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Ironhead

ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

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1 hour ago, CptButterfinger said:

This thread is awesome, getting close! Interested to know more on what you ordered from Woodward. Did you modify the AE front crossmember to use that rack or was the single bolt style mounting an AE option?

 

I ordered the AE crossmember unpainted, then just cut off the bases for the stock rack mounts, and welded on a mount to fit the Woodward rack.  There are a few pictures of this on page 4 of this thread.  The Woodward rack is very easy to make a mount for, basically all you need is a piece of .25" steel plate.  I added braces below to stiffen things up, but this was probably overkill. 

 

I ordered the Woodward rack in a significantly quicker ratio than the stock Datsun rack, but I also just wanted another option than my stock rack.  It was very tired and loose, most of the parts needed to rebuild it are NLA, and I just wanted an aftermarket option rather than trying to deal with 45 year old parts.  This has been the case with most of the build....not too much OEM Datsun stuff is left. 

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Posted (edited)

Makes sense, I see that now. I'm interested in doing something very similar on mine, would you mind sharing the part numbers you ordered from Woodward? You also mentioned them machining your outer tie rods, which outers did you start with before having them modify them? 

 

Totally agree on the tired old z parts argument. I really don't like that I don't yet have a good solution for my rack, shaft, or column and it's been one of my bigger safety concerns I've wanted a solution for. Thanks for sharing!

Edited by CptButterfinger

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Sorry, I couldn't dig up the specific part number.  It is one of the Woodward "heavy duty" manual racks from this page: http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/5. Heavy Duty Manual Steering Racks, types JL, JLR.pdf

 

You just order LHD "Front Steer" rack (assuming your car has LH steering), then tell them the length you want, the ratio, and the threading for the tie rods....the part number is built from that.  You can call and talk to them, they are very helpful.  You might not want exactly the same part number as mine anyway, depending on what steering ratio you want and other factors.

 

My outer tie rods were made from scratch by Woodward.  They do this all the time and it is very inexpensive.  You just need to know the thread of your inner tie rods (which come as part of the Woodward rack), and the thread of the Heim joints that thread into the other side. Keep in mind one end will be a LH thread and the other a RH thread, so that you can adjust your toe by turning the outer tie rod.

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Fancy you writing this on my build thread and then me spending the last hour at 4am catching up in yours 

 

“Fantastic project and work.  Every aspect of your metalwork is so impressive.  Honestly, it almost looks like you could have just built a new Z from scratch!”

 

Seriously? You kidding me right? I mean my work looks like the construction on a sardine can compared to this Hercelian “Transformers” build......... Pfffffffffffft

 

I am seriously going to raid some ideas 💡 I got from your thread and also outright steal others.

 

Please don’t leave any more sarcastic comments on my thread LMAO 😆 

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I got both headers finished.

 

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I am reasonably satisfied with the outcome, but I have to say this was a time consuming chore.  Enough of a chore, that if I was doing it over again I would plan the build in such a way that off-the shelf headers...like the Hawks...would be compatible.  In my case I could tell that my motor mounts and the Apex cross member braces would have prevented the Hawk headers from working.

 

In addition to not hitting or burning anything, I wanted to be able to install/remove the headers with the motor in the car.  This was very difficult on the passenger side.  As it turned out, I can do it, but I have to remove the Apex brace and the starter in order to do so.  I can live with that.

 

As I said before...hell with "equal length"....at the end of the day I was trying to find someplace they would fit...period.  The two headers look quite a bit different because the interference issues were different on each side.  On the driver's side the primary obstacle was the steering shaft and oil lines.  On the passenger side it was the starter, oil lines, and the crossmember brace.

 

Anyway, I am glad it's done.  Thanks for looking. 

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Great work! That is a tight fit. Those are going to work great for you. Much respect for the accomplishment. 

 

I think the take away with "custom" engine mounts is the buy a set of headers ahead of time, mock up with them and build around them. Haha. I wish I had too. 

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I got the cold air intake done....at least to where it passes through the radiator support.  It is done pretty much the same way every LS swapped Z, ever, has been done....but here it is regardless.

 

I just have to decide on an air filter.  I will probably just weld a piece of 90 degree aluminum tube to the outer flange, then use a cone filter on it.  The same sort of cone filter that adds at least 50 RWHP to any car they are installed on.

 

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23 minutes ago, CptButterfinger said:

 

Who's alternator mounting bracket is that? I was planning a similar alternator only belt routing, and this solution looks really slick. 

 

https://www.ictbillet.com/ls-truck-alternator-bracket-low-mount-lsx-ls3-lq4-lq9-l33-billet.html

 

IIRC the tensioner is the OEM one from the Pontiac GTO.

Edited by Ironhead

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