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Heavy Duty frame rails and connectors

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  frame rail-rear crossmember to firewall       close up view   The frame rail extends from rear crossmember to engine firewall.  Checking out the f

When you are done, there will be so much time on your hands, you won't know what to do.  Good grief what a lot of work.  If this had to be done by a pro, it will be a mid 6 figure bill.  Great job.  I

Ebay has a lot of portable China Spray booths that run from $1000 to $2000.  Most are a little more than inflatable bounce things. The one at the SEMA is manufactured in Texas by Mobile Environme

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On 11/23/2021 at 7:01 AM, 280Z-LS3 said:

I placed a Sanden SD-7B10 A/C Compressor where you put the alt.  Made similar 1/4" plate mount brackets.  Have yet to make my spacers to align compressor and idler pulleys.  Nice work as usual.

I went with truck spacing accessories and was able to fit a truck alternator AFTER clocking the casing 90* to move the positive post away from the motor mount. I also have a sanden low mount using dirty dingo's low mount and had to notch the motor mount location. 

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Engine Compartment Modifications-


     I forgot to post the Alternator that I utilized-NAPA #272-4717 104 AMP  Alternator( cost $130).   I originally tried to install a 140AMP GM one but it was way too large to fit in the bottom

driver side of the motor.    I think 104 AMP is sufficient unless I install an Electric Power Steering Unit.   The NAPA Alternator has a Lifetime Warranty and 104 AMP is widely available.




AIr Intake-

    My Crate LS3  6.2 Liter motor did not come with a Air Intake  Setup so I had to fab

one.   Spectre Performance had a 4" Stainless Tube ($75), 36" 0fn 4" Flex Tubing($32)and 4" Right Angle Rubber Elbows(($24) for basis of my system.



I didn't want my Air Inlet to breathe Hot Engine Compartment Air so I fab the system to get Cold Air from just behind the grille.


Had to enlarge the hole in the Core Support to accomplish this.


Also, had to "Tap "  the Wheel Housing to get about 3/4" clearance for the Duct Hose.



Used Shears to Trim the Sheet Metal Plate for the Duct Hose.



Inside view of the Duct Opening



Using Band Saw to cut 4" Stainless Straight Tube..



Trial Fitting of the Flexible Duct Tubing.   I created a Steel Metal Duct Plate on the Core Support to hold Duct Hose and Air Filter.IMG_E3471.JPG.a246a70c92d8d4a56a226dbca3c7b281.JPG


Pic of Additional Right Angle Elbow on outside of Core Support to

mount Air Filter.  I have not decided on which Air Filter to use yet.



Inside view of Air Inlet System



Next-Holley Terminator X System installation













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   I was planning to post about installing the Holley Terminator X Engine Control Kit but at the

last moment I decided to go to a upgraded version of the Holley Kit.   So that may take a couple of weeks to arrive because of the Pandemic and Christmas.  but there are still plenty work to do.


Drive By Wire Accelerator Pedal Installation-

    Holley recommends  using  AC Delco # 10379038 Pedal  Assembly( Amazon-$88.   However, you have to fabricate your own mount.   Normally, accelerator pedal were easy to fab as they were usually constructed of 3/8"-7/16" steel rod.   One could just heat the rod red hot and bend it as necessary.  However, Electronic Throttle Pedals are constructed of 16 gauge metal and plastic pedal arms.   Thus, fabrication of the pedal mount is a lot more difficult.   Also, the location

of the pedal is in a confined area next to the trans tunnel.

IMG_3569.JPG.d89df544eef31acc20a819c0d55c1edc.JPG   Originally, the pedal would be attached to this plate on the firewall with three screws.


I made paper templates to create the Pedal Mount.







Cutting 1/8" Steel with a  4 1/2" angle grinder with 1/32" cutoff wheels.



A Trial Fit of Mount.


Left side view



top view of mount-looking downward


After Trial Fitting, the Mount was mig welded and powder coated Black.

1246675094_IMG_3575(1).JPG.86ec74376c700192db938841f828250a.JPG Left Side View


1701929944_IMG_3572(1).JPG.4e69c45153c2a68f2f1247183e68a661.JPGRight Side View   Holes were added to lighten the mount and looks good too.




IMG_3574.JPG.ad08729a1896877d36fcef1964e5a677.JPGTop View

IMG_3576.JPG.48f925299253750a89229d6a8130bf98.JPGPedal Assembly Mounted



Pedal Mount installed on Firewall



Mount is attached with four 6mm bolts with 1/2" x 4" 1/8" steel plates on the engine compartment side of the firewall.



Rubber Gaskets were made and placed under those plates to prevent water leakage.


A Hole Punch was utilized to punch mounting holes.



Next-Battery Box


Happy Holidays to All!!



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Posted (edited)

Change  of Plans-


     I must have been a "Good Boy" because my Ungraded Holley Terminator X Max arrived on Christmas Eve.

   Brand New Holley Terminator X Max# 555550-910 was designed for Late Model LS3 motor with 58 CAM, EV6 Injectors, Drive by Wire Throttle Body and a Remote 3.5 Touch Screen Turner was $1540 from Amazon.







   I started by laying the Holley harness over the motor and attaching the sensors.   Everything pretty much lined up but there were wires which were a little

short.  But no big deal.  A little shifting of harness around and  removing the tape on the looms to gain an inch or so. Then,retaping the hareness.   With the harness laid out,  I could tell the major problem would be getting the harness through the firewall to connect to the computer.

    The area between the Battery Tray and Firewall was the only place where everything would fit.  Local Reconstruction Law did not allow relocating the battery into the rear of the car.   Although that location would make harness routing much easier with no battery in the way.   Plus, Weight Distribution would be better too.


This was a small Area for alot of wiring to pass through.   The holes under the battery tray was for the AC Hoses to pass thu.

   I found this Split-Seal Grommets that was big enough but stll provide good sealing qualities.   But they costed $35 each from Amazon.

seal IMG_3711.JPG.1454c88a6f3ecdb0b6ae46c920b59edf.JPG

        Note- The Split-Seal has extra sealing lip at the joint.  It provides a little more joint sealing.

        I also made an additional sheet metal ring to reinforce the seal from the interior

side of the seal.   The Split Seal and Reinforcing Ring was bolted together with six 4MM bolts and nuts.



Cleco Pins were utilized to position the seal while installing.



Engine Compartment View-Seal installed with harness going through the Firewall.



Interior View of Split Seal installed.



Aluminum Templates with various hole sizes were used to determine correct hole to be drilled in the Firewall.  The biggest objects on the harness were the various relays so the hole had to be at least this diameter so the harness could fit thu.



In case you need a custom Grommet , this is the procedure to construct one.



Cut out 23 gauge sheet metal to create the Outer Frame.  Use a razor or knife to make the  Round Seal out of 1/8" rubber sheet.


Finish shaping and use Contact Cement to attach Rubber Seal to frame.  Then drill six Mounting Holes and cut seal in half.  If additional sealing is needed, just make an additional rubber seal on the Interior Side of the seal.


Note-It is important to make the Center Sealing Hole slightly smaller to provide a tight fit with harness.


For Grommets for other Small Wires, you can use Grommets (from Home Depot).

Use the ones made specifically for certain size sheet metal hole.   These seals are usually made of for use in sheel metal holes but check to be sure.


If you want  a tight fit for individual wires, drill slightly larger holes than wire diameter and push wires thu individual holes instead of just slitting the grommets.  This method provides tighter sealing fit.



Next-Battery Box


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  • 2 weeks later...

Battery Box Modifications-

     This is the Delco Replacement Battery for a 2019 Chevrolet Corvette 6.0L LS3.

It is a GelCell Battery rated at 900CCA but weighs 49 pounds.   Because of its weight and size, I decided to beef up the original Battery Tray.



Making a Paper Template of New Battery Tray



I decided to construct the Battery Box out of 16 gauge Stainless Steel.

Used Right Angle Grinder with cutoff wheel to cut the Stainless Steel.




Filing down the sharp edges from cutting.


After Bending the Stainless Steel and tack welding the two

front corners, the Battery Box looked like this.


Front View



Added two Holes on side for Improved Appearance.


Made a Paper Template to locate the Mounting Holes for the

Battery Box.


Template taped the Bottom of the Battery Box to locate holes to be drilled.


  Three 6mm bolt and nuts installed in Firewall to support the Box.



 A 1/8" steel bar was installed in the window cowl to reinforce the three bolts in the firewall.



Four 5/16" Carriage Bolts and nuts secured the Box to existing

Battery Tray.  The Box was polished with Buffing wheel.



Battery Box Version-1


Front View



Battery Box with Stainless Steel Hold Down Bolts.


Unfortunately, when I tried to put the Delco Battery into the 

New Battery Box, it would not go in.  The Left Side Box Wall prevented the Battery from sliding in.  So that Wall had to be 



Modified Battery Box Version-2


With a 1/4" Rubber Mat on bottom to absorb vibration.


Another Angle view of the Battery Box.



This Second Version shows no matter how careful you plan

something, it can go wrong.   So You must be able to adapt

and continue.


Next-More Wiring to do




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