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Ryan Merrill

LSx Chinese 1 3/4 Forward facing header clearance pictures

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Pretty close but they fit. There is about 3/8" between the headers and the strut tower. 1 3/4 primaries are a little big and the 3" vband collector is definitely too big to be optimal in any car under 800 HP. At 160 bucks US, they meet my budget and I will be using them. The metal is a little think for my liking but it should hold twin t3's no problems. I will be going twin T4's so I may make a support bracket for the turbo's. The engine is a 5.3 aluminum L33 Gen IV, LS1 intake, upgraded cam, springs, and pushrods.

 

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I remember the collector hitting the block and huge potential for accessories to fit up, unless something custom was fabbed. I ran mine up and forward after lengthening the forward cylinders runner for more of an equal length setup

 

And they were 1-3/4 inside header so they should be advertised 1-7/8

Edited by nathaninwa

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Zspeed22-do they clear the steering rod too? How is plug wire clearance?

 

They do clear the steering rod without an issue. Also plug wire clearance is not an issue either because of how the tubing is spaced. Honestly they two issues I have with these are the giant collector vbands, and how far forward they put the vbands. Those are two things I can easily work with.

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These are the 240sx Cxracing ls swap headers. I flipped them and used LSsimple alternator brackets putting it low on the passenger side. I had to use some 90 degree plug and coil boots. but overall the fit is good. will be it SOB changing plugs though. they may fit better with the dingo mounts and turned over like they are supposed to be.

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They defiantly do fit with the dirty dingo mounts upside down. The alternator will have to be moved up top to clear.

 

 

I just dont know how to mount the alt to clear the hood. Passenger side will have issues with the down pipe.  Truck mount for high alt on drivers side hit the hood. The low mount way also creates issues with exhaust path. I would rather go under the header than over. IMO.

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I just dont know how to mount the alt to clear the hood. Passenger side will have issues with the down pipe.  Truck mount for high alt on drivers side hit the hood. The low mount way also creates issues with exhaust path. I would rather go under the header than over. IMO.

This is what I did for the alternator with the stock Fbody mount. I have seen a few people use this method in the past.

 

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Nice, I might do this but shorten the length that the vbands stick out.

 

I did end up having to mill the back of the Alternator when I did this so the thickness of the bracket coming off the head did not change angles on anything. I also planned on pie cutting them down to a smaller vband. If you notice they would hit the factory heater bypass lines on the water pump. You could do a few things with that. I decided to cut the pump mill the center out and cap it. This way it can internally bypass.

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I did end up having to mill the back of the Alternator when I did this so the thickness of the bracket coming off the head did not change angles on anything. I also planned on pie cutting them down to a smaller vband. If you notice they would hit the factory heater bypass lines on the water pump. You could do a few things with that. I decided to cut the pump mill the center out and cap it. This way it can internally bypass.

 

 

I threaded the heater holes and plugged them with allens on the water pump. I also have a mill, so Im not to worried about clearances.

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