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So I trimmed out the rust on my rear wheel arches, now I had to remove also parts of the rear wheel well area because the rust went through those as well. I was going to try and weld the rest before repairing the actual fender but found more rust higher up. Shop now that I found more I have to cut out would it possible to use some epoxy to reattach too close up the fender well or does it have to be welded?

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Kind of hard to envision exactly where you're talking about. When I did my flares I welding everything back up. I've read that the whole area is structural so based on that I would recommend welding. Thats the approach I took anyways. 

I'll try and take a photo.  There is structural adhesive available, and it would only be just on the wheel well arch area, but I figured Id ask about it.  

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Here's a couple photos I could focus on the rust I'll have to cut more out. Since I will have to cut more I won't be able to fold it and weld it like it would normally be done.  Figured I could use the panel bonding method with structural adhesive then it would still be bonded and I wouldn't have to try and weld higher up.  Only in the rear wheel arch area is needed.

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post-15914-0-73454200-1467527291_thumb.jpg

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Get some help from a hot rod shop and have that welded. Structural adhesive is good for binding panels that touch one another, not filling holes. My fab guy here in Florence could fix that no prob....when he got around to it. These guys tend to be "artists" and most of them work at an artist's pace. But I can't do what they do, so I'm used to long delays.

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I wouldn't use it to fill that hole, I would use it with those panel bonding pieces from Eastwood to keep certain parts of the panel together.  That hole was a seam sealer that fell out from old age, that I will have to fill but I won't be using the structural adhesive. Just FYI to the big hole you see.

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"Shop now that I found more I have to cut out would it possible to use some epoxy to reattach too close up the fender well or does it have to be welded?"

 

That was kind of difficult to read.

 

Do you mean you want to use epoxy to close up the fender well? Or do you mean you want to use a patch panel to span the gap and use epoxy to attach the patch panel?

 

If you are going to do flares, then it really doesn't matter, welded would be the best option to close it up. You can find the cheaper/shortcut answers on your own. 

 

If you want to keep the stock body lines, then you are going to cut out everything with rust, find a donor piece, transfer the cut line, then weld everything back in. Epoxy really doesn't come into the equation.

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"Shop now that I found more I have to cut out would it possible to use some epoxy to reattach too close up the fender well or does it have to be welded?"

 

That was kind of difficult to read.

 

Do you mean you want to use epoxy to close up the fender well? Or do you mean you want to use a patch panel to span the gap and use epoxy to attach the patch panel?

 

If you are going to do flares, then it really doesn't matter, welded would be the best option to close it up. You can find the cheaper/shortcut answers on your own.

 

If you want to keep the stock body lines, then you are going to cut out everything with rust, find a donor piece, transfer the cut line, then weld everything back in. Epoxy really doesn't come into the equation.

I meant "So now that I found more rust" don't know why auto correct decided to add extra letters haha. Anyways I was thinking of a quicker solution. Since the inner fender well is now shorter then the outer fender I can't do the slicing and folding like you would normally do. I'll have to find a way to weld in there all the way around. I was thinking of using the structural adhesive with those panel repair kits to reattach it that way. Just wanted to know what people thought of the adhesive idea since our cars or unibody.

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Gotcha, so you were thinking of patching using new material from the outside in. I would say bridging the gap with a piece of metal welded in would be better. Trying to bond two non flat panels in awkward planes can be difficult since you can't use clamps to hold both planes. 

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