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toolman

Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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Posted (edited)

Thanks,  Guys

     After getting the Air Compressor parts, I did a complete overhaul on the FS Curtis D96A compressor pump.

IMG_1336.JPG.a45db80e982b3ccdbbc130ca7000c538.JPG

 

Replaced Intake and Exhaust Valves, new Head Gasket, new Piston Rings and new Con Rod Bearings.

 

After the Compressor was repaired, The Greddy Rocket Bunny Flares were installed.  On Ebay, Z Spec Design had their Rocket Bunny

Kit Installation kit for $90.

1740088938_IMG_1353(1).JPG.f120154c7b25eecf7e7e3273b16ff5cc.JPG

 

These tools were used to install the Flares.

IMG_1360.JPG.35b9bdafc791cdd49bfb44cea82cd61f.JPG

 

The Cleco  Clamps were utilized to hold the Flares in place while drilling.

 

The Drill drilled the mounting holes into the Flares.   Also, it drilled the Body side for the Threaded Nutserts.

IMG_1355.JPG.fa79bd668a4501f2bfaaa229428472b3.JPG Drilling the Flare

 

IMG_1356.JPG.3128fd8bfa0bdd8b07a29f06d90c9821.JPG Drilling Body for Nutserts.

 

I added a 11" extensions of 1" square tubing to the Nut Setter( lengthening its arms gave it additional leverage).

IMG_1407.JPG.404ee0545fec7e9eafe83a72a802d5e9.JPG  IMG_1357.JPG.388900ba12a7221a460fac4e319874a0.JPG

IMG_1358.JPG.e6fd2c96f4858ad15a66f556f6b46736.JPG Threaded Nut installed.

 

I recommend all insets be rethreaded.  Sometimes the inserts are distorted during installation.

IMG_1359.JPG.a94ff9876aed91ce23c3c1c36e3a8200.JPG

 

IMG_1363.JPG.6c7c1cb8f18ba8fc8a80591c888852c3.JPG    Installed

 

The Paint and Materials for this car was about $2000(Jobber Cost).  Sherwin Williams Ultra 7000 Poyurethane paint(Basecoat) and CC2000 Clear Coat were used.   I also used the 3M TRiZ Sanding system which consists of P1000, 1500 and P3000 Velco Sandpaper was utilized too.  This method reduced the polishing times drastically.

IMG_1397.JPG.60a3d92d4c73da5d9f473de1deba3f8f.JPG

 

IMG_1398.JPG.222c423f89da024fc8716c489df5de42.JPG  

 

IMG_1399.JPG.5cd199c1d3d2d42f4fa7ce97d6dafbbb.JPG

 

IMG_1400.JPG.a784bbd62a8a4b44c8f8f1152550a617.JPG

 

IMG_1402.JPG.3a833b43605ffb3e1c14871bc3ff157b.JPG

 

IMG_E1396.JPG.3d05201111e14cc3802f16a56c39ed84.JPG

 

Next thing to do:   Installing Front and rear Suspension on the car.  Happy Fourth of July Holiday to everyone!!

IMG_1357.JPG

Edited by toolman
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Posted (edited)

  I had planned to assemble the Front and Rear Suspension to the Z but decided to work on the interior parts first.

2062227389_IMG_1424(1).JPG.0db532e37f80bf65a341bbef06dbab57.JPG   Door Glass Regulator was cleaned and lubricated.

 

1559139890_IMG_1421(1).JPG.43e778e01aad5b27cfd7a738e2336ce3.JPG   The Door Glass had a lot of Water Spots from being parked outside.

 

These Water Spots were removed with #000 Steel Wool and Hand Rubbing Compound.

1588012735_IMG_E1417(1).JPG.7080e0ea4f871abace3a2df3e995af82.JPG Rub in a Circular Pattern to remove all the spots.

 

1742009712_IMG_1416(1).JPG.7d970678cf1bf9f13391017802c0d926.JPG   Looked like Brand New Door Glass.

 

IMG_1415.JPG.6ac4ea3b76ec3c4a5e01da04afef5cd7.JPG   Before  Disassembly and Rebuild.

 

Tools used to rebuild the Quarter Glass: Plastic Glass Tool. Rubber Hammer. Tire Lube Brush. and 1/8" Nylon Rope.

IMG_1464.JPG.4e595fafe71657637ba5515af6e125ac.JPG

 

One area of reassembly was the 1/4 Window Glass Frame.   Because of the New Weather Stripping. squeezing the Frame together posed a

problem.   This was solved by wrapping a 1/8" Nylon Rope around the frame and 3/8" x 6" Bolt.   Twisting the bolt between the rope will cause the rope to get tighter and tighter.   This action will squeeze the frame together and allow the installation of the frame screws.

658629492_IMG_1463(1).JPG.9eb80470f0d309a58cc6c299a453110b.JPG

 

Now, check the corner of the 1/4 frame with the long ends.

IMG_1469.JPG.bcac88d60d2f05ff324b818c05352727.JPG  Note-A strip of Rubber added to the Frame.  This Rubber Strip fills the gap so the Outer Weather Stripping Gasket does not leak.   Check the Old OEM weather stripping.  It

probably has a similar rubber strip that is not included with the replacement weather stripping.

 

The Outer !/4 Glass Weather stripping was attached with Contact Cement ,  Use a Acid brush to apply the Glue.   Apply the Contact Cement to Both Sides (gasket and the Frame).   Make to allow the glue to dry for 10 to 15 minutes before sticking them together.

IMG_1470.JPG.44fb79874920883e78398b9cf52e91c4.JPG

 

Wrap the1/8" Nylon Rope tightly again around the Weather Stripping and then knot it so it holds till the cement dries.

 

Installation of the Assembled  1/4 Glass on the car usually requires two persons.  As the Glass must be pushed both rearward into the body and

inward to attach the mounting screws.

IMG_1473.JPG.90ba91f4640d7b3bab7a463f1062103d.JPG  Installation Complete.

 

The 1/4 Glass Frame was painted with Sem Products Trim Paint Black to match the Race Car Theme.

 

 

 

 

 

 

In this case, the Bumper Guard and Bumper Rubber Strips Holes were going to be welded closed to provide a more Clean Look.

IMG_1438.JPG.7cb3e8c87155f9055ff44edf196c1199.JPG  

 

!/8" Steel Plugs were cut and fitted into the holes before welded.

414319512_IMG_1439(1).JPG.d7a54cf048c003962c99cb19713f3a2a.JPG

 

IMG_1440.JPG.24b04957c5b5535587b4c36301e73958.JPG  Welded Holes after Grinding

 

IMG_1458.JPG.248349598093bfd798e0ab4b63d5afe2.JPG Bumper Parts Poly Urethane Primered.

 

IMG_1466.JPG.9f71fa258edd5e5f8f85a11ed785ef06.JPG

 

Single Stage Black Polyurethane Paint was used to paint the Bumper Parts.

 

Bumper Installed on car 

IMG_E1486.JPG.c7e6f09b95aa26a2d7734a2818ac7c02.JPG Side View

 

IMG_E1487.JPG.782615795b342f1e3c05852465a4f4dd.JPG   Center View

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by toolman
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Posted (edited)

EF Ian, 

      Yes, In the Old Days, rechroming bumpers was a common procedure.   But now days because of the toxic byproducts and mostly the cost,  only limited  automotive chroming is done.   You can also use a a torch and braze the holes.  Then grind it smooth with 24 grit paper.  The rechromers will first apply copper plating then chrome plate it.  I would have powercoated the bumper but the center section would not fit in my small oven.   PowderCoating  powder to do this bumper would cost only about $13.

Edited by toolman
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Posted (edited)

   My Weather Stripping Kit from Zdepot arrived just in time.  It costed about $300 but was high

quality and fitment was good.

IMG_1456.JPG.76789382f8178303cd4ab1203356c1cc.JPG 

 

IMG_1457.JPG.7a24e58e13abc205616d8a8a9c5b06d5.JPG  kit parts list

 

  The Hatch Weather Stripping was installed with 3M Super Weather Stripping Adhesive.  I found

the older yellow version to hold better than the newer Black Version.

 

Note-Be sure to let the adhesive to dry(5 - 10 minutes) or until "tacky".   Then hold both together for

at an hour.   I used masking tape and duct tape.

IMG_1545.JPG.fcb4a85db3f928077bbb1bc408807cfb.JPG on weather stripping

 

IMG_1541.JPG.7e8620556bff31d3defc71f3b8920fd3.JPG  on body edge then hold together.

 

IMG_1537.JPG.d7cea21fbc0eb53362119cba785cef43.JPG

 

 

IMG_1536.JPG.d7b4dcd0d34f7911d254422ecffc18d3.JPG

 

   When installing New Replacement Door Weather Stripping, if you having trouble closing the door even after

adjustment, you try this tip.   I rigged up a 1/8" steel cable connected to the inside seat belt mounting

hole.   Put a Turn Buckle in between the mount and cable.   The other end was attached to the latch side of the door.   A 3/4" x 2" board was utilized inside of the door to prevent damage to door.  

308216059_IMG_1503(1).JPG.c6075a52b4253c1a9fafd55a87d5ec76.JPG

The operation is simple-Turn the Turn Buckle to shorten the cable.  This will force the door

to squeeze the weather stripping tight.   Remember to remove the latch plate on the quarter

panel otherwise maximum force will not be achieved.  The weather stripping must be squeezed a lot to compensate

for the"rebound factor".

 293267515_IMG_1504(1).JPG.3913c87fa6223e55d60a6d341cca9ea9.JPG seat belt mount side

IMG_1499.JPG.7988654350e130b39e20adc9bda4a5f0.JPG  door anchor side of cable-note board inside the door

 

 

 Another tip- To cut the excessive door weather stripping, a 4 1/2" right angle grinder with a

1/32" cutoff wheel was used because the door weather stripping contains a metal webbing

inside.

IMG_1508.JPG.031bbb40781b9efa305bbcaae06c2c47.JPG

IMG_1510.JPG.93c1f51879a31ac6a9f671af14d2baf5.JPG cross section of door weather stripping

 

Another tip:   When Powder Coating. I sometimes use a piece of cardboard to hold screw and bolts 

while sandblasting.

IMG_1511.JPG.2e827b21e81bb60b7ba6f20a49e1ea87.JPG Next to the parts, their location was written to aid

in assembly.

To hang screws, bolts and washers while baking the powder coat, .030 Stainless Aircraft Safety Wire

is used.

IMG_1547.JPG.1dfbee71955d53d9eab24b9c454fed40.JPG

 

IMG_1549.JPG.0b9452cdbbc3e852041a11cd1fa89142.JPG

This zig zag type of hanger is utilized to keep parts apart when baking.

IMG_1553.JPG.07451fe76a197fa94a6a35d554e31775.JPG

Rethreading of all Powder Coated items is necessary as the Powder Coating will add additional

material to them.

 

 

Edited by toolman
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I'm interested to know how the Precision weatherstripping has worked out for you since these strips are well documented to have issues.

  • Too much silicone in the rubber makes the adhesive not stick to it
  • Too thick... Rear hatch and doors don't close flush

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Posted (edited)

idiot280,   I don't think the Precision Weatherstripping is made with Silicone in it.   But they probably coated their rubber molds with silicone for easy removal of the weather stripping.   I always wipe the areas down where the adhesive is going with lacquer thinner before glueing.

    The Precision Weatherstripping is well made but is "Fatter" than the original 240z one.   So you might have readjust your door and hatch

latches to allow them to close.  The rubber will eventually wear in.  Or if you can not wait for it to wear in, construct a similar "pull cable"  that I made for the doors and put heavy weight on the hatch.  But remember to remove the latches so they can compress the rubber more.

.   Also, if you still have problems with the weather stripping  not sticking, use clamps or similar tools to hold the rubber down.   Especially around the corners, the adhesive on the rubber must contact the adhesive on the body.  I always check

this by tugging on the rubber after an a hour after application.  If rubber loose, glue and clamp down again.

IMG_1564.JPG.d5f9187c21dbb3e10d3484a99375dfbb.JPG

I hope this information helps you.

IMG_1564.MOV

Edited by toolman
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Posted (edited)

"Lost Part"

     I somehow lost one of the Hoods Accessory Door Spring Latch.   So I was forced to create one using the other one to copy from.

IMG_1523.JPG.fcd53fec4fa2901484ea2ee50c4debdb.JPG Original, the Copy and Template

It was constructed from sheet metal using pliers and a drill.

IMG_1529.JPG.b5c25a1c22564292b0275687106013e9.JPG  Test Fitted then to be Painted to match.

Restoring Damages Masonite and Plastic Interior Panels

IMG_1554.JPG.e37989f03259d7f8c2a8b999d4d8c0d5.JPG cracked Masonite Panel

 

1301071757_IMG_1555(1).JPG.fdb119235cd1aa1792e6c71f03cea34c.JPG IMG_1528.JPG.d1f126da0f16ea4d95ce7b0e3a2b3993.JPG  Fiberflex Rods and Fiberglass Screen Window

Mesh were used for these type of repairs.

IMG_1556.JPG.056da9b8518d2a1a78d809eaa25f5f56.JPG  Mesh with plastic melted over it created a strong

repair.

IMG_1431.JPG.4121456fd7d9b8e91ff92ac4a6738e3a.JPG

 

One  Masonite panel was missing a large section so I glued a piece of  .0025" Aluminum Sheet

to fill in the missing area.   Fast Drying Epoxy did the job.

IMG_1577.JPG.0ef87d69f3a1d0c8f0731e8cefe89e68.JPG

 

Vise grips held the patch in place until the Epoxy cured.

IMG_1578.JPG.1f7ad9a00dc746b799676f7ba23c04a2.JPG

Note- The hole in the panel is for Radio Speakers.

Plastic Interior Panel Repair

IMG_1586.JPG.ef54db81cc906373687f370387bac9a5.JPG Big crack in Rear Plastic Panel

 

IMG_1588.JPG.6749b1f98e8b872ac78128f8bd6ab8ac.JPG

The Crack was aligned then "tack welded" with the Plastic welder.  On the other side, Stainless Steel Mesh was covered with FiberFlex plastic rods to provide a study backing.   Then,  the otherside  of the crack was gone over completely with FiberFlex rods too.

IMG_1584.JPG.1eea53b9679dbb669c39ba5812222308.JPG

Painted with SEM TEXTURE Black paint and prep for painting.

IMG_1597.JPG.b80e53983d538660c9eea9ca96218254.JPG

 

IMG_1598.JPG.7e1da0957725434428de52971a862811.JPG    Plastic Interior Panels painted.

 

IMG_1604.JPG.95d507667903b6d64c2fc0a8fc8bfa77.JPG Console paintedIMG_1612.JPG.79320ed2084312a77837536b6674750a.JPG

 

                                                                                                                            Closeup of Hand Painted  Console Switch Lettering                                                                           

IMG_E1638.JPG

IMG_E1639.JPG

Edited by toolman
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Mounting Rocket Bunny Rear Soiler

   The Rocket Bunny Body Kit does not come with any instructions for installation of its components.   So the builder has to come up with

his own methods of installation.    The rear spoiler is no exception.   I decided to mount the spoiler by fabricating Two mount plates that were

installed inside of the spoiler.

1701466779_IMG_1614(1).JPG.00cf338aa5ccca4a19b46b7b4b39303c.JPG   Each mount consisted of Two 5mm x .8 x 16mm bolts that were tack welded to

a 1/2" x  3" long 16 gauge sheet metal plate.   The mounts were mounted on the both side edges of the hatch.   The existing hatch edge was

1/8" thick already and strong enough to hold the spoiler on.

 

IMG_1615.JPG.69a2732ebd496d99cd45cb51ed41a5d2.JPG   Test fitting the mounts

 

Create a cardboard template of mount to make sure the mount would fit inside of the spoiler.

IMG_1618.JPG.b532ddccd0ed34c613069f52891f01c5.JPG

 

I determined that  a 1" hole drilled in the bottom of the spoiler would sufficient for installation of the mount and not be "too large".

The  bolt holes were also drilled at this time using the template.

683713193_IMG_1622(1).JPG.8e0ea2581b46c4ce9a716d82347c8de9.JPG

Using a long nose plier and  a little manipulation, the mounts were installed in the spoiler.

2128479573_IMG_1624(1).JPG.e987fb600d7eef7fd7087205e88cbeb3.JPG

 Fibeglass resin and cloth were used to hold the mounts to the inside of the spoiler.   Installing the two mounting nuts would hold the mounts in place until the fiberglass cured.

942030382_IMG_1625(1).JPG.2f96336e0bbff75e3e002c6e87366446.JPG  Note-Inner Single Bolt Spoiler Mount

 

Two Black Plastic 1" caps from Lowes were a perfect fit to seal the holes.   I also added two 5mm bolts closed to the middle of the spoiler for

added support.

 

Restoring the Rear Tail Light Assemblies

  A picture of the "Before" restoration of the Tail Light Assemblies.

IMG_1475.JPG.af6e42833fc8cf0070d16b6333ba4d75.JPG

Note: dull finish, dents  and chips.

IMG_1476.JPG.7f61270ed0d184eabea4320a055244e6.JPG

 

The Lens was polished with buffing wheel and chips were filled in with epoxy.

Krylon "Lookinh Glass" spray paint  was utilized to provide the "Chrome Like" twin parallel bars of the lens.

IMG_1480.JPG.39dfc63d05428c4184791b8c913ce239.JPG

 

1916159589_IMG_1485(1).JPG.b018804df2dc530d42371f37ef88edd4.JPG

 

To give the Tail Light Assemblies  additional "POP", Polyurethane Clear was sprayed over the lens.

IMG_1632.JPG.c7a899e37c0d670590abedba70001394.JPG

 

Tail Light Assemblies installed.

IMG_E1634.JPG.0df8dd118e6aa319c1ea89a5a3a41fe3.JPG

 

Spoiler Installed.

IMG_E1635.JPG.a2ccbe312b08aed92066ec69d940b57e.JPG

 

 

  

Edited by toolman
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  Sorry for not posting for awhile,   I had some home repairs to do before the end of Summer.

   Undercarriage Work:

       Disassembled and cleaned then lubed and reassembled the steering components.

IMG_E1668.JPG.e1e60b46f29cd7a8fa34eb233efa44fa.JPG     Disassembly, inspection and relubed

 

IMG_1673.JPG.82b73ef54d3a5943d13a760327d89c78.JPG All parts were painted with Black Single Stage Urethane paint

 

 

 

416885854_IMG_1674(1).JPG.4893b8b331cb1491811c502680748c93.JPG  The Gas Pedal Bracket was left as it depending on LS Electronic Pedal Assembly.

 

Brake, Vent and Fuel Lines

849547865_IMG_1682(1).JPG.1c4451fe1241d18c3233a8569476749c.JPG All Lines were wire brushed, primed and paint with Single Stage Silver Paint.

 

One Part of the Drivetrain Tunnel was the Hand Brake Mechanism which was missing its Dust Cover Rubber Cap.   I found a !" chair leg

plastic cap from the local hardware store that fit perfectly to seal the Hand Brake Swivel Ball grease in.

1066332467_IMG_1689(1).JPG.4707c15b17bd4cee9503332f00a93f00.JPG 767876008_IMG_1690(1).JPG.ed4246acaf91e98a0b1b95d19be58655.JPG  Cap with hole cut on top

 

Front Disc Brakes Modifications

     My WILWOOD 300mm Rotors and Four Piston Calipers arrived in time for installation.

1723437426_IMG_1694(1).JPG.26313e5fef751346487b455405f2423a.JPG  From Techno Toy for about $1200

 

1539228283_IMG_1711(1).JPG.ab40abd607e8920f6706e0f16d03d063.JPG   1722321703_IMG_1712(1).JPG.6b25442aa82c31cff817d2895fe8c695.JPG

 

926720105_IMG_1717(1).JPG.f9808780d58ec0a94cd79611ced83ee2.JPG  240309141_IMG_1716(1).JPG.110c8b7f77934c6f9c8a39480b9e4873.JPG  

 

149974822_IMG_1718(1).JPG.9b392adb7cf3edd3728eb23fef323fc1.JPG  IMG_1720.JPG.7a7824c819d6b1cad02ecf943c2e5f06.JPG comes with braided stainless steel lines.

  I replaced the Master Cylinder Assembly with another 7/8" one from ZDEPOT.   OEM master cylinder assemblies were only available for about $300 as compared to ZDEPOT for $100.   But the output brake lines must be bend to fit for ZDEPOT one.

462391547_IMG_1700(1).JPG.9af82acba14ff36e420fb97bf2e5eeab.JPG

 

                                  ZDEPOT                                                                   OEM   Master Cylinder

 

1480586821_IMG_1706(1).JPG.09040dae241800c3fcaaab8bfe01c259.JPG  Note- Difference in Outlet Fittings in both assemblies

 

IMG_1708.JPG.d0210ec39bc63986b56d6b7ceb650d62.JPG   Also Note-Differences in Reservoir Sizes so do not throw the old one just in case.

 

Brake, Vent and Fuel Mounting Clamps

5999621_IMG_1693(1).JPG.a97db834b81165853520d0874f25e9c6.JPG   New Brake, Vent and Fuel Clamps were fabricated for the drivetrain tunnel section.

 

1357450610_IMG_1698(1).JPG.8d8a51755565d8e4716c0d69f103545d.JPG

 

Next thing to work on will be the Fuel Tank  modified for In-Tank Electric Fuel Pump.

 

 

Edited by toolman
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