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Exposed's 1jz Build


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Not silly at all. It took a bit of reading, convincing, then planning before I arrived at a choice that made sense to me.

 

Of those two you would want to run the one on the left with the vacuum source being higher then the oil source (from valve cover), preferably with a baffle plate to prevent oil from being pulled directly into the vacuum source. You would also want it sealed (as in no air filter on the box) so that it is actively pulling vacuum under boost (otherwise the vacuum would pull air from the filter on the catch can which is easier).

 

So, hoses from the valve cover to an upper portion on a tallish catch can, vacuum source to a point higher than the hoses or straight up on top of the valve cover going to pre turbo intake.

 

Running the one on the right you would pull oil residue directly through the turbo from one of the covers.

 

I am almost sure that Rad Dan's supra is running the "correct" setup.

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Another "correct" one

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An "incorrect" one in my opinion.

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I think that style is popular coming from the NA world, and some other engines may not suffer on boost, but I've read with 2jz it is something to look into.

 

Radium sells "correct" catch cans as well, I think they have a good article as well, but they do charge really quite a bit.

 

I also made sure to run similar diameter to prevent excessive vacuum. So I have the same diameter hose from both valve covers feeding into the catch can, and the catch can has two more hoses feeding to the pre turbo inlet.

 

I do invite you to run your own searching, this is one of those things I see a lot of people claim "I've done X never had any problems" on both sides of the fence. The strongest advocates for running sealed with vacuum generally are those who have had front seals pop out or want to be extra cautious. For me it made sense, and I made mine with an eBay catch can, a couple extra holes, and some welding.

Edited by seattlejester
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Thanks for the info guys.

Saw a couple of the pictures above but was planning on running a turbo guard filter. I might just drill the existing hole in the turbo housing and use that for the catch can, waste gate and boost controller. Will read up on it a bit more.

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Edited by Exposed
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Hah, don't do that. You need pre-turbo inlet, the hole on the housing is a boost source, plumbing that into a sealed catch can would for sure blow out something. For the catch can/valve covers you really want a vacuum source, which on a turbo car comes only from a pre-turbo inlet or there are some exhaust driven vacuum source generator type things.

 

For sure read up, always good to discuss things.

 

 

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You'll also want more of a filter on the end of the turbo inlet, that resistance offered by the filler is what generates vacuum for the catch can. Now if your plan is to run a 'filter' like you linked above, you can connect a 1-way check valve to the exhaust at a 45 degree angle and connect the catch can to that. Just don't run a catalytic converter if you do.

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3 hours ago, seattlejester said:

45 against the flow direction right? I've been curious how those work, I would imagine they would just melt whatever was connected to them pretty much.

 

With the flow, the kits will protrude into the exhaust stream, if you Google exhaust scavenge kit you'll see images that do a better job of explaining it. Vibrant performance makes such a kit, part number 1189. In theory given the lack of movement and distance from the valve cover you could connect the kit with stainless hardline if you were worried about melting stuff.

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13 hours ago, seattlejester said:

Ah, yes, that is what I imagined. It is interesting they make provisions for an AN10 fitting, which would indicate the use of AN 10 line, but not sure how good they are against direct heat. I guess the lines do sit on the turbo which itself gets pretty darn hot. 

 

5/8 stainless hardline from catch can to exhaust scavenging bung and no worries about melting stuff. But I think by the time heat traveled from the bung to the AN fitting it wouldn't be enough to melt the SS braided hose.

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Its the inside hose material I would be more concerned about, a little bit of deformation and it would just pull vacuum through the braid I imagine. But I've seen turbine housings get red hot, so it must be reasonably doable. Worse case, like you said some hard line would probably be fine. I did notice a lot of the competition JZ cars at FD looked like they had something of this nature, a hose going towards the back near the exhaust connecting to the catch can, I can only imagine this is what it was.

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  • 2 weeks later...

appreciate all the info guys, ended up just getting an air filter this weekend and tossed something together to get it on. Also finished my intercooler piping and catch can. Can't wait to get this on the road.

Been reading up trying to find out what size fitting going on the front on the turbo, had read it was 1/8"npt, some say M10x1.0, anyone happen to know? 

 

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Edited by Exposed
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I'm almost positive it was a 1/8 NPT, I recall I had the same question, called AGP and they told me, and I went and bought it from the hardware store same day and I don't think they carry metric barb stuff.

 

That catch can looks pretty good. I fear the little fitting may not be quite enough to pull enough vacuum, but I think it is way better than open air. Did you put a little divider in between the the vacuum port and the rest of the catch can, so it allows the oil droplets to travel and fall out of suspension or at stuff it with some steel wool? A better catch can is going to be my first project when I get a tig.

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@seattlejester just tried a 1/8"NPT, it started to strip the thread, will take a picture and post it. Called a BW  dealer to see what the thread pitch is just waiting on a call back. I put a 1/8" npt fitting incase I needed to widen the hole. I ended up putting a 1" dia. tube inside the catch can to help draw air from the inside, also put course stainless steel wool inside. The plug at the bottom will be replaced with a hose so I can drain it easily from under the car.

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Thanks @Greeko I'm still a rookie though, I see it as worst case scenario I have scrap aluminum and wasted some cash. The best thing is I practice tig welding.

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Thank goodness for cross platform posting.

 

https://oppositelock.kinja.com/borg-warner-s257sx-e-pressure-fitting-size-1793974815

 

Looks like I recorded it as a 1/8 NPT. This was on a BW 257sx-e. I'm not sure if they changed it between the S200 vs the S300 though. If it isn't I'm real sorry to have led you astray. I would imagine it is an PT fitting given the pressure application.

 

Very cool. Mine is a simple box I had someone weld 2 additional 5/8 ports onto for a total of 4 5/8 ports going into a box. The guy was new at this though and was struggling so I didn't feel like I could ask him to weld in a baffle.

 

 

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