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Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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Posted (edited)

Thanks,  Guys

     After getting the Air Compressor parts, I did a complete overhaul on the FS Curtis D96A compressor pump.



Replaced Intake and Exhaust Valves, new Head Gasket, new Piston Rings and new Con Rod Bearings.


After the Compressor was repaired, The Greddy Rocket Bunny Flares were installed.  On Ebay, Z Spec Design had their Rocket Bunny

Kit Installation kit for $90.



These tools were used to install the Flares.



The Cleco  Clamps were utilized to hold the Flares in place while drilling.


The Drill drilled the mounting holes into the Flares.   Also, it drilled the Body side for the Threaded Nutserts.

IMG_1355.JPG.fa79bd668a4501f2bfaaa229428472b3.JPG Drilling the Flare


IMG_1356.JPG.3128fd8bfa0bdd8b07a29f06d90c9821.JPG Drilling Body for Nutserts.


I added a 11" extensions of 1" square tubing to the Nut Setter( lengthening its arms gave it additional leverage).

IMG_1407.JPG.404ee0545fec7e9eafe83a72a802d5e9.JPG  IMG_1357.JPG.388900ba12a7221a460fac4e319874a0.JPG

IMG_1358.JPG.e6fd2c96f4858ad15a66f556f6b46736.JPG Threaded Nut installed.


I recommend all insets be rethreaded.  Sometimes the inserts are distorted during installation.



IMG_1363.JPG.6c7c1cb8f18ba8fc8a80591c888852c3.JPG    Installed


The Paint and Materials for this car was about $2000(Jobber Cost).  Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Poyurethane paint(Basecoat) and CC2000 Clear Coat were used.   I also used the 3M TRiZ Sanding system which consists of P1000, 1500 and P3000 Velco Sandpaper was utilized too.  This method reduced the polishing times drastically.













Next thing to do:   Installing Front and rear Suspension on the car.  Happy Fourth of July Holiday to everyone!!


Edited by toolman
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Posted (edited)

  I had planned to assemble the Front and Rear Suspension to the Z but decided to work on the interior parts first.

2062227389_IMG_1424(1).JPG.0db532e37f80bf65a341bbef06dbab57.JPG   Door Glass Regulator was cleaned and lubricated.


1559139890_IMG_1421(1).JPG.43e778e01aad5b27cfd7a738e2336ce3.JPG   The Door Glass had a lot of Water Spots from being parked outside.


These Water Spots were removed with #000 Steel Wool and Hand Rubbing Compound.

1588012735_IMG_E1417(1).JPG.7080e0ea4f871abace3a2df3e995af82.JPG Rub in a Circular Pattern to remove all the spots.


1742009712_IMG_1416(1).JPG.7d970678cf1bf9f13391017802c0d926.JPG   Looked like Brand New Door Glass.


IMG_1415.JPG.6ac4ea3b76ec3c4a5e01da04afef5cd7.JPG   Before  Disassembly and Rebuild.


Tools used to rebuild the Quarter Glass: Plastic Glass Tool. Rubber Hammer. Tire Lube Brush. and 1/8" Nylon Rope.



One area of reassembly was the 1/4 Window Glass Frame.   Because of the New Weather Stripping. squeezing the Frame together posed a

problem.   This was solved by wrapping a 1/8" Nylon Rope around the frame and 3/8" x 6" Bolt.   Twisting the bolt between the rope will cause the rope to get tighter and tighter.   This action will squeeze the frame together and allow the installation of the frame screws.



Now, check the corner of the 1/4 frame with the long ends.

IMG_1469.JPG.bcac88d60d2f05ff324b818c05352727.JPG  Note-A strip of Rubber added to the Frame.  This Rubber Strip fills the gap so the Outer Weather Stripping Gasket does not leak.   Check the Old OEM weather stripping.  It

probably has a similar rubber strip that is not included with the replacement weather stripping.


The Outer !/4 Glass Weather stripping was attached with Contact Cement ,  Use a Acid brush to apply the Glue.   Apply the Contact Cement to Both Sides (gasket and the Frame).   Make to allow the glue to dry for 10 to 15 minutes before sticking them together.



Wrap the1/8" Nylon Rope tightly again around the Weather Stripping and then knot it so it holds till the cement dries.


Installation of the Assembled  1/4 Glass on the car usually requires two persons.  As the Glass must be pushed both rearward into the body and

inward to attach the mounting screws.

IMG_1473.JPG.90ba91f4640d7b3bab7a463f1062103d.JPG  Installation Complete.


The 1/4 Glass Frame was painted with Sem Products Trim Paint Black to match the Race Car Theme.







In this case, the Bumper Guard and Bumper Rubber Strips Holes were going to be welded closed to provide a more Clean Look.



!/8" Steel Plugs were cut and fitted into the holes before welded.



IMG_1440.JPG.24b04957c5b5535587b4c36301e73958.JPG  Welded Holes after Grinding


IMG_1458.JPG.248349598093bfd798e0ab4b63d5afe2.JPG Bumper Parts Poly Urethane Primered.




Single Stage Black Polyurethane Paint was used to paint the Bumper Parts.


Bumper Installed on car 

IMG_E1486.JPG.c7e6f09b95aa26a2d7734a2818ac7c02.JPG Side View


IMG_E1487.JPG.782615795b342f1e3c05852465a4f4dd.JPG   Center View






Edited by toolman
add text ,add pics.correction

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Posted (edited)

EF Ian, 

      Yes, In the Old Days, rechroming bumpers was a common procedure.   But now days because of the toxic byproducts and mostly the cost,  only limited  automotive chroming is done.   You can also use a a torch and braze the holes.  Then grind it smooth with 24 grit paper.  The rechromers will first apply copper plating then chrome plate it.  I would have powercoated the bumper but the center section would not fit in my small oven.   PowderCoating  powder to do this bumper would cost only about $13.

Edited by toolman
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Posted (edited)

   My Weather Stripping Kit from Zdepot arrived just in time.  It costed about $300 but was high

quality and fitment was good.



IMG_1457.JPG.7a24e58e13abc205616d8a8a9c5b06d5.JPG  kit parts list


  The Hatch Weather Stripping was installed with 3M Super Weather Stripping Adhesive.  I found

the older yellow version to hold better than the newer Black Version.


Note-Be sure to let the adhesive to dry(5 - 10 minutes) or until "tacky".   Then hold both together for

at an hour.   I used masking tape and duct tape.

IMG_1545.JPG.fcb4a85db3f928077bbb1bc408807cfb.JPG on weather stripping


IMG_1541.JPG.7e8620556bff31d3defc71f3b8920fd3.JPG  on body edge then hold together.







   When installing New Replacement Door Weather Stripping, if you having trouble closing the door even after

adjustment, you try this tip.   I rigged up a 1/8" steel cable connected to the inside seat belt mounting

hole.   Put a Turn Buckle in between the mount and cable.   The other end was attached to the latch side of the door.   A 3/4" x 2" board was utilized inside of the door to prevent damage to door.  


The operation is simple-Turn the Turn Buckle to shorten the cable.  This will force the door

to squeeze the weather stripping tight.   Remember to remove the latch plate on the quarter

panel otherwise maximum force will not be achieved.  The weather stripping must be squeezed a lot to compensate

for the"rebound factor".

 293267515_IMG_1504(1).JPG.3913c87fa6223e55d60a6d341cca9ea9.JPG seat belt mount side

IMG_1499.JPG.7988654350e130b39e20adc9bda4a5f0.JPG  door anchor side of cable-note board inside the door



 Another tip- To cut the excessive door weather stripping, a 4 1/2" right angle grinder with a

1/32" cutoff wheel was used because the door weather stripping contains a metal webbing



IMG_1510.JPG.93c1f51879a31ac6a9f671af14d2baf5.JPG cross section of door weather stripping


Another tip:   When Powder Coating. I sometimes use a piece of cardboard to hold screw and bolts 

while sandblasting.

IMG_1511.JPG.2e827b21e81bb60b7ba6f20a49e1ea87.JPG Next to the parts, their location was written to aid

in assembly.

To hang screws, bolts and washers while baking the powder coat, .030 Stainless Aircraft Safety Wire

is used.




This zig zag type of hanger is utilized to keep parts apart when baking.


Rethreading of all Powder Coated items is necessary as the Powder Coating will add additional

material to them.



Edited by toolman
correct text, add pics

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I'm interested to know how the Precision weatherstripping has worked out for you since these strips are well documented to have issues.

  • Too much silicone in the rubber makes the adhesive not stick to it
  • Too thick... Rear hatch and doors don't close flush

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idiot280,   I don't think the Precision Weatherstripping is made with Silicone in it.   But they probably coated their rubber molds with silicone for easy removal of the weather stripping.   I always wipe the areas down where the adhesive is going with lacquer thinner before glueing.

    The Precision Weatherstripping is well made but is "Fatter" than the original 240z one.   So you might have readjust your door and hatch

latches to allow them to close.  The rubber will eventually wear in.  Or if you can not wait for it to wear in, construct a similar "pull cable"  that I made for the doors and put heavy weight on the hatch.  But remember to remove the latches so they can compress the rubber more.

.   Also, if you still have problems with the weather stripping  not sticking, use clamps or similar tools to hold the rubber down.   Especially around the corners, the adhesive on the rubber must contact the adhesive on the body.  I always check

this by tugging on the rubber after an a hour after application.


I hope this information helps you.

Edited by toolman
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