Jump to content

Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

Recommended Posts

The photo shows the fan duct folded up and held in place with 3" wide strap.   The strap is duct taped to fan body and the other end is velco attached to opposite side of fan.   





Extra grommets were added the area above the fan for more support.



When the curtain is open and aligned with the fan, it looks like this.





Once the fan is switched "on" , the incoming air pressure basically seals itself in the curtain wall.IMG_2769.thumb.JPG.68d282760d6bfff76268a1086cb23bb6.JPG


It works like those inflatable bounce houses for kids.   When finished using everything folds up nice and neat.

Edited by toolman

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Picked up four intake filters 20" x 20" and four exhaust filters 20" x 20".   Fabricated a metal frame out of some right angle  1/8" vertical shelve poles.



I hung a 10" strip of sheeting about 3" in front of the curtain cable by stapling to the ceiling.   The gap was necessary to allow  curtain movement but be close enough to seal the curtain to the ceiling.   With the fan running, you can see the fan pressure is sufficient to seal the curtains.


 Outside view -The garage door was lowered to the #1 exhaust filter frame and  #2  block off frame.  


IMG_2830.thumb.JPG.1d5541af18763f503e6c81c72ef7acc7.JPG     Inside view of exhaust filters


The booth airflow test consisted of hanging thin strips of plastic sheeting in the air to observe its movement.   As you can see, the test strip near inside exhaust filter  is being drawn against the filter-indicates sufficient airflow leaving the booth.



IMG_2805.thumb.JPG.e074e7d08edb94789eabc48ffcfcdac6.JPGThe outside test strip indicates outward airflow also.

After more testing, I found one of the exhaust filters had pushed out of the frame.   So I added some metal screen on the inside to stiffen the exhaust filters.   That seem to solve that problem.   I spent a little more than $200 of materials to build to this booth( mostly from Home Depot).    This booth suits my needs and requirements.   I hope you guys found its construction interesting.



   Added screen wire to stiffen the filters.









Edited by toolman
add pic and corrections

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to rust repair-on Left Rear Rocker Panel.   First pic shows all the dirt and rusted metal that was cut out.



Pic of area that was worked on.  What made this job harder was the rustproofing inside the panel.  Scrapping took most of off then removed the rest with lacquer thinner.  Then the area was sandblasted clean.   My new curtains helped as they kept the media spreading even further.




Rear view of repaired area.  Also, found additional rust on wheel housing.  Note-raised area above seat belt anchor bracket



 After sandblasting the area.



IMG_2870.thumb.JPG.05b1b92d8454e7b6d525a2deaa6b7224.JPGMade temp[ate for panel patch.



Note: the raised area had to be hammered formed.  This was necessary so the patch would not touch the seat belt reinforcement  plate.  The factory plate has similar raised area.   I also made the wheel housing side one piece to prevent  future leakage.


IMG_2885.thumb.JPG.58425acd6abb55a595e310eb89f9bb05.JPGPatched the wheel housing area,


I drilled a 1" hole near the seat belt bracket so I can rustproof this area after painting the car.   240Z  usually had corrosion problems on front

and rear of left/right rocker panels.   I think more though rustproofing and urethane seam sealing will do a better job against corrosion.

Edited by toolman

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Returned Sunday from a convention in Las Vegas but managed squeeze  three hours of Z work time in.   As I was waiting for the front 

lower quarter panel leg, I decided to pull out two dents on the same rocker panel.

IMG_2922.thumb.JPG.88ca7235eb6a65dc2af89a06e6f5a10e.JPGTo do this, a 110vt stud gun was utilized.

The gun spot welds copper studs to the damaged area then the sliding grabs and pulls the dent out.


Pic of crease  on rocker panel.



Another angle of stud pulling.



If the repaired becomes "high" ,  there is also a shrinking tip that can be used.   This flat tip will heat a small area "red 

hot" then tap this area with a body hammer down.   Next, "quench" the area with a wet rag. This will create the shrinking action to occur and lower the area.

IMG_2937.thumb.JPG.871bab8a45c1a9a091fb4792f9c10251.JPGRepaired area after grinding with#24 grit paper


IMG_2939.thumb.JPG.d754ad20d2e4945b191dad2443369081.JPGPic of the other dent repaired with stud gun





Edited by toolman
correct text

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The quarter panel dog leg section is still on back order from the manufacturer so I just do other body work for now.   Next, the old metal reat fender flares must be cut out with aIMG_2994.thumb.JPG.8f29979989272f975812f12244cba317.JPGcutoff wheel and air saw.

Additional flaring work must wait till the new wheel and tire configuration is determined.


 Inside view of cut out fender flare




The left rear quarter panel was stripped of previous paint jobs (about three) plus the original primer and color.



To aid in paint stripping, the addition paint layers( besides factory ones) can be removed with a single edge razor.   In this case, the top 3 paint layers came off in one'

thick piece leaving only factory color and primer left behind.



Since  I had some extra time, I decided to add additional lights to my garage area.   Two 4000 lumens Led Shop Lights on Amazon for only $30 each were installed.


As you can see the two LED lights really brightened up the garage.  I will probably add a couple more to light the sides of the car when I am painting.IMG_2982.thumb.JPG.0c55f17fdf1e5782a004f0892cff4fbd.JPG


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

After waiting for my replacement dog leg panel for a month, I canceled my order with them.   I then ordered the panel from Z Depot instead.  It

came in one week.   Now I can finished up the corrosion repair.   I welded in the inner reinforcement panel and painted with welding



Now to fabricating the upper portion of the dog leg.

IMG_3038.thumb.JPG.c293b9e8629459b949b386d2d2275e1d.JPGFirst , a template must be made .

Using a metal shrinker , the upper dog leg portion is created.


With the upper portion mocked in, the next lower stepped area can made.   The picture below shows the dog leg and this stepped area



Next, the gap between the rocker panel and the dog leg must be filled.  Another template  for this gap is made.


There is six separate bends that required.   Even with a template, mistakes can happen.  Just straighten it out and rebend it.


Sometimes even with metal brake, you have to use "red neck" technology to get the job done.


Almost finished, the patch and dog leg ready to be welded.   The wheel opening end won't be welded yet as the new flare size has yet to be determined.


Edited by toolman
add pic

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

  I almost made a mistake.   When I was watching a video of 240z replacement of its rocker panel, I realized that my rocker panel had to be longer.  So I constructed a new longer rocker panel  section.  This is a photo of what I can up with.

IMG_3076.thumb.JPG.87433057d2fcf1a756f16ddff63b9a62.JPGBasically it is just longer than the old one.


But the new rocker also had to be "capped" at the rear.


 Interior view of the new rocker panel.


This pics shows  the rocker panel welded in place.


Now, templates were made to construct front upper and side step for the dog leg.  This required  three separate metal pieces to make this complex shape.


Used a oxygen/acetylene torch with 1/16" steel rod as the metal was so thin.


 The finished front upper section of the door leg( three separate pieces of sheet metal welded together).


The welded section was then welded to original dog leg and then painted with welding primer.


Edited by toolman

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

  This weekend. I started on the corrosion on the upper section of the right quarter panel.


This area was little heavier gauge(about 20 gauge) but had to be removed.


The removed area, in this case, was about 5".


  Just the left of the front cut is the connecting area of the quarter panel and the roof.   This joint was welded then lead soldered at the factory.IMG_3120.thumb.JPG.3827723d2f42eb906c3039e76144fdcc.JPGAll of the lead solder must be removed before work

can be done.  When this car was manufactured, using lead for the roof joints was common practice( even on US made cars).


 A template was made to provide reference points when reconstructing this area.  In this case, the template was copied from the opposite (right

side) and image reversed.



The drip rail patch was constructed using several paper templates.


Note: both front and rear ends of the patch have extra material to allow welding to original metal.


If you notice that I marked directions on my work,  it is because it is easy to get confused and place the patch the wrong way.


The lower portion of the patch welded the body.

5add7eeccc03b_IMG_3104(1).thumb.JPG.41441ad5a29c1383ca17e7f77a304c37.JPGNote: The drip rail is made taller and will be grinded down after everything is completed.


The seams in the interior of the patched area were tack welded to increase strength.  Then painted with welding primer.








Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Today was the first day that my Z was turned around in the garage.   It has been over 1 year since the restoration started.   During that time,

I was looking for another 240z or even a parts car.   Because of our high humidity and being surrounded by saltwater,  the 240Zs that I looked at

were real "rust buckets".   Only consolation that I have is that nobody here (that I know of) has went through such a complete restoration.IMG_3141.thumb.JPG.28fd46cc3c78b6f2cbae25c87f400f75.JPG

The Z finally turned around in my garage.


Only the right side of roof, rear panel and right quarter  left to strip the paint off.


Managed to finished the upper left quarter panel patch.IMG_3135.thumb.JPG.411b519fa9941411816c4802ad21594c.JPG

The dip rail was made of 20 gauge metal.  urethane seam seal will seal the drip rail after epoxy priming the whole car.IMG_3136.thumb.JPG.093854e066134ec07c714651c5d8f29b.JPGBottom view of patch



Interior view of patch


For extra protection, I used a 1/2" Blair hole saw to drill rust proofing access holes.  A bendable magnet is used to recover the drilled out piece.  The 1/2" plastic plug will seal the hole after rust proofing treatment is done.


   The rustproofing hole is just forwarded of the repaired area.   Also, it will allow rust proofing of the hatch hinge area(another corrosion point).   More access holes will drilled in potential corrosion areas through out the car.  Rust proofing will performed only after final color painting .

   Thanks again for your praise.   Most people do not realize how much work there is for 47 year old vehicle restoration.

Edited by toolman

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

The next corrosion target was the rear hatch upper panel.

IMG_3145.thumb.JPG.498876e74c88e1b9b519d6d7e251958a.JPG Not a pretty sight.  This is a common corrosion area for the 240Z.   Left side view


Right side view

IMG_3162.thumb.JPG.49ca62f2e351ad0be4bf20ac3c19ce31.JPGoverall view of rear hatch upper panel


Looks like I will be very busy this weekend!!



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I must say it really is impressive to see your level of commitment, patience and attention to detail on this restoration -- very impressed with your metal work and fab skills.


Kudos for bringing this old girl back to life!!  :2thumbs:

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is a photo of the left side of the rear hatch panel after media blasting.



Made template for patch for left side.



IMG_3180.thumb.JPG.36ebc4a742193f9b02eb744754d24535.JPGRight side template


Had to even to use a Dremel to hard to cut tight areas.



Right side dog leg section finished.  I utilized a gas torch and butt welded the joints to provide a smoother finish.




Left lower section finished.

Still working on the horizontal panel between both quarter panels.



Also, repaired this hole by butt welding with gas torch with 1/16 steel rod.




Butt welding provides a finished surface requiring very little body filler.   With a Tig welder, you can get away sometimes with no filler at all.   But the patch must close fitting thus time consuming.



Edited by toolman
add pic and corrections

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I found similar corrosion  on the right side door dogleg.   Had remove more of this side rocker panel due to rust.


The wheel housing also had to patched.  In my opinion, this type of wax type of rustproofing was not thin enough to get in those tight cervices and pockets.   


Also, the use of weldable primer will help to prevent corrosion from the mig welding process.


The pictures show the sections of patches for this repair.  Only the upper left section is left over from the original rocker panel.  The other

three parts will be fitted together like a puzzle.


A different view of the patch sections to give a better idea of the different sections.



Utilized 20 gauge metal for the wheel housing patch to resist corrosion.


Marking a template for the curved section of dogleg.   This is the second patch for this section because I had cut the upper potion of the original

curved section to allow welding of the rocker panel.   Also, still have do more welding of patches.   Waiting for the replacement corner section of the dog leg

from Z Depot which cost almost $100 because of freight.  We call it the "Paradise Tax".


Edited by toolman

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

While waiting for the replacement dog leg panel to arrive,  I decided to add an additional drain hole in rear area of the inner rocker panel.

A corresponding hole will added to the replacement panel which goes over the rocker panel.

IMG_3234.thumb.JPG.0c5ce8d808ee04ec80781e50cda2847e.JPG Also, as the wheel housing side will be open till flaring

I will spray seam sealer to protect this area from corrosion.

IMG_3232.thumb.JPG.4ff707389a03e3fe55ddb1143b9c889d.JPGReplacement panel ready to be welded on.



I found additional corrosion on the bottom front edge of the fuel filler door area.IMG_3237.thumb.JPG.44d7a3f63027f9e427e9e2f713816df5.JPG

Additional corrosion was discovered on the innerbox section too.


A template was made to create a sheet metal patch.



This photo shows the inner fuel filler box corrosion.



The replacement section had to hammer formed to match the original.



The exterior replacement panel  being mocked up before shaping work.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



The contour of the inner edge was time consuming.  Utilizing a large c-clamp and pieces of 1/4" steel plate to make a temporary screw press.

As you can  see, the method is very effective and very low cost.


Guide lines and position marks are very important  for correct alignment.


The patch was ducted taped to the quarter panel and fuel filler was test fitted before welded on.


The patch was welded on and painted with welding primer.








The fuel filler door  was doubled checked on the exterior patch.



The exterior patch was also tack welded from the inside.  It will be seam sealed after media blasting to prevent corrosion.



Edited by toolman
additional infor

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

While working on this Z, one problem that coming up was the presence of wax type of rustproofing.    Even when I tried to clear the rustproofing around the area of repair, it sometimes would melt and spoil my weld.   I tried scrapping and using lacquer thinner but it still was not effective.  One of body shop guys told to try Barbeque Lighter Fluid.   So I bought some from Walmart.  It was only $3 a quart.   Well. it works good as it does not evaporate as fast as lacquer thinner and allows time to soften the rustproofing.  A stiff parts brush also helps also.  The fluid doesn't seem to leave a residue too.  For areas with thick rustproofing,  use a plastic scraper to remove the heavier deposits first then use the fluid.

IMG_3294.thumb.JPG.4f66e06ba662413df0649adf2fc8d50a.JPGPic of rustproofing on the inside of left quarter panel

IMG_3293.thumb.JPG.26c315a7e72582394e156319f1e797d2.JPGLighter Fluid

After cleaning with lighter fluid, the seams were scrapped out with thin scraper.  A 1000 degree heat gun was also used to soften the seam sealer.

IMG_3296.thumb.JPG.82b4e9cc7099fd5cfa488a34a7ead448.JPGLeft rear quarter panel pocket 


Right side pocket after cleaning.  Brushed on OSHO in the seams then neutralized it after 24 hours.


Lighter fluid seems it work well and allow me to remove the factory seam sealer in the panel.  Have not decided  on what type of rustproofing to use after painting though.


Edited by toolman

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

While cleaning up the blast media in the car,  I found a lot of rubbish and media stuck in the boxed sections of the Z.

IMG_3330.thumb.JPG.fb98cff63badbbf6295163752d8792f9.JPGThis rubbish was in the upper frame tube alone.


So I decided to drill 1/2" holes in those hard as access areas for two purposes: allow blast media to be removed after blasting.  Second: to

allow rustproofing in those areas.


Rear quarter panel dog leg/ wheel housing area is not accessible  without this hole here.

IMG_3326.thumb.JPG.53d2111e9cb2785f74575ff81723d873.JPGFront door post / upper frame tube area-eight access

holes were drilled.


IMG_3327.thumb.JPG.4c3c3becb80144e8dfdc881e712461a0.JPGUpper frame area

IMG_3331.thumb.JPG.632d7347515ecd6dfc4780d1276a9198.JPGRocker panel area

About 14- 1/2" access holes were drilled on each side of the car.   These holes will be capped with rust proofing plugs after wet media blasting and epoxy priming.


Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Spent most of the Holiday weekend, rewelding welds and patching small corrosion holes.   But managed to finish the inside fuel filler box and mount 

it.  I used four 5/32" machine bolts to mount it to the quarter panel.   Their heads had to be grinded down to clear the filler door movement.


Also, have to fab two small rubber snubbers to prevent contact when closing door.



Most of the Z has almost all of factory paint, primer and undercoating completely removed down to the bare metal.   Spray can primer was

applied to prevent rust.  The whole car will wet media blasted then painted with epoxy primer,






Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

While cleaning the cowl area, I discovered another rust spot[hopefully the last one) in the extreme left side of the cowl.   Anyone who has the cowl panel off the car should check these area carefully for signs of corrosion.    Most people do not realize that majority of the rain water coming off the front of the roof enters the cowl area then drains down the door post pass the front fender.    Combined with dirt, leaves and other debris, corrosion begins.


The rust is difficult to see (above half way down from top) on the upper edge of reinforcement plate.


Pic of corrosion cut out-view from the interior side of cowl


Osho  was shot under the reinforcing plate to prevent further rust.   One edge of the patch was pushed under this plate then

the patch was welded in from the cowl side.   But because the cowl support rib was blocking any work, the spot welds of the rib had to be drilled out.   It was still difficult to use the mig because of the confined space.  Of coarse, after epoxy priming, all seams and air ducts will sealed with urethane seam sealer.




IMG_3346.JPGHidden corrosion repaired

Edited by toolman

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

I had planned to wet media blast the car this weekend.   Unfortunately my 3000PSI gas powered pressure washer didn't cooperate.

Took a day to get it running which screwed up my time frame.   This is because after wet media blasting, there is a 72 hour time limit to

epoxy paint the car before corrosion sets in.    With a 24 hour drying time, there is not too much time for error.   Also, the weather also

has to cooperate too.    So I decided to put blasting on hold until  the next weather window opens up.   Instead did some welding inside of rear

hatch panel.

IMG_3361.thumb.JPG.e7b144e3b10d7fce1089562365a43e7b.JPGRight rear hatch panel-inside view

IMG_3363.thumb.JPG.6bb2b3e9eb6b85c5fe5662e3966c29f9.JPGCenter of Rear Hatch Panel-inside view


Left Rear Hatch Panel- view from inside


Overall Top view of Hatch Panel.    I decided to use a different method of attaching the top replacement hatch panel.   The new replacement

panel is even constructed of 20 gauge metal.  I have not seen a 240Z that didn't have some corrosion under this panel.   So I decided to use a metal to metal automotive epoxy to hold this panel on.   The epoxy will also seal the panel from water getting  under it and rusting.

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

This is the bottom view of the replacement hatch panel.  It was mocked on and the outer edge was traced with a black marker pen.  The area 

below the line will grind with a 50 grit sander.   Existing rear panel matching area was sanded.  Adhesive must thoroughly cover all grinded areas.



The Lord Fusor metal to metal structural adhesive was used to bond the replacement top panel to the existing rear panel.



The panel is installed and bonded.  A dozen vise grips are utilized to hold the panels together until curing is done(in this case about 8 hours).


Note-the vise grips are all numbered with corresponding numbers on tape located on the panel.  These adhesives usually have a fast setup time

so preadjusting the vise grips was done.


The next day the vise grips and excess adhesive was removed from the edges.


All the seams will be sealed after epoxy priming.


The Lord Fusor structural adhesive costs about $50 and special applicator gun runs about $50 too.  This adhesive is OEM approved

products and even crash tested.

This post was rather long so let me know and I try to keep posts shorter.






Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now