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240Z VQ37HR Swap


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Big step forward

Progress has been slow but the car can be pushed around right now Work on wiring up the gauges, wiring harness etc is basically under way now. The frame for the fuel cell needs a couple more brack

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  • 2 months later...

I see a lot of the old images I used to link from facebook aren't visible, maybe one day I will clean that up...but I did manage to get something else cleaned up. Not the full motor as I am not rebuilding it completely. But the most visible aluminum pieces have been cleaned up using some dry ice and some sandblasting. While its apart, got a Z1 motorsports clutch/steel flywheel, heavy duty clutch slave going on. JWT C2 Exhaust Cams, ATI Crank Pulley, new oil galley gaskets. The goal is to have 400 crank horsepower but just be reliable and maximally responsive. 

Was not originally going to do one, but a simple roll bar that is safe for mostly street use is going in soon. The front upper radiator support is going to be modified to be bolt in/out for much easier engine install and service. Most of the exterior body work is done now. But once the metal work is done things will start moving quicker. We have the roof in slick sand and other areas will follow once the metal work is completed, then it can sit around and shrink for a good long while before being properly sanded down. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Flares being fit, I think we will move these rear ones up about 1 cm, the tire is going to be out a lot more once the what looks like 6 degrees of negative camber are gone :D Might run a small spacer to get a bit more flush if need be, but really happy with the fitment altogether. 

Correcting the body line with the door, looking much more chiselled. Lots more exterior body work getting done soon, I didn't take photos but most of the holes in the engine bay are welded up now too. 

Simple roll bar, functional, strong, I love some of the full cages people run, they look glorious but realistically I am not going to race this car, it might see an open lapping day here and there so it can be enjoyed properly and stretch its legs. 

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Yea they should be higher, I believe the correct way is to have the rear of the rear fender mount on the rear bumper line, where you have the front of the rear flare sitting is correct, the front does the same with the front lining up on the bumper line and the rear mounting on the door line.

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^That car is not quite right, while it looks fine, if you look at the center of the wheels to the body line on the door you can see the rear wheel sits below the line while the front wheel sits above. Also can be seen from comparing ground clearance of the bottom of the car front to back. The front flare is mounted correctly. I think this car was done intentionally this way as the coilover kit he was running when this was taken bottomed out at that height.

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^This as Ereschkigal mentions is more correct in that the top two bolts are above that rear line mirroring the front.

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More corrector.

 

I think the reason people mount it the way they do is the kits don't have the slight curve or step to accommodate wrapping around the line so they just flatten it out there.

 

You will have to cut quite a bit of the body to mount it correctly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Upper radiator support changed to a bolt in style for much easier engine pulls and install. Moar slick sand, part of the battery tray removed...things are rolling along :)

Also picked up a new daily last week to replace my Mazdaspeed 3 which I am now selling. 

2018 Golf R, dark violet pearl, im digging the colour, very comfy...a little too comfy...and I know everyone here knows exactly what I mean..unlike many other online car forums

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