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Exposed's 1jz Build

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6 hours ago, Exposed said:

@Zetsaz @TUME @Dat73z Thanks guys, was thinking of running 5mm


@Jboogsthethug Ya I'm liking how its coming out, only thing I dont like is how many peices I made it in. Might redo it one more time and try 2 or 3 sections instead


Hmmm... seems my post didn't include full comment. I was going to say the one area of concern would be the door to fender gap. Maybe it's just mine, but something about the hinge design had a tiny leading edge rub on mine at first when it was reassembled even though the gap seemed right. I would double check your clearances there before committing to a number, with enough tolerances to account for future paint. 

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@Zetsaz I spent a few weeks investigating the gaps a couple years ago and the conclusion I came to was every 70-73 240z I saw in person (didn't check the 280s) was assembled differently from the factory. My car has maybe a mm difference between the DS and PS rockers, add to that the tolerances of a mm here and here for how the seams in the doors were folded, fenders, etc. and you ended up with a couple mm differences here and there lol


Best way to resolve this is probably to line up the rears of the doors first, then add or remove metal to get nice even gaps before paint

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  • 1 month later...

found an audi at the scrap yard that had most of its fuel door latch intact. Latch system looks . Modified it abit but managed to get opening and closing. Still need to clean up the filler area, gap and reinforce the fuel door.


image.jpeg.43ba4840863616111b679dd0069e56bc.jpeg image.jpeg.32bd6075f71a80b51726a64c349c42f3.jpeg image.jpeg.86bdc15ce335d64623b47c7961214a7a.jpeg image.jpeg.9b8ad36123ecc279af53dab6839326a3.jpeg image.jpeg.d65ad66a28c85c0f7b0fb7e26f6bfd15.jpegimage.jpeg.313b2c01f13d0c060631549d415c8b56.jpeg



Edited by Exposed
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All that work is looking pretty solid! Great job on the fuel door stuff. I never even considered you'd need to do that ha.

With the bumper indent, do you now just grind those welds down? Also, how do you weld al that without warping? Do you just have to do a tiny bit and then come back later over and over?


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I probably should have posted the process but hes a quick break down. Dont know if this is the correct way of doing this but it seems to work for me.


1 -Identify the area and take measurements so it can be similar to the other side.

2 -mark out your design, try to plan out the steps so you arent remaking a panel because you put an indent on the wrong side.

3 -put the design into the panel using whatever tools you have a your disposal (hammer & dolly, bead roller, resip hammer, etc)

4 -remember you didnt account for the stretching that was going to take place and now you have to hammer and dolly your panel straight again. Some of this hammer and dolly work could have been eliminated if I calculated prestretch required

5 -using your patch panel as a template, scribe around the edges and begin cutting. I try to leave 0.125" from the scribe line and finish it with snips

6 -tack the edges

7 -begin welding. I like to use tig for this and I try to run a bead without stopping. It warps alot.

8 -hammer and dolly or use a planishing hammer to flatten out the welds, go over the entire welded area with a wide faced hammer/ slapper and try to finish the panel as best as you can.



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