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Gear change striking rod lock bolt


Dadddio

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Getting the nut off is no big deal, a 10mm wrench will do that. The problem is pushing the wedge pin back out. I did it on a 5 speed BUT it had an extra hole in the rear housing for the reverse lock out. I supported the lever and drove the pin out with a punch and hammer.

 

This rear housing doesn't have that extra hole so the punch and hammer won't work. Wish I could offer some help, my guess is Nissan had a special tool ?

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If you could support the bottom lever and just loosen the nut so the threads are protected. Put very little heat where the pin goes through the lever ( so you don't take the temper out of the lever end ) and possibly lever against the nut with a prybar pivoting on the rear housing where the bearing supports are cut out.

I would try that 1st without heat just to make sure the mechanics of it all will work.

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Also, and this is my last 2 cents, lol.  You may be able to have the pin loosen if you remove it like a ball joint. Loosen the nut a turn or two, then using a punch and hammer tap the lever on the side. The pin is wedged like the stud on a ball joint and I get ball joint to pop loose by hitting the knuckle with a hammer. The vibration pops the joint loose from the knuckle...saves ribbed ball joint boots using the pickle fork. Hope that makes sense and good luck. Let us know what works.

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Okay....tried heat, put a block of steel against the case to pry against.

No go.

The rod was flexing quite a bit.

Wasn't sure how hot I could get it, but it was pretty hot.....any experts?....how hot can I get it?

Any more suggestions?

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Got it.

Ended up drilling a 1/8" hole approximately where I thought would line up......missed it by about 1/16".

Was still able to beat it out.

Had to support the rod to keep it from bouncing.

Had to hit it pretty hard.

Now....

The hole in the trans. case.

Gonna tap it and loctite an aluminum screw in it.

Thought about an aluminum rivet instead and pean it from bothe sides.

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