harness, wire it from scratch.
This x1000 and check eBay for wire. I got 1500ft of tfetzel wire for $40 from there.
The other day I had some time between work and responsibilities and I managed to get her running. Not the best quality video but its good enough. View My Video
I'm going to need to tidy up the wiring in the engine bay and properly hook up everything to the ignition switch and the rest of the car. Will hopefully have some speed hut gauges ordered this week as well.
I've been slowly doing some research on wiring and everything is in Japanese... was curious if any guru's on here could give me there two cents on my wiring diagram and if I'm missing anything crucial or if they see something that just won't work. PM me and I can send over my diagram.
Video won't play for me so I can't view it.
This is going to be something much easier to see drawn out. The bare minimum can be determined using a megasquirt diagram, 2jz one would be fairly close as well.
Found a cd009 transmission locally for relatively cheap so I snatched it up and order up a collin's adapter and a short shifter. Transmission didn't come with a shifter assembly so I'll need to take some measurements and fab something up or buy one already made. Really liking the look of the Hoke shifter relocation mount though. I'll toss some pictures of everything up shortly.
For the guys running a catch can did you run lines from your valve cover to the can or were bungs welded in and tossed some filters on? Are there benefits of just running filters?
I will be using a weld on setup when the time comes for my 2jz and not sure if I will have my go to fab guy help with this or just get one of the kits available.
From Power House Racing:
"Anyone building a high horsepower/high boost 2JZGTE engine has to consider the effects of crankcase pressure at these levels. With the standard PCV valve (only 7mm) the engine simply is not able to remove pressure fast enough from the crankcase while under boost. The PHR Race Engine Breather Kit solves this problem, by increasing the venting area by over 200%. By removing crankcase pressure, you increase engine efficiency and therefore increase horsepower.
Anyone who has ever put together 12AN lines and fittings can tell you how costly something like this is to put together. This is not merely an “oil catch can” but rather a complete engine breathing system for big boost/big HP engines. Stock or mildly modified engines can also benefit from this setup, but only slightly. You must remove the OEM charcoal canister in order to install the breather tank on the passenger side of the engine bay"
And the Titan Motorsports offerings:
"An oil catch can collects the oil, moisture, and blow-by gas that causes carbon and sludge build-up in the intake system and engine, and helps to keep it clean even under the hardest driving conditions. This oil catch tank is also an excellent engine dress up item as well"
thanks for the information, was planning on welding up some bungs but soon. For now ill just run an oil catch can and eventually add some bigger bungs for a proper breathing system.
good choice on the adapter kit! I just put my clutch on. I destroyed the pilot bushing because my dumb self tried to get it flush (which it doesnt need to be) and mushroomed the bushing badly. Paid $75 for another one :/
it was definitely a learning experience for me when doing the installation. What brand of clutch did you decide to go with?
I brought his kit and I think I got the 700ft-lbs one because my goal for my build is around 400-450hp.
im also doing a 1j swap in a 74'.
I was going to go with the cd009 gearbox, but after doing some reading I've been leaning towards the Solstice Ar-5.
@Joa, is the install scaring you off? I havent driven the car yet as works been to busy to finish up the wiring but from talking to the 350z guys locally I havent heard any complaints about the cd009 transmission. What type of power are you hoping to put out?
No i am still working on the swap. Just as far the gear box goes, Ive done quiet a bit of reading on different options and the Solstice Ar5 transmission (Newer R154) is what i plan on.
I am only going for a minor bpu swap, i'd be happy with 350-450whp.
Ive been watching your thread tho keep up the good work my man, what clutch/flywheel set up did you go with?
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Already have an account? Sign in here.