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toolman

Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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ZHoob2004,  Can I ask you why you need to use sprayable seam sealer?     If you are just trying to duplicate the spray texture of the seam sealer, there are several methods to create that spray on texture.   I can post text and pics to show you how to do it.

                                                                                                                                     Toolman

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Did some body work on the rear panel.

IMG_3663.thumb.JPG.b7046374fdb01a6ef45115ed6ffc55e0.JPG

 

Small dents on roof were found.

IMG_3661.thumb.JPG.86315ac7682e337b2bd9299ee2b4f1d1.JPG

 

Left

rear dog leg body worked.

IMG_3670.thumb.JPG.d42bda252c2d800f1226c688e966d010.JPG

 

Right rear dogleg bodtworked.

IMG_3669.thumb.JPG.1a57eead51bce42ee4cd02adc58cf417.JPG

 

Tools used for seam sealing Cowl Area: round mirror, acid brush attached to a screwdriver and a acid brush with the bristles

cut in half to make it stiffer.

IMG_3672.thumb.JPG.b22f54ebf59830a42f84a2f2b8fb0fde.JPGLacquer thinner can to used to

thin the seam sealer to make it easier to apply.

The cowl area was seam sealed with the Fusor sealer.

IMG_3673.thumb.JPG.11f61d7c1a2059c195c5be261fb90d53.JPG

 

The exterior of the duct was seam sealed.

 

Even the interior of the duct was seam sealed( the top cover must be drilled out and removed to access inside).

IMG_3675.thumb.JPG.eb134b27eab24dfe2c80bd35d9d42f44.JPG

 

Left rear dog after body work-painted with poly primer.

IMG_3679.thumb.JPG.b9bb49b48ffd1207962d3c668086947c.JPG

 

Right rear dogleg also poly primed after body work

IMG_3681.thumb.JPG.26329e5954c19e7f3a5e6d597b803f19.JPG

 

The fuel filler section was attached to the quarter panel using Evercoat # 100823 seam sealer which is a two part epoxy seam sealer.

IMG_3685.thumb.JPG.62654bd7d5677ed042913d2abe7d4ab6.JPGOutside view of fuel filler section.

 

IMG_3687.thumb.JPG.aba7143fa38806422ca97c2b1c2ae782.JPGinside view of filler section.  The Evercoat # 100823 sealer was used because it has epoxy properties that resist damage from gasoline spillage when fueling.

   The doors will probably be the next thing to be worked on.   Once I strip down the doors, I know how much work that has to be done on them.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by toolman
corrections

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ZHoob2004,   To create a textured pattern on your seam sealer, you must be creative.   First , you must use a plastic bondo spreader to spread the seam sealer into a wide flat area.

IMG_3692.thumb.JPG.81d78f9a3324c09ab235baa49b5318e6.JPGIMG_3693.thumb.JPG.7fc3eebabc127576c200c1d00028672c.JPGusing an acid brush, you poke the sealer to achieve the

texture that you want.

Second method is to use a blow gun and just blow the sealer from various distances and different patterns( zigjag, circles,etc)

IMG_3694.thumb.JPG.de41ef5dfd09155f506ab1790e0049e4.JPG

 

You can also change the texture by thinner to the sealer(changing its thickness)..

IMG_3701.thumb.JPG.7db80a97281355a61f30054476b3d897.JPG

 

You can use combs, small dust brooms, almost anything to create different textures.   It is better if you apply the sealer in the normal manner and let the sealer dry overnight before performing texture techniques over it.   Sealing the seam is the more important function than cosmetic.

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   I made a small tent out of blue tarp outside my rollup garage door.  It will serve as a temporary sand blasting booth for the doors.

 

 

IMG_3720.thumb.JPG.cf1bc27d05114411c51ade62c94fc84a.JPG

 

With the garage door closed, the booth will keep the blasting media outside the garage.  With the door on a work table and a 1000 Lumen

work light provides a decent working area.

IMG_3721.thumb.JPG.2824cffd75adf1226362650dd9326d60.JPG

 

Snadblasting was used those hard to get areas( everything but the flat exterior portion).   This pic shows the right rear bottom door edge.

IMG_3722.thumb.JPG.f80cbcd506b8ec7652b6d09153c72fd4.JPG

 

This view show the front bottom edge of the door.   Note-this patch was put in about 43 years ago.   I bent the lower edge of the patch and

flatted the edge and tacked both edges with brass rod using a torch.   I drilled additional 1/4" drain holes to provide more drainage.  

IMG_3723.thumb.JPG.25e19e807fe5d4f5afd0d085a35e9cf7.JPG

 

Only corrosion found was located above the rear portion of the old patch.   This area was cut out and new patch will be made. 

IMG_3742.thumb.JPG.c41729e08df54d6e2f133aba73dc9e10.JPG

 

The exterior paint on the door was removed by  scrapping using  a razor blade.

IMG_3724.thumb.JPG.635a9075376a860ffae72b0bd1619810.JPG

This method usually doesn't work on the factory paint and primer only overcoats.

IMG_3728.thumb.JPG.fa647dacacfa5368bc4dc46777c8084f.JPG

  My car was painted three times over the factory paint ( original Orange).

 The interior portion of the door was sand blasted because of its uneven surfaces.   Paint remover was not used because of the mess it creates.

IMG_3736.thumb.JPG.3cc64d884637aa919e4d6b119d644a19.JPG

 

A felt pen was used to make the dents on the exterior of the door panel.

IMG_3737.thumb.JPG.b969bacce3f22f8e62444fa55b513fa5.JPG

 

A H & S stud gun was utilized to weld the pulling studs to the panel.

IMG_3739.thumb.JPG.246788781bb1cdbf4cbdc906bfad9563.JPG

 

 Then a small sliding hammer pulls up the dents up.  Body filler finishes the process.

IMG_3740.thumb.JPG.8b184483a7894bc48245f1dccde9d10c.JPG

 

   

 

Edited by toolman
corrections

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After plugging the  1/8" side molding holes with the mig welder,  the welds were grinded with 3" 3M mig weld grinding wheels.   These wheels

are best at grinding mig welds.

IMG_3749.thumb.JPG.1b3753f5e26f4f5167037e14c6a2c75b.JPGIts narrow surface allows of only the beads

 

Then the welds are finished off with 24 Grit grining discs on a right angle die grinder.

IMG_3750.thumb.JPG.766f6e24dd3d2f179c354a20778e6e12.JPG

 

Overall view of dent repair on the door panel.

IMG_3751.thumb.JPG.d40e812ad9b4d5249d31ae0d62963737.JPG

 

I made a template for the patch on the door corner.

IMG_3752.thumb.JPG.9c99d1985adfb7e4990def42daa99a7d.JPG

outside view of patch

IMG_3759.thumb.JPG.8d648aa59f118c05a13f146c687112aa.JPG

Inside view of patch

IMG_3755.thumb.JPG.9858108dcb511e3765a5e1f91acd3bea.JPG

 

At this point,  I decided to make it into a Reverse Patch which is a patch installed from the inside not from outside.  this method allows the patch to be lower than the original panel.   Then, only a small amount of body filler is required.

 

Problem of holding the patch inside of door tight space had to overcome.   I bent a 3/16" steel rod to hold the patch against edge of hole while tack welding.

IMG_3764.thumb.JPG.424d6a3f45de69aa2967d2478f6e4d94.JPG

 

One end of the rod was inserted into a nearby rust proofing hole and placed against the patch.   A downward motion

of the vise grip puts pressure against the patch.   After tacking. I just move the inner tip for the next area to be tack weld.

IMG_3771.thumb.JPG.0123c961e59490d785ea34b371ac214b.JPG

This method is similar to the procedure used by Paint less Dent repairers.

 

Evercoat epoxy seam sealer was applied to door panel seams.

IMG_3772.thumb.JPG.947b2804d0cb6ffcd76dec7cf8654e25.JPGfront lower edge

 

IMG_3773.thumb.JPG.66f3852bf2f3feb6c56cc88fc903a97b.JPGRear lower door edge sealed

 

Unfortunately,  we had a Category 5 (winds above 150mph) Hurricane heading straight toward the Hawaiian Islands

so I had to prepare for the storm and was unable to finish the door.   Fortunately, the Hurricane turned away at the last

minute and only gave us heavy rainfall.

 

 

 

Edited by toolman
added more stuff, corrections

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It took some time to sand blast the interior side of the door panel.   So a 4 1/2 right angle grinder with a cup wire wheel was used for paint removal before sand blasting.

IMG_3778.thumb.JPG.3086679a81cbedabfd2b03458880c5c4.JPGThe grinder saved about half a day sand blasting.

 

With a bottom edge peeled open, the extensive corrosion can be seen.

IMG_3781.thumb.JPG.ea84a0c5bde97efe9ca9a530d2d5d27e.JPG

 

A  4 1/2" cutoff wheel was used to cut off about 1" below the lower body line.

IMG_3784.thumb.JPG.fe1e8c24e05ae387dd0cb149464cc72f.JPG

 

With the cut made. the corrosion can easily seen.

IMG_3786.thumb.JPG.e895da5f633f622247589dcee098543b.JPG

 

After wire brushing the area. the patch can be constructed.

IMG_3790.thumb.JPG.22e0cf5f410eb2d1c31511ba99f9ce15.JPG

About  5/16" additional metal for the lip that folds around the panel lower edge.

IMG_3791.thumb.JPG.0918cd647c1a12b4ad8965af8fdd36e9.JPG

This is the front side of the patch.

 

IMG_3794.thumb.JPG.29be0b354fed89de0b1dbbfae6eb4a52.JPG

The patch was attached to the door skin with sheet metal screws.  Then was mig welded and seam sealed.

IMG_3795.thumb.JPG.15088b4b9cb091d2a3d5359ef5d08a17.JPG

A 1/2" holes were drilled with Blair hole saws in the both lower corners of the doors.  They provided access for rustproofing later.   A 1/8" drill bit

was used to provide a pilot for the hole saws because of the uneven shape of the panel.    These holes were plugged using 1/2" rust proofing

plastic plugs after rust proofing.   These areas are prone to corrosion and must be rust proofed.

IMG_3796.thumb.JPG.8448a0bb07fd70e5e440917f4a182359.JPG

The fold over edges will be tack weld and seam sealed.   All of the welded areas( including molding holes) will cleaned and painted with epoxy primer.

 

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Both doors were completed of corrosion repair and were epoxy primed.   The small dents will tended to later.

IMG_3806.thumb.JPG.806dbfa87c3b5711e4cda0fa1da2c22e.JPG

IMG_3807.thumb.JPG.d2a800f21e38109ca594d218b0353bb8.JPGNote-Additional drain holes made in lower door edge.

 

Underseal  on the underside of fender was removed with 1000 watt heat gun and hand scraper.  Just warm underseal first, then scrape the underseal off.

A auto body stand was used to support the fender while scrapping.   After scrapping the majority of the underseal off, the paint on the outside of the fender was removed.   Most of the paint came off by scrapping 

the paint using a razor blade.  The remainder will be sanded with 36 grit sandpaper then media blast off( note all the paint scrapping on ground).

IMG_3822.thumb.JPG.251fc3161ccf5db2831ca87732e9832e.JPG

 

The inside fender reinforcement had corrosion on the bottom area.

IMG_3818.thumb.JPG.a25191f069b5003c28f834332485440c.JPGThis is a common corrosion area. due to lack of drainage and no rustproofing.

The old metal fender flare was removed with an air saw.

IMG_3825.thumb.JPG.a943d33470c8e4550b401376e40f5896.JPG

 

A paper template was made to create a fender patch from.

IMG_3828.thumb.JPG.18ce72898f92f0b1fa444e5b0dc23223.JPG

 

..A metal shrinker was used to make the bend in the lower part of the fender

IMG_3832.thumb.JPG.e2c427e5d032c3a8900973042f7cf9fe.JPG

 

The patch was matched to the bend of the original fender so shrinking was done carefully to prevent over bending.

IMG_3833.thumb.JPG.0ce0e36e0977bf838cd65a8ed96ee480.JPG

 

The patch was test fit and shaped as needed.   This process was done many times.

IMG_3835.thumb.JPG.2a9516891f44b0aecf47931033e292fe.JPG

 

The patch on the reinforcement was test fitted.

IMG_3836.thumb.JPG.ca0cf88c067b56b77ea9079dc6425483.JPG

 

Tacking welding the reinforcement patch.

IMG_3837.thumb.JPG.737734e5d353e80f07b21475b13a7469.JPG

 

The outside patch welded on.

IMG_3838.thumb.JPG.5944a36dfca500f09bdd604cbaad0c7d.JPGAll welded and grinded.

 

Now the reinforcement patch can welded back to the fender.  Note-the fender edge was hammered back down.IMG_3839.thumb.JPG.5b1c81456d499dfc1cf80184a75ef1f1.JPG

All seams and welded areas will be seam sealed then sprayed with weld thru primer to prevent corrosion.  Additional rust proofing access holes will drilled in this area.

 

 

 

IMG_3815.JPG

Edited by toolman
add pic and corrections

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Matt 78Z.  It would be difficult to give you an estimate corrosion repair as the work would vary with amount of corrosion on each vehicle.

If you wondering how much my car's corrosion repair would cost: I would guess I spent about 1080 hours on just corrosion repair.

Auto Body Shops charge from $100-150 per hour.   Another factor to consider is the quality of workmanship.   Some shops just cover up the

rust and it comes back in couple months.   Ask other people to find shops that did good work for them.  I hope this information is helpful to you.

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I meant if you had paid someone to do your car to the extent your doing it, that adds up fast.  Cost of materials has to be added in as well.  We don't seem to have many shops that do true restorations like you are doing, that is a dying trade.  Most places do quick in and out insurance jobs.  I'm looking forward to seeing your car done, nice work.

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Although the corrosion didn't look too bad from the outside, the inside view showed a lot of corrosion on this fender.

IMG_3842.thumb.JPG.31eee59d7f9d606ab28dad48419d2197.JPG

 

The corrosion section was cut out with 4 1/2 grinder with 1/16" cutoff wheel.

IMG_3851.thumb.JPG.22e25023b1ef5de8eb074289a83c7938.JPG

This patch was put in about 40 years ago.   With the new sealers and rustproofing should improve the patch life.IMG_3853.thumb.JPG.1d9b5c4e592eda7210cbacd31afca657.JPGA paper template was made to create a new patch.

 

The rear fender brace also had corrosion damage.

IMG_3850.thumb.JPG.9c1526e8805f5626e407611417f5e06b.JPG

 

Sometimes, a pipe can be used to bend the fender patch.

IMG_3861.thumb.JPG.d8a2d06bb6946350475f65cf7f745e35.JPGSometimes no special tools are necessary.

 

A tear in the fender was repaired using an oxygen acetylene torch.   IMG_3857.thumb.JPG.d79b260b6370cf4a7e786b4387b36fce.JPG

 

This method produces a softer and durable weld than mig welding.

IMG_3858.thumb.JPG.5e7a766ad7e8416d918ece1c0722eab2.JPG

 

The front corner of the fender needed  patch to repair a tear there.

IMG_3866.thumb.JPG.0d7d59115e9364fb4e27f7547fd17ff1.JPG

 

The corner patch being welded in.

IMG_3867.thumb.JPG.8ac2cb95a2bb429efa0e1f877ae7cf87.JPG

 

The inside of both fenders were stripped of paint, underseal and rust proofing.   This process was very labor intensive and took a whole day 

to complete.   The fenders were then epoxy primed.  When the paint dries, the patches and any seams will be sealed.

IMG_3871.thumb.JPG.675690bcd6103699591e2b1b472580d6.JPG

 

Next weekend, The hood will be worked on.

 

Edited by toolman
corrections

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Before I started on the hood repair,  I seam sealed the fenders.IMG_3874.thumb.JPG.be6845bdf5d042b572dea1eaf4bae1dd.JPG

Both inside and outside of the front of both fenders were seam sealed.

As the rear bottom of the fenders had major corrosion problems, I decided to perform extra work to prevent future corrosion in the these areas.

IMG_3877.thumb.JPG.d566a7a10138058c189448183a46cbc4.JPGview of repaired lower rear fender section.

A 1/2" rust proofing hole is drilled in the lower portion of the fender.   Rust proofing can be shot into this area after the car is painted.

IMG_3885.thumb.JPG.232271a66542ff204123b00321896af3.JPGNote-This area was seam sealed

to direct any water and debris though the lower fender mounting hole.  Without this passage, water and debris would get

stuck between fender and reinforcing panel and cause corrosion.

This  backside view also shows the improved drainage method.

IMG_3893.thumb.JPG.9094c12cdaca2a8afef3b7969156fb0d.JPG

 

Paint stripping of the hood was started by using wire brush on a 4 1/2" right grinder.

IMG_3904.thumb.JPG.500b2afbb8b82d6a3fffc234da20f3b8.JPG

 

This is what factory original paint plus three other paint jobs looks like after stripping.

IMG_3907.thumb.JPG.592445dc60b56e2f6e5a74250b62bdfe.JPG

.

Made the paper template for the hood repair.

IMG_3908.thumb.JPG.40f28c73d7b92bb3d68c6d9512972e48.JPG

The spot welds around the hood area were drilled out for removal of the section.

IMG_3909.thumb.JPG.df931d364bb8db292e35574031c2c557.JPG

The hood section to be repaired was marked for cutout with 4 1/2 grinder..

IMG_3910.thumb.JPG.42ae6baec5d1e3780e508f06bc1536c9.JPG

 

IMG_3912.thumb.JPG.d1525ad14819a19b967f2cd80b20fd5e.JPGPanel cut out and removed to allow panel repair.

The hood edge was straightened using a 1/2" steel square bar and couple of c-clamps.

IMG_3913.thumb.JPG.cdc634832855817f845bab50c9890b0e.JPG

 

IMG_3917.thumb.JPG.e7b41b35d78c00b4b9abde42831e1556.JPG

The top of the hood panel was straightened with body hammers and dollies.

 

The repaired section was fitted on hood many times to check "fitness".

IMG_3920.thumb.JPG.b8c75a85b874917db5b4f3236b2d0898.JPG

 

1" strips of sheetmetal was installed on the hood to provide support for the repaired section to be welded to.

IMG_3923.thumb.JPG.6610911b2abbf84cfa4481d7d92a8121.JPGWeld on primer was used to prevent corrosion on hood ribs.

The repaired section welded to the hood.

IMG_3924.thumb.JPG.29b0b27a2d4a4fac211e855f3f75d757.JPG

The completion of the hood repair was delayed as my mig Tweco gun went bad.   The trigger switch was the problem but 

it was not available anywhere so I had to order a whole new Tweco mig gun.   I am trying to do a  McGuyver repair so I can at least finish the hood so I am crossing my fingers!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by toolman
corections

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I finally received my replacement Tweco gun and lead.  It has a HD switch and gives me a better control of the mig wire.  Two

flat 3" wide copper strips were temporary installed under the hood butt weld.  It will disperse some of heat of the mig welding.

IMG_3914.thumb.JPG.e2f73146b59117c18ec4779cbfb2aaaf.JPG

 

A paper template of the bottom of the front bottom edge of the hood.

IMG_3908.thumb.JPG.30011ead556655eed6f769920e4d434f.JPG

 

Side view of the hood repair.

IMG_3918.thumb.JPG.c1218104e4ad2764256c86c8792e1604.JPG

 

A H&S Stud Welder was used with shrinking tip to shrink high spots found on the hood.  Note-the shrinking tip is round and flat.

IMG_3927.thumb.JPG.b6a802db4dc0128da71c64e0209f4354.JPG

It creates about 3/8" round red hot in the sheetmetal.  This spot is immediately cooled with a wet rag.  This action caused the spot to shrink.

 

The lower passenger side of the hood also had small dents which the stud welder pulled out.

IMG_3931.thumb.JPG.a483a7c10c9ce746ba9f0e9fa6d20ee7.JPG

  

After painting the hood with epoxy primer, I started work on the cowl section.   As this section is flimsy and vents are difficult to remove the paint,

paint remover was used.

IMG_3944.thumb.JPG.40ae65a759486c15ebafa2830c6b5266.JPG

Note-if you look carefully you can see the factory orange /red lead primer and the other three paint jobs on it.

The vent openings were difficult to remove the paint because of its narrowness and thick paint buildup.

 

Two 1/8" rust holes from the bottom side were found and carefully mig welded.

IMG_3946.thumb.JPG.a3c0d3d214830c8fad58a8df764fe794.JPG

 

This view shows the repair after grinding.

IMG_3948.thumb.JPG.ad43ee7bd62fc1016da6932916db4893.JPG

 

The cowl was then epoxy primed.

IMG_3951.thumb.JPG.b06877e458f7b9fcb4e1118d0e2e3610.JPGNote-Even after using the paint remover, media blasting was necessary to remove remaining paint before priming.

 

Finally the exterior of the two front fenders were epoxy primed.

IMG_3955.thumb.JPG.256c19efbb513c899edaaf80057f155c.JPG

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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When you are done, there will be so much time on your hands, you won't know what to do.  Good grief what a lot of work.  If this had to be done by a pro, it will be a mid 6 figure bill.  Great job.  I seem to have said this before on the thread.  Keep posting pictures, I hope I speak for others, we love to see the progress.  Richard. 

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Thanks, Richard,  I hope my posts will continue to be informative and useful.

  I found corrosion on the rear hatch  only  after disassembly.    Though mostly small areas and were easily repaired.   I decided not to replace

the aluminum louvers on the hatch so those mounting holes had to be patched.

IMG_4013.thumb.JPG.b23bf8832b5df8c67a516f34103cd2a9.JPGThe holes were 3/8" so 9/16" patches were created.

The lower pair of holes in the hatch were accessible from the backside.   The patch were held in place with a 1/8" x 3/4" steel bar.

IMG_4014.thumb.JPG.a4f4b29cc96914792e910b667b94eb14.JPG

Then were tack welded with the mig.

IMG_4025.thumb.JPG.6f66ffb9aa4daa7e8b5f30b697e925bf.JPG

 

IMG_4021.thumb.JPG.ab56fa9cccca953892559d99808f4f76.JPG

Pic of the patch grinded down.

 

The upper holes could not access from the back so the patch had to welded on the exterior,

IMG_4047.thumb.JPG.a8ceaebc4b2a068eb12bedd15369d6d8.JPG

 So the holes were tapped down with a ball peen so the hole area was recessed.

 

These patches were made by drilling 18 gauge sheet metal with a Blair 9/16" hole saw.   The 1/2" plug was used as the patch for these holes.

IMG_4048.thumb.JPG.8753f8a9b86a7efbd0890f546922daeb.JPG

 

Edited by toolman
corrections

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DonH, Thanks for compliment.   I finished the rear hatch and seam sealed all of the seams.

IMG_4063.thumb.JPG.cd844c67c7776392792530a54a9dd10b.JPG

.pic of the finished hatch.

IMG_4092.thumb.JPG.725971add14173a00e6329734609781a.JPG

 

.

Front area of the floor pan resealed with sprayable seam seal.

IMG_4093.thumb.JPG.eb873a65ce5583f23559e3987bf5fbbe.JPG

 

View of the main frame rail seam sealed.

IMG_4096.thumb.JPG.6cf20d826824423454b5ae913680d25c.JPG

 

closeup of seam sealing frame connector and rear crossmember.

IMG_4098.thumb.JPG.29b17962947372f77635c4776bd9b109.JPG

  

Rear frame and rear body panel seam sealed.

IMG_4099.thumb.JPG.e2bbc7b7a8cde486b1f6d404a2d6933f.JPG

 

I wanted to put more seam sealer on the bottom to provide more rust protection and sound abatement but ran out of sealer.   

I am going to the Sema Show in Vegas next week and will try to post some pics( especially 240zs) from there.

Edited by toolman

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There were hundreds of exhibitors and  attendance was probably more than 170,000.  I will attempt to give you guys a small sampling of the show at this show.

The winner of the Young Gun Builders of SEMA Show was  Kyle Kunhausen.  He spent 5 years building this early 240z in his home two car garage in Oregon.     Go to  https/www.youtube/watch?v=pCfLQHZgnCM&t=49s 

 

Bob Sharp  240Z race car

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General Motors had an ALL Electric motor powered Camaro on display.  It provides 800volt batteries.  The motor has

IMG_4239.thumb.JPG.2c35c87b1b1182a1beee70a3d1d75e28.JPG 700HP and 600 FTLB of Torque;

This Camaro can do the 1/4 Mile in 9 Seconds!!!

 

Shell Oil booth had a supercharged Tractor Puller.

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There were many Rat Rods there to demonstrate their creativity.  Here is a vintage service truck.

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Rear view of the cab and rear bed.

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This is spin off the original LITTLE RED WAGON wheelstanding truck that could carry the front wheels the full length of the strip.

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It was powered by a supercharged Dodge Hemi engine.

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From the You Tube videos, this 240Z had a BMW M5 V10 motor installed on custom made steel tubing frame.

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The front end utilized a Rocket Bunny front panel and fender flares.

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A universal rear fender flare kit covered the rear tires.

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The Street Banditos made a custom LED tail lights for this Z,

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Its construction can be seen on You Tube Videos- "B is for the Build".  The site has almost 500,000 subscribers.  It was entirely built in home garage in Portland, Oregon.

 

A really chopped and lowered Jeep with giant wheels and tires.

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A view of the large crowds of people outside of the main halls.

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A wild looking 65 Mustang with a supercharged motor in Pro Street form.

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IMG_4193.thumb.JPG.e8cefce3726bc9efc48192ca808b9798.JPGAir brush artists showing their skills.

El Dorado low rider with air bag suspension.

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I think this was a modified Miata with tube frame with supercharged motor.

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A Monster Truck with Giant Tires climbing rock display.

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This 58 Chevy has a very unique type of body work-metal paint engraving.  This process is spraying metal paint to 1.5M thick engraving the whole vehicle.  It is widely popular in Japan and Asia.  Thos car took over 6 months to complete.

But really expensive as it is extremely time consuming.  Enlarge the photos to see the workmanship.  Unreal!!!

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Another example of type metal engraving.    Don't forget to enlarge this pic to really see the workmanship.

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This 370Z was painted and body worked to replicate a beat up racer.   All those dents and scrapes were created.  They

created a Rat Rod Nissan Z to me.

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Only a keen eye would notice that gaps, edges, body panels were not distorted.   The paint job was manipulated to create

the worn and damaged effects.  Similar to what Rat Rods do.

 

IMG_4138.thumb.JPG.e54827560ed3bdc2dc2f4e96af6ed52e.JPGNissan Skyline Z was in Optima

Ultimate Street Car Event that raced around the county.

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Another Optima Race Z

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Not sure but think this Z had a LS motor with T56 trans.  The car was so low you couldn't see underneath.

 

There were about 10 Food Trucks all around the SEMA SHOW to provide a wide variety of food selections(Chinese,

Mexican, Middle Eastern, etc)

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Another LS Z Racer;

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Tires and wheel look small for the flares but looks like there was a lot of carbon fiber parts on it.

 

Ever wonder how the movie studios film those wild car chases and crashes.   A modified Toyota with computer controlled

360 degree crane on its roof, that is how!!

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HKS 370Z RACE CAR

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Auto Body & Paint section of the show( even had spray paint booths).

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WELD UP another one of their RAT ROD creations.  Note how the front end's black roses-represents death.  As you move

IMG_4186.thumb.JPG.6e531260fa568eb390575c0ebc212a92.JPGmove to the engine's red roses

represents love/hope.  Then to the rear of the car. the yellow bright paint job.white interior and white wall slicks represents clean/ purity.  This car was made for a cancer recovery individual.   Very Artistic!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by toolman
text correction, more pics

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                  SleeperZ,  Thanks,   Keep checking this post as I am still adding  more pics and text of the Show.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_9fN7ntWKAY&t=126s      Check this 2017 Nissan GTR out!!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4TqX-eWkWM&t=85s    2018 Sema Show Young Guns Winner

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU656s-qti0     overall view of Sema Show

 

IMG_4133.thumb.JPG.e4bd1f68d6be85f088974d6354d0c78c.JPGhuge fender flares

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B0q-fwwS9Vs    video of 58 Chevy with metal engraving in spray booth

IMG_4216.thumb.JPG.20c1e3049a6189bb803377b625b9026a.JPGFarm Truck from STREET OUTLAWS was there.

 

Edited by toolman
add pic

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I was at Sema as well. Such an amazing event. This was my very first time as well. I missed Kyles car as they moved it for the final judging. Tyler Powel Z06 was awesome to see, really great guy. I also spoke with Chris from B is for build.... awesome dude as well.

 

I have been following your thread and you have made some amazing progress.

 

Question for you, I am following the same process you are and making a whole new frame for my 240Z hellcat swap. The way you installed the frame rails under the car (NOT THE ENGINE) i noticed you cut the floors out and braced the car. I will be doing the same (already braced). Did you have any flex at all and is your car squared up properly? Any words of wisdom or advice before i start cutting this weekend.

 

I started my own thread showing the progress.

 

Thanks so much Jeff

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On ‎11‎/‎6‎/‎2018 at 5:30 PM, toolman said:
23 hours ago, 240zJJR said:

I was at Sema as well. Such an amazing event. This was my very first time as well. I missed Kyles car as they moved it for the final judging. Tyler Powel Z06 was awesome to see, really great guy. I also spoke with Chris from B is for build.... awesome dude as well.

 

I have been following your thread and you have made some amazing progress.

 

Question for you, I am following the same process you are and making a whole new frame for my 240Z hellcat swap. The way you installed the frame rails under the car (NOT THE ENGINE) i noticed you cut the floors out and braced the car. I will be doing the same (already braced). Did you have any flex at all and is your car squared up properly? Any words of wisdom or advice before i start cutting this weekend.

 

I started my own thread showing the progress.

 

Thanks so much Jeff

SleeperZ,  Thanks,   Keep checking this post as I am still adding  more pics and text of the Show.

240zJJR, First, Just check the squareness of interior?engine compartment before welding bracing in.   Usually you really don't know if the vehicle was in a previous accident or not.  In my case, I measured from the seat belt mounting hole crosswise to the lower door

hinge mounting hole.   Perform the same on the other side.  Your two measurements shouldn't vary more than 1/8" to 3/16".    After that.I made

3/16" plate to mount 1" X 1" steel tubing in a crossing diagonal pattern.   You can also weld  four 1" tubing from side to side and front to back if

you wish too.     I use this method for the engine compartment as I was removing the frame rails also.   You should measure frame length( front

to back)  especially when building a new front frame.    And, of coarse,  use a bubble level for front to back and side to side checks.   One thing

a lot of people forget the vehicle must be level to begin with(before any work is done).    I used 1/8" steel shims( or bigger if needed) tack welded

to the top of the jack stands to raise or lower the car.  Place bubble level on the rocker panels to check.   I hope this helps.   There are a lot of

people on this forum that will also help you.

                                                                                          Toolman

I twisted my back so haven't be able to work on my car for now.

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20 hours ago, toolman said:

240zJJR, First, Just check the squareness of interior?engine compartment before welding bracing in.   Usually you really don't know if the vehicle was in a previous accident or not.  In my case, I measured from the seat belt mounting hole crosswise to the lower door

hinge mounting hole.   Perform the same on the other side.  Your two measurements shouldn't vary more than 1/8" to 3/16".    After that.I made

3/16" plate to mount 1" X 1" steel tubing in a crossing diagonal pattern.   You can also weld  four 1" tubing from side to side and front to back if

you wish too.     I use this method for the engine compartment as I was removing the frame rails also.   You should measure frame length( front

to back)  especially when building a new front frame.    And, of coarse,  use a bubble level for front to back and side to side checks.   One thing

a lot of people forget the vehicle must be level to begin with(before any work is done).    I used 1/8" steel shims( or bigger if needed) tack welded

to the top of the jack stands to raise or lower the car.  Place bubble level on the rocker panels to check.   I hope this helps.   There are a lot of

people on this forum that will also help you.

                                                                                          Toolman

I twisted my back so haven't be able to work on my car for now.

Thanks you for your advice, We leveled the car before i braced it. I now have to go back and do all the measurements (my stupidity). I may be removing everything i have already done.....i pray i am within spec.

 

I followed your bracing pattern as well.... and did similar to your design (Plates on outside using door hinge and inside). My biggest concern is when you did the floors and one frame rail at a time, you cut the front rail away from the firewall.... does this cause any twisting? I don't think it matters if your doing one rail at a time, then leveling the car to do the front rails, should bring everything back to where it needs to be?

 

I also cross braced the rear strut tower to strut tower. Not show here. And went from outside door bar to center console for extra rigidity.

 

 

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Edited by 240zJJR

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