Jump to content
HybridZ
Ironhead

ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

Recommended Posts

I got the fuel cell, fuel filter, and vent system plumbed.  I also mocked all the cell firewall cover parts into place just to make sure everything fits as I had intended.  Also got the inertia switches installed.  I had to use two of them because my fuel pump can draw more current than one is rated to handle.

 

No wiring done yet.  I am going to try to get everything mocked into place before I start that nightmare.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

WPc4rl0.jpg

 

gJUEBeK.jpg

 

SzzOND9.jpg

 

VYRD803.jpg

 

wbYDATJ.jpg

 

sqXoo3U.jpg

 

llpl3KW.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks great! 

 

Is that the II Much VSR vent? I am using the same vent. However II Much is taking forever to get me a replacement after their recall. First it was back ordered, then I finally get it, and it gets recalled! Now its been 7 months... Beautiful product but come on man. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, LLave said:

That looks great! 

 

Is that the II Much VSR vent? I am using the same vent. However II Much is taking forever to get me a replacement after their recall. First it was back ordered, then I finally get it, and it gets recalled! Now its been 7 months... Beautiful product but come on man. 

 

It is the II Much.  It took me months to get it after paying them in full for it, but not THAT long.  I inquired after waiting some time without receiving it, and I didn't really like the tone of their reply.  Sort of like I will get it when I get it, after they had my money for months.  I think they know that no one else sells something like this, and their attitude reflects that.

 

If it does what it is reputed to do, I suppose it will be worth it.  I really REALLY do not want my garage to constantly reek of gas fumes. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I had a few weeks where I wasn't really able to work on the car.  When I got back on it, I started working on fabbing up the upper dash panel.

 

I had trouble trying to mock things up with cardboard, specifically trying to figure out where to put the bolt holes so that everything lined up.  I wound up fabbing the piece up with clear acrylic, which made the task vastly easier.  Then I just transferred everything to aluminum and cut it out.

 

The plan (currently) is to weld a tab to the front of the piece, onto which will attach CF panels on which to mount a digital dash and the various switches and controls.  That will involve aluminum welding, which I screw up a lot, so we will see how it all goes.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

p6x53uj.jpg

 

Zz3T0Rp.jpg

 

qjCMb44.jpg

 

JVoEj2C.jpg

 

8R2G35f.jpg

 

YgIMLNA.jpg

 

LTE6QH9.jpg

Edited by Ironhead

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Xmas in October!

 

Ordered wheels in June and just today received them.  They are Jongbloed model 214, 17X10 front and 17X11 rear.  I was going for the '70s and '80s motorsport look, with gold centers and polished rims.  My daughter thinks they look "ghetto".

 

Now if I can get tires mounted, I can actually put the car on the ground and move it around!  First time in 18 months.

 

Thanks for looking....

 

QtSZCF0.jpg

 

i8PtOlW.jpg

 

O3U37BE.jpg

 

oD6XF57.jpg

 

f8EPPOe.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/18/2018 at 2:17 PM, Ironhead said:

 

It is the II Much.  It took me months to get it after paying them in full for it, but not THAT long.  I inquired after waiting some time without receiving it, and I didn't really like the tone of their reply.  Sort of like I will get it when I get it, after they had my money for months.  I think they know that no one else sells something like this, and their attitude reflects that.

 

If it does what it is reputed to do, I suppose it will be worth it.  I really REALLY do not want my garage to constantly reek of gas fumes. 

 

 

I have the same feelings. Looks like a great product, if it works as they say I will be very pleased. I love that it is a small company. However their customer service has been down right terrible. Months and months have gone by, and now I see they are advertising on their web site that they can ship out new orders in two weeks. Hey what about the people who's money you already have? When do they get working product? Very frustrating. 

 

Back on topic. Man I dig those wheels! I think you nailed the vintage motorsport look. What color will the car be when complete? 

 

 

I was reading back up a bit. You may want to consider revising the inertia switch wiring. Not to be chicken little here, but if one is underrated to handle the switching capacity for your fuel pump, you probably should add a relay, let the inertia switch trigger the relay and interrupt the fuel pump power. The reason that parallel contacts to increase load capacity is not great practice is that, if one of the switches trips or fails, the other will take the full load and be overloaded immediately. If it is close to capacity, I wouldn't worry, but it if is double, I would consider revising. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have narrowed color down to two or three options...all non-metallics...very saturated colors.  The leading contender is an aqua-green very similar to the color surrounding the "L" in your avatar....  I might still change my mind though.  I am quite a ways from spraying paint.

 

I hear what you are saying about the intertia switches.  I know a relay would be the obvious solution, but I am wiring the car with a PDM, which is designed to replace fuses and relays.  Yes I could have a signal from the PDM trip a relay, but that would also require another hot power wire coming from the PDM, and it has limited channels unless I want to spend the big bucks on a 32 channel unit...which I don't.   One of the advantages of a PDM is simplified wiring...and adding relays defeats the purpose to some extent.

 

But you are correct, and the dual switches have been bugging me for a while.  It just isn't the "right" way to do it.  I will probably change plans two or three more times before I am through this.  I wish there was an inertia switch with more capacity, but I have searched high and low and failed to find one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Ironhead said:

I have narrowed color down to two or three options...all non-metallics...very saturated colors.  The leading contender is an aqua-green very similar to the color surrounding the "L" in your avatar....  I might still change my mind though.  I am quite a ways from spraying paint.

 

I hear what you are saying about the intertia switches.  I know a relay would be the obvious solution, but I am wiring the car with a PDM, which is designed to replace fuses and relays.  Yes I could have a signal from the PDM trip a relay, but that would also require another hot power wire coming from the PDM, and it has limited channels unless I want to spend the big bucks on a 32 channel unit...which I don't.   One of the advantages of a PDM is simplified wiring...and adding relays defeats the purpose to some extent.

 

But you are correct, and the dual switches have been bugging me for a while.  It just isn't the "right" way to do it.  I will probably change plans two or three more times before I am through this.  I wish there was an inertia switch with more capacity, but I have searched high and low and failed to find one.

 

I dig it. Saturated non-metallics will have that old school vibe. 

 

You could add a stand alone relay right next to the inertia switch without adding much wire. Circuited something like this sketch. 

The relay would be energized anytime the car is running and the inertia switch is closed, using a continuous duty relay, this is problem at all. If the inertial switch is tripped, it will break the relay. The PDM is still feeding power, but the relay has interrupted it. Most quality relays are continuous duty, so finding a 30A or 50A should be easy and inexpensive.  

 

Of course... I am an amateur and know just enough to get into trouble. Just a thought, the .02 cents,  I am sure it will work either way. 

 

Relay.thumb.jpg.9a435241253a168de33301d1d6ac6c21.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finished the basic structure of the dash/instrument panel.  Nothing fancy...pretty stark...but all I really needed was a place to mount a digital dash and a few buttons/switches.  I am going to have the aluminum portion powder coated crinkle black.  Car won't have air conditioning, but I did install a small heater element that will function primarily as a windshield de-fogger.  I might put one vent in the dash to serve as a minimalist heater.


I am trying to keep things basic and simple, but I remember a morning track event that was cold and foggy.  Some guy took a "real racing car" out on track with no windshield de-fogger, and almost wiped himself (and several others) out because he couldn't see a damn thing.  So I figured that inclusion was mandatory.

 

Dash comes out very easily...just a lot of 6/32 button heads that screw into rivet nuts to remove the CF panels...in case I need to work on anything behind the dash.  Or, the whole assembly will lift out if I remove the larger button heads on the top.  Not being new to modified cars, I am pretty sure accessibility will come in handy down the road.

 

6Rcj2ft.jpg

 

w3U77L5.jpg

 

GPynk5p.jpg

 

Y9bj43r.jpg

Edited by Ironhead

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a small update...

 

I got the front brakes plumbed.  I elected to skip hard lines altogether and I am going to plumb the entire brake system with AN-3 teflon hose.  I know in theory that using hard lines as much as possible is supposed to give a firmer pedal, but in practice I have driven several track cars plumbed without any hard lines and the brake pedal in those cars felt like I was stepping on a piece of concrete.  I have also seen photos of several high end racing cars....including German DTM cars....wherein the brakes were plumbed entirely with teflon/braided steel hose...so I figure if there is a performance/"feel" loss in doing it this way...it must be minor.

 

In addition, using hard lines would require more transitions (possible leak spots) and just be much more of a hassle.  Hard lines are also actually less "bulletproof" than the braided steel lines.  If not adequately secured, subject to vibration and/or allowed to move, hard lines can possibly fracture wherein braided lines cannot. Plus in my case, the pedal box I am using allows the master cylinders to move slightly when the brakes are applied, to keep a straight angle on the pushrods.  So they would have needed to be plumbed with flex hose anyway.

 

 

I figured I would put my rationale up front since I know the general consensus is that it is best to use hard lines.

 

Thanks for looking.

 

06HhTui.jpg

 

TB6PEFk.jpg

 

aKZwPar.jpg

 

YLBuEXy.jpg

Edited by Ironhead

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been procrastinating buying these large components since I started on the car....mainly because I didn't want to plunge and spend the money.  But at the end of 2017 they substantially raised the prices on these parts, and I am also getting to the point that I need these items to progress any further with the build....so I bit the bullet and did it.

 

Engine is the 525 HP model, hauled it all home from Summit Racing yesterday.

 

For the output, I am truly amazed how compact these LS engines are.  One huge advantage to the pushrod design.

 

w7YYOHB.jpg

 

vclajql.jpg

 

UlVVb0X.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I haven't been updating a ton lately, not because I haven't been working on the car....but rather because I have fallen into the trap of having several portions "in progress" without finishing any of them.

 

I did manage to finish restoration of the headlight buckets.  They were just in general crappy condition, rusty, plastic and rubber parts cracked and breaking, and worst of all covered in over-spray from past cheap-ass resprays.

JiLKtgm.jpg

 

GaineTt.jpg

 

rYaftu1.jpg

 

Since "originality" is not on my list of goals with this build, I just had the metal parts media blasted and powder coated black.

 

O8QOW17.jpg

 

I found a source on Ebay for the plastic female threaded inserts into which the adjustment screws thread.  They had to come from Thailand IIRC, but they were inexpensive and I couldn't find them elsewhere.

 

UXmlEVY.jpg

 

3FZPFFG.jpg

 

Here they are assembled.  The old springs were still OK, and probably would have been for another 50 years, but they were rusty and looked like hell so I just had to replace them.  I found some stainless springs from McMaster-Carr that look and function the same and cost a couple of bucks.  Part number is 9433K43 if anyone cares.

 

lUvkUMV.jpg

 

One job down, several hundred to go....

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, ZHoob2004 said:

Do you have a link for those headlight adjuster clips? I'm just finishing up painting and will likely do something similar to my headlights and it would be nice to have parts on the way.

 

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HEADLIGHT-ADJUST-SCREW-WHITE-PLASTIC-FIT-DATSUN-FAIRLADY-240Z-260Z-280Z-S30/162684278544?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Posted (edited)

Another job I just finished tackling are the taillights and trim parts.  I ordered the CF surrounds from Retro Spec, and JDM spec taillights from Whitehead.  These parts on my car were cracked and in terrible condition.  I am not necessarily a fan of all things JDM, but the taillights were available used for about the same price as a good pair of US spec taillights, and I do think the amber lower light does look a bit better than the all red US lights.

 

That just left me the smaller trim rings to try to refurbish.  Mine had been rattle-can sprayed black at some time in the past, and the paint was chipping off with chrome showing through.  The paint came right off with some paint remover, but the underlying chrome was all bubbled up and lifting off.  I was initially in a bit of a quandary as to how to remove the chrome.  It was much too hard to sand off, and trying to media blast it off would have for sure destroyed the much softer underlying plastic.

 

After some research (thank god for YouTube) I found that a strong bleach solution will dissolve chrome from plastic.  This does work, but be forewarned it is a slow process.  I had the parts soaking 24/7 for almost two weeks before the chrome was finally gone.  During that time I also changed the bleach repeatedly, because after a couple of days of soaking the dissolving process seemed to slow down.

 

Finally, and after light (very light) media blasting to give them a key for painting, this was the result:

dP2v326.jpg

 

The screws holes in the backs were cracked and broken...just from age...and also did not line up with the holes in the carbon parts, so I filled in the backsides with JB Weld, then drilled new holes for the screws after it hardened.

 

QMCUoZb.jpg

 

pP76jwt.jpg

 

I am deleting all the chrome and bare stainless from the car, so I never considered re-chroming the parts, but I pondered for a bit how best to paint them.  I wanted something more durable than rattle can paint, because of the light colored plastic the slightest chip that appeared down the road would really look bad.

 

I had some air-cure Cerakote left over from an unrelated project.  This stuff is incredibly durable, and in particular the air-cured variety is supposedly extremely UV resistant, so I figured I would try it on the parts.  If you are not familiar with Cerakote, it originated primarily for use on firearms.  There is an air-cured and a heat cured variety.  The air cured is designed for plastic parts and anything else that cannot be subjected to the 400 or so degrees needed to cure the heat variety.  I was happy with how it turned out.

atLvrAX.jpg

 

pFsdCub.jpg

 

b4KmWVW.jpg

 

99ZqBei.jpg

 

For those considering trying them, I thought the Retro Spec carbon parts were pretty good.  They look nice, no obvious flaws, and the fit is acceptable if not perfect.  One thing that really bugged me though, is that the threaded studs attached to the back for attaching the taillights use a 12/24 thread.  This is a really weird thread size, and I have no idea why they chose it over 10/32 or M5 or M6 or whatever.  Try to find a 12/24 nut anywhere local to you and you will see what I mean.

 

Just one more small detail sorted.  Thanks for looking.

 

 

 

Edited by Ironhead

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×