JoeK Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 My sights are moving towards getting my motor ready for installation. Its been sitting on a stand in the corner for nearly a year. The LS1 came out of a stock '98 Camaro with about 85k on the clock. I've deleted the power steering pump and the car didn't originally have AC so think I have the front accessories basically figured out. I still have to work out the oil pressure and temp sender locations. The main info I'm looking for is what maintenance type things I should consider doing. Oil pump? Timing chain? Rear main seal? I don't necessarily want to fix it if it ain't broke, but if it's much easier to do while on the stand... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 (edited) How many miles on the motor? Do you know the history of the donor vehicle? Any obvious damage or leaks? My engine/trans had 18k miles on it and you could eat off of it. The car had spun off the road backwards and destroyed the rear subframe. When I removed my oil pan to swap from GTO to Camaro pan, the oil still clinging to the rods looked like fresh clear honey. I put that sucker in the car with the same plugs in it (never even pulled one to check it); haven't done anything but change the oil once a year since 2012. I started with the same clutch only separated the engine and trans long enough to install the clutch hydraulics adapter fitting, then slapped her back together. I have since replaced the clutch but it was driver launch technique that wrecked it. If I had been a smarter driver, I'd probably still have the stock clutch in it. Edited May 29, 2016 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted May 29, 2016 Author Share Posted May 29, 2016 There is about 85k on the motor. That is all the history I know about. I never saw the donor car other than a short video of the motor running before they pulled it. Not leaking any fluids. It will require a good cleaning at the minimum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Opposite end of the spectrum: verbal contract and money down with a guy to put LQ4 of unknown origins into my truck. Engine had unknown mileage and useage, obtained for free in trade. Oily and greasy. Swapper supposedly tore engine down and replaced can and crank bearings and installed new oil pump. Engine lost oil pressure on Dyno tuning and was shut down and torn down. All bearings bad again. Swapper replaced bearings and oil pump again, blaming failure on bad oil pump. Tuned car and gave it back to me. Within 1000 miles and towing the Z out of state from a race, oil pressure falling, temperature rising, lifters clattering. Limped that tired shit on home and took directly back to his shop. Bad bearings again. FINALLY took motor to get crank and block checked for alignment: got block align honed and crank journals turned, new bearings, new oil pump and I've enjoyed the truck with good engine reliability for over a year now. Uses oil, but I think that is from the PCV system. Had a clutch hydraulics failure later because swapper used a clutch hydraulic line that mush have been underfoot in his shop for a few years and it blew out randomly in the middle of the line, far away from any heat sources or chafing risks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 (edited) Ok. Pull the pan and see how she looks inside. If you are gonna do a bunch of track days install an Improved Racing set of oil pan baffles and a crank scraper. Check the plugs for gap and electrode wear. Cut apart the oil filter and check for chunks as big as grains of sand-that's bad and you need to tear down. If you wipe your fingers across the filter paper and you get kind of a waxy dull gray residue on your fingers, that's normal wear. If she looks ok at that point, I'd probably pop her in and hope for the best. If the motor has oil clinging to the crank, don't worry about first crank up but maybe disconnect the coils or fuel pump and crank some oil thru it a bit with the starter before first fire up and don't immediately blip the throttle or rev her up till you know you have good oil pressure 50-60 cold and 40 hot). If you don't see good oil clinging to parts when you inspect, consult with somebody about a good oil to crank a dry engine with for the first time. Install a new clutch slave cylinder and make sure the stack up on any replacement clutch parts are the same as stock. Install a 4-foot remote clutch slave cylinder bleeder hose. If you see any obvious leaks, like valve cover gaskets or the round rubber gaskets around the valve cover bolts, replace those. If the motor looks good, I wouldn't put a new pump in it-some replacement pumps are bad from the supplier. You can't match the quality of a factory built engine if you are a hobby-level wrench like I am. If things check out ok on a quick inspection, I'd leave well enough alone and get it fired up and on the road. Edited May 29, 2016 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 In addition to what Keith said, I would definitely replace the water pump. My LS1 had similar mileage and was fine for the first year. Year 2 and the water pump started leaking. The part is relatively inexpensive and it is far easier to change on the stand. I would also look at the knock sensors and possibly the seals around them. One of mine became fouled with oil. Again, easier to change with the engine on the stand. Valve cover gasket. Chances are it is weeping. Oil pan gasket. Again, chances are it is weeping as well. I just replaced mine on the car. It is much easier to do on an engine stand. You may need a new alternator if the P/S pump/reservoir was leaking. Mine was and it is located directly over the alternator. That is all that I can think of at the moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stock Car Mafia Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 For insurance purposes I agree with replacement of the gaskets. That stuff is fairly straight forward. Just make sure you have the pan you want to use and apply RTV on all 4 corners. With the pan off it will show you how clean the internals are. I was able to rotate the crank and check the cylinder walls and parts of the crank/cam. If the rear main seal looks good and not covered in oil you should be ok. I'd replace the pilot bearing for the tranny input shaft while you are in there. It's like a $10 part. Everybody touts about changing the oil pump and timing chain while you are in there. At 85K it could be a matter of time. If you are looking to stay stock, I would stay with a stock OEM pump. If you want to replace the chain, upgrade to the LS2 parts for the chain, etc. And since you're this deep you might as well get a fat cam for it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECH-E Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 (edited) Cam kit (cam, springs, pushrods), oil pump, timing chain, and new gaskets and you'll happily have a stout ~350whp that should run forever. If you're not doing a cam, I'd just do gaskets and go. The LQ4 in my truck has 312K miles and I bet it's got the stock oil pump and timing chain. If you're leaving the stock cam in there, the stock stuff should be fine. Something I did just replace was the oil pump pickup tube O-ring. It was causing low oil pressure and a ticking lifter. It's easy to replace with the pan off and costs all of $2. Edited June 1, 2016 by MECH-E Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 1, 2016 Share Posted June 1, 2016 Oh, yeah, that pick up o-ring is a must-do! That's been a problem for lots of folks. Consider staying stock cam. With a stick cam, you will burn clean. With a hot cam you will stink and sputter and buck at low rpm. It will be fast enough stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeK Posted June 1, 2016 Author Share Posted June 1, 2016 Yes, I am pretty much trying to keep it stock (LS1 motor that is). I figure it'll be fast enough to start, and when I think it feels slow, I'll go see a shrink. Seriously though, I just want to start out with a dependable runner. I keep resisting go fast motor parts as it's a slippery slope. If I do a cam, I'll want to do an intake too, which will lead to a new throttle body and fuel rails and injectors and rockers and springs and 243's and ARP's and .............. Sounds like I should do oil pan and valve cover gaskets, and the pick up tube oil ring seal. I'll probably do the water pump while I'm at it, since it's cheap insurance. And check the rear seal while the pan is off. New clutch, hydraulic throwout bearing and pilot bearing for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 (edited) I did the following on mine: thermostat rear main seal oil pan gasket (replaced it with c6 pan, so i had to change the pickup, o-ring, windage tray, etc) clutch slave and T/O bearing pilot bearing oem LUK clutch, flywheel, PP ($240 shipped from rockauto) injector o-rings (2 per injector, I think I got SK14 from rockauto: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1354128&cc=1313913&jsn=434 ) I will probably also do water pump while the motor is out, but my motor is from an 02 with 28k miles on it. Is this the part you guys are using as replacements? (there was something about waterpumps being changed to newer part numbers in 2004?) http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1299071&cc=1379976&jsn=549 Definitely get the blind hole puller and race driver set from autozone (free rental) if you don't have these. I tossed the pilot bearing in the freezer overnight and the entire pilot bearing change took me about 5 minutes Edited June 2, 2016 by auxilary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavy85 Posted June 2, 2016 Share Posted June 2, 2016 If there are no signs of leakage I would change the oil, pull a valve cover to see if there was sludge or signs the oil wasn't maintained and check the plugs. But I'm on the other end of the spectrum. IME of 8 years on track with mine these LS1 are keep oil and gas in it and forget about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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