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HybridZ

No longer starting


Klmykvl

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Hello everyone,

 

Back again with another issue. 

 

My l28et for whatever reason has stopped firing. I am able to crank, but get nothing. It does act like it wants to start if I play with the throttle, so I'm thinking I may have too much fuel? I pulled a spark plug and it is somewhat wetted with fuel, but nothing too major. I know I am getting fuel and spark. I am running the stock 83 l28et distributor.

 

I am attaching my startup datalog and current tune for your review. Any help is appreciated. I'm hoping I'm overlooking something.

 

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0qmfOCPcDgnR0N0cXFaQkJNd00

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0qmfOCPcDgnbE1XaHlvWTUtLUU

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Did the engine run before?  Have you changed anything since the last time it ran well that may have caused an issue?  If it ran before, did it run well, or was it rough?

 

Double check your timing first.  The distributor is adjustable, and if it has loosened up and spun, it will change your timing.  If that is fine, and you still suspect it is running rich, then do a check on the usual suspects (CSV, Temp switches and sensors, etc.).  

 

Good luck!

 

Pillar

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The engine was running okay before. I got it to idle fairly well. The last time I remember it running I opened up the throttle abit and it began to run rough and died. I found that the cylinders were flooded which has me leaning to running rich. Matt from DIY pointed out that I have no vacuum while cranking so I am going to check for compression tonight, not sure how I could have lost compression just idling, but it would be nice to check that off the list.

 

Timing looks good while cranking. 10 degrees.

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Running rich shouldnt really "flood" the motor.  By "flood" do you mean that the plugs are a little damp, or is there actually fuel filling the cylinder.  If you truly flooded the motor while it was running, there is a chance that you could have broken a piston ring (essentially hydro-locking the motor).  The increased pressure of the cylinder trying to compress a bunch of liquid (potentially in this case, a large quantity of fuel) then something will have to give.  And it can often be piston rings or worse.

 

Is the cold-start valve still hooked up?  These are notorious for sticking open and causing the car to run very rich and sometimes flood.  The process for checking this has been posted many times before, and is also found in the FSM.

 

I would also check the fuel pressure regulator as well.  The original FPR is a vacuum-referenced unit, meaning it uses intake vacuum/pressure to adjust fuel.  These units just have a diaphragm that separates the intake side from the fuel side.  If this diaphragm fails (it has happened to me before) it will just pump fuel directly into the intake.  To test this, remove the small vacuum hose that connects the FPR to the intake plenum.  Take a much longer vacuum hose (at least enough to drape over the fender and out of the engine bay) and then run the fuel pump.  If fuel sprays out of the vacuum hose, then the diaphragm has failed.  You may want to have a friend hold the hose for you while you cycle the pump because if the diaphragm is indeed blown, the fuel can spray out quite forcefully and you can get fuel everywhere if you are not holding it steady (kind of like running the garden hose without holding onto it).

 

Good luck!

 

Pillar

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