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HybridZ

Speeduino


AkRev

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It's ran (not running). Won't run for more than a couple minutes.

l28et (w/o the turbo right now)

I'm using the stock dizzy with the stock CAS (the 6 slot pattern), stock TPS, MAP sensor, and the generic speeduino map.

I have more work on the map, but I think this is significant progress for me!!

 

 

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  • 10 months later...

Wow, jonbill and juxsa, those are some clean builds! You guys are awesome. It took a while for me to circle back to this as I had been busy with bodywork and paint, but I am putting the turbo on this week. I ended up designing and machining a CAS replacement that bolts into the distributor slot because the l28et distributor cores are becoming scarce. I ended up going with a hall effect sensor instead. 

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I got a v0.4 board. I got all the components together but then started to get nervous about the bass from my sound system rattling the board to death. I have consulted some electrical engineers since then and settled on staking the components instead of potting because no one really knew for sure if the arduino mega thermals would work okay in the long term under full potting. 

 

How is yours holding up so far? Do you daily drive it?

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  • 1 month later...

will definitely be messaging you for info as i doing an na to turbo conversion and planning on going this route... its simple enough but powerful enough but not extremely well documented for the Z which has me a bit on edge.... do you have any xl files or other planning documents youve used? 

 

I want to make sure i get all the right sensors etc and theyre all compatible and someone has maybe used them (so a comprable basemap can maybe be had...)

 

Building a motorsport grade harness (or trying.. deutsch connects are crazy expnseive!) so once I have a list of components can start mapping a loom and stuff!

 

Glad to see someone doing this, looking forward to updates

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On 3/31/2021 at 8:51 PM, dogmeatk said:

I got a v0.4 board. I got all the components together but then started to get nervous about the bass from my sound system rattling the board to death. I have consulted some electrical engineers since then and settled on staking the components instead of potting because no one really knew for sure if the arduino mega thermals would work okay in the long term under full potting. 

 

How is yours holding up so far? Do you daily drive it?

look into some motorsport anti vibration (AV) mounting. Pretty much just grommets on bolts but if they can survive in race cars they can survive most things...ifused properly!

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On 5/9/2021 at 12:32 PM, nzarano said:

I want to make sure i get all the right sensors etc and theyre all compatible and someone has maybe used them (so a comprable basemap can maybe be had...)

 

Building a motorsport grade harness (or trying.. deutsch connects are crazy expnseive!) so once I have a list of components can start mapping a loom and stuff!

The main sensor you will have to figure out is Cam Position. The easiest solution is to use the 280ZX Turbo distributor because it has an optical trigger wheel, but those are getting rather hard to find. You have to swap the trigger wheel to one from the MegaSquirt Vendors.

There are some third party Z vendors that offer Crank-pulley-mounted VR sensor solutions, but you have to then mount a cam angle sensor anyway because you have to be able to tell the speeduino when TDC is triggered. 

I opted to build my own sensor using a hall-effect sensor because I couldn't find any reasonably priced plug-and-play optical sensors that were rated for the engine temperatures.  The hall-effect sensor is also more resistant to EMI in the engine bay, as logic is handled in the sensor as opposed to at the ECU.

 

I gave up on buying "motorsport" grade wiring and just got some Molex connectors pre-wired to 48" pigtails from McMaster. 

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On 5/9/2021 at 12:33 PM, nzarano said:

look into some motorsport anti vibration (AV) mounting. Pretty much just grommets on bolts but if they can survive in race cars they can survive most things...ifused properly!

AV mounts will not save the internals from bass vibration, the sound waves directly vibrate the components through the mount/case.

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