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Repair solution for bad turn signal switch


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Nice!

 

We need a section in the Electrical forum that centralizes all of the information on combo switch repair.  Like the section recently set up for Cooling Systems.

 

https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/turn-signal-repair/

 

 

 

Edited by Miles
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Operation of the switch is better than original; glides easily into position and easily returns to off position with steering actuators. The original switch always seemed to drag and function was hit and miss.

Brakes lights work as designed, no issues.

Switch used was Dorman part #85905. I picked it up at Autozone.

Note the two nuts used as spacers under the mounting plate. The spacers were required with this switch to set the switch arm at the right position.

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3 position switch.

Center position is off - normal state

Signaling simply moves the switch into one of two 'on' positions.

The switch is designed to work like I am using it. Only difference is that the signal arm is actuating it instead of my finger tips.

If and when the switch fails, a simple $5 replacement can be screwed into place.

This conversion will help anyone struggling with a turn signal switch. The price of an OEM replacement rebuilt or new is crazy!

Hope this helps someone.

Edited by Smyrna388Z
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  • 1 month later...

I sent both my turn signal switch and headlight combo switch to Dave Irwin at http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net. Turn around time was less than 48 hours and they look and work like new. The combo switch was broken/jammed and he replaced the arm inside, polished the plastic and replaced connections. On his advice, I upgraded the flasher relays to modern electronic flashers and it all works better than new. For $130 shipped to get both switches done is well worth it. Just my 2 cents.

 

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Edited by Savage42
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  • 6 months later...

Operation of the switch is better than original; glides easily into position and easily returns to off position with steering actuators. The original switch always seemed to drag and function was hit and miss.

Brakes lights work as designed, no issues.

Switch used was Dorman part #85905. I picked it up at Autozone.

Note the two nuts used as spacers under the mounting plate. The spacers were required with this switch to set the switch arm at the right position.

What did you fabricate the plate the new switch is mounted to out of?

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It's simply a thin piece of steel. Cut the shape and drill the holes you need for the switch and the screws. My switch is still going strong; no issues. Good luck.

So my switch has six wires instead of three like yours, any ideas what to do with the other three? My car was built 11/70 if that makes a difference.

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Edited by Stike
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  • 2 years later...
  • 3 months later...

Just want to say thanks for posting this idea, i copied it today and it works great so far.  I had a similar problem and fixed it with a switch from a hardware store.  I did have a little interference with the plastic steering column covers, but was able to reposition the wires on the switch and they fit.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Thank you for this post. Switch 

On 8/1/2016 at 3:41 PM, Miles said:

That switch also controls the brake light circuit. The brake light gets cut out of the circuit in the R/L turn position. Brake lights still function ok?

 

Do you have specs on the switch?

Thank you Smyrna388z 😃

I found a switch that has the same function as the 240Z switch, and wires up the same way as the original part so I didn't have to cut or bypass any wires, the housing of the switch is a little bigger than the switch used above so I had to fabricate a larger base plate to mount it on the 240Z turn signal frame but it works great, it has been reliable and very affordable. 

 

https://www.amazon.com/American-Autowire-500148-Toggle-Signal/dp/B009T4TPRM

 

 

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