gira Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 I have an L28 that I just built up. Got it put back into a 76 280 Z with fuel injection. I am getting no oil pressure out of this thing. The block was hot tanked, etc. It was clean and came from a running car and admittedly I did not chase the galleys out. It looked new almost. I have a Z Source master rebuild kit with whatever oil pump they come with. Any leads on what I might look for first? I mean, I am not getting a drop out of the oil galley sender hole. Thanks Guys, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacky4566 Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 how are you turning the pump? I would suggest just using a hand power drill until its flowing. Is the pump primed? IS there oil in the tank? Maybe the pickup is blocked or not sealing at the block? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted December 20, 2016 Share Posted December 20, 2016 I'd also like to know if you used a drill to prime it before you fired it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BJSZED Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 The filter should be filled with oil and then put on as well as filling the oil pump with oil before putting it on. Then you can turn the crankshaft with a ratchet etc. until oil comes out of the cam shaft holes or spray bar. That's what I did, didn't take too many revolutions to get oil to the top. You can leave your rockers off if you"re concerned about the cam. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted December 21, 2016 Share Posted December 21, 2016 1: All of the above and make sure that you didn't leave a Timing cover bolt or two loose. Oil passages from oil pump go through TC and loose bolts ( or bad gasket ) will cause oil pump to such air and not prime. Long shot... but it happened to a buddy. You can also prime the oil galleries through the oil sending fitting. Juts get a Mechanics pump can for oil ( remove the sending unit ) and hand prime through oil sending port. If oil galleries are dry, they can take a long time to fill by cranking. Not good for bearings. 2: Pull the oil pimp regulator threaded plug out and make sure that the pressure relief valve is free and not sticking. Some oil pumps can have a bit of machining " swarf " left in the passage and the relief valve can stick open. That or a " burr " in the bore. Best to pull the pump and check it thoroughly. I usually disassemble new oil pumps and give them a thorough cleaning before I install. And prime them as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gira Posted December 21, 2016 Author Share Posted December 21, 2016 All good information guys. Plenty of oil in the sump. I did not prime the pump and am making a tool to be able to turn with a drill. I will take the pump out and have a good look at it. I have plenty of quality assembly lubricant on the important parts! In the past 10 engines I've built in a similar fashion, all uber clean parts etc, I have been able to get quick OP at the galley by using the starter and spinning the engine with no spark plugs. That has worked well in the past. Thanks again folks. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth. J. Posted December 22, 2016 Share Posted December 22, 2016 (edited) I ground down an old oil pump spindle for my recent build. I filled the oil pump before installing but I forgot to fill the oil filter, no big deal as it wasn't cranking. I then used a 1/4 socket on the end of a cordless drill in place of the dizzy and it primed in no time. A little crude I know but it did the job for me. Edited December 22, 2016 by Gareth. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gira Posted December 22, 2016 Author Share Posted December 22, 2016 YES! I bought some .484" bar stock from McMaster Carr, my all time favorite place to buy off the wall stuff, or anything really. The got it to me in two days with regular shipping. I made a tool similar to what Gareth used, except mine is longer and easy to get a drill on. I left the oil galley plug out so I could see the first drop. But, I couldn't see the galley hole and do the turning of the pump at the same time. SO, BFM in my driveway. It worked. I took the pump out and inspected it. All seemed fine so I primed it. Lesson learned. Thanks for the suggestions folks. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted December 23, 2016 Share Posted December 23, 2016 THe first start of my motor took a long time for the electric gauge to read. I hate the stock gauge, so sluggish... I wound up getting a hand pump and going in through the sending unit hole. It took quite a bit and whether it was going to the pump or flowing back into the pan I'm not sure but we started her up either way. Gave a few nail biting seconds and it read. Even on my L20B in the pickup, after sitting for 3 days and it being 17º out it took a few seconds to slurp it up. That's the lovely thing about accusumps but you should know that Gira (I presume Greg?). Though I must say I don't understand fully the drill technique. I get that it pumps oil throughout but when you drop the pump to put the real spindle back in aren't you just draining the system again? Does it ever really seal up around the pump when you do that or are you stuck with an oily dripping mess from that seal now? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gira Posted December 23, 2016 Author Share Posted December 23, 2016 Josh, The gasket at the oil pump is not an issue. When you drop the pump, it really doesn't drain the system, just a little residual oil comes out. It would be a good technique for an engine on an engine stand too! Regarding accusumps, I have used them in the past but found them to be a pain, take up room, etc. For cars that have a decent oil pan, I don't really need an accusump down here in Florida for cold conditions. Plus, all my race cars are dry sump! Well, for the most part. I had a 240z IT car once with a stock pan, and the accusump was practically mandatory, for braking and cornering forces and oil pressure. See you and thanks for your comment. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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