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Ironhead

ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

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1 hour ago, CptButterfinger said:

This thread is awesome, getting close! Interested to know more on what you ordered from Woodward. Did you modify the AE front crossmember to use that rack or was the single bolt style mounting an AE option?

 

I ordered the AE crossmember unpainted, then just cut off the bases for the stock rack mounts, and welded on a mount to fit the Woodward rack.  There are a few pictures of this on page 4 of this thread.  The Woodward rack is very easy to make a mount for, basically all you need is a piece of .25" steel plate.  I added braces below to stiffen things up, but this was probably overkill. 

 

I ordered the Woodward rack in a significantly quicker ratio than the stock Datsun rack, but I also just wanted another option than my stock rack.  It was very tired and loose, most of the parts needed to rebuild it are NLA, and I just wanted an aftermarket option rather than trying to deal with 45 year old parts.  This has been the case with most of the build....not too much OEM Datsun stuff is left. 

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Posted (edited)

Makes sense, I see that now. I'm interested in doing something very similar on mine, would you mind sharing the part numbers you ordered from Woodward? You also mentioned them machining your outer tie rods, which outers did you start with before having them modify them? 

 

Totally agree on the tired old z parts argument. I really don't like that I don't yet have a good solution for my rack, shaft, or column and it's been one of my bigger safety concerns I've wanted a solution for. Thanks for sharing!

Edited by CptButterfinger

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Sorry, I couldn't dig up the specific part number.  It is one of the Woodward "heavy duty" manual racks from this page: http://www.woodwardsteering.com/PDF/5. Heavy Duty Manual Steering Racks, types JL, JLR.pdf

 

You just order LHD "Front Steer" rack (assuming your car has LH steering), then tell them the length you want, the ratio, and the threading for the tie rods....the part number is built from that.  You can call and talk to them, they are very helpful.  You might not want exactly the same part number as mine anyway, depending on what steering ratio you want and other factors.

 

My outer tie rods were made from scratch by Woodward.  They do this all the time and it is very inexpensive.  You just need to know the thread of your inner tie rods (which come as part of the Woodward rack), and the thread of the Heim joints that thread into the other side. Keep in mind one end will be a LH thread and the other a RH thread, so that you can adjust your toe by turning the outer tie rod.

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Fancy you writing this on my build thread and then me spending the last hour at 4am catching up in yours 

 

“Fantastic project and work.  Every aspect of your metalwork is so impressive.  Honestly, it almost looks like you could have just built a new Z from scratch!”

 

Seriously? You kidding me right? I mean my work looks like the construction on a sardine can compared to this Hercelian “Transformers” build......... Pfffffffffffft

 

I am seriously going to raid some ideas 💡 I got from your thread and also outright steal others.

 

Please don’t leave any more sarcastic comments on my thread LMAO 😆 

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I got both headers finished.

 

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I am reasonably satisfied with the outcome, but I have to say this was a time consuming chore.  Enough of a chore, that if I was doing it over again I would plan the build in such a way that off-the shelf headers...like the Hawks...would be compatible.  In my case I could tell that my motor mounts and the Apex cross member braces would have prevented the Hawk headers from working.

 

In addition to not hitting or burning anything, I wanted to be able to install/remove the headers with the motor in the car.  This was very difficult on the passenger side.  As it turned out, I can do it, but I have to remove the Apex brace and the starter in order to do so.  I can live with that.

 

As I said before...hell with "equal length"....at the end of the day I was trying to find someplace they would fit...period.  The two headers look quite a bit different because the interference issues were different on each side.  On the driver's side the primary obstacle was the steering shaft and oil lines.  On the passenger side it was the starter, oil lines, and the crossmember brace.

 

Anyway, I am glad it's done.  Thanks for looking. 

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Great work! That is a tight fit. Those are going to work great for you. Much respect for the accomplishment. 

 

I think the take away with "custom" engine mounts is the buy a set of headers ahead of time, mock up with them and build around them. Haha. I wish I had too. 

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I got the cold air intake done....at least to where it passes through the radiator support.  It is done pretty much the same way every LS swapped Z, ever, has been done....but here it is regardless.

 

I just have to decide on an air filter.  I will probably just weld a piece of 90 degree aluminum tube to the outer flange, then use a cone filter on it.  The same sort of cone filter that adds at least 50 RWHP to any car they are installed on.

 

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Posted (edited)
23 minutes ago, CptButterfinger said:

 

Who's alternator mounting bracket is that? I was planning a similar alternator only belt routing, and this solution looks really slick. 

 

https://www.ictbillet.com/ls-truck-alternator-bracket-low-mount-lsx-ls3-lq4-lq9-l33-billet.html

 

IIRC the tensioner is the OEM one from the Pontiac GTO.

Edited by Ironhead

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I've started cutting up the rear quarter fenders to make room for the large tires and fender flares.

I have to say, cutting up rust free 45 year old OEM bodywork gives me a bit of pause....but that is my path....😯

 

 

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Wouldn't it create better airflow to put a flat filter upright in front of the tubing where it passes the radiator, rather than a sharp 90°-bend?
I'd imagine that that bend seriously messes with the airflow.

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1 hour ago, Max_S said:

Wouldn't it create better airflow to put a flat filter upright in front of the tubing where it passes the radiator, rather than a sharp 90°-bend?
I'd imagine that that bend seriously messes with the airflow.

 

I have no doubt there are better ways I could have done it....but I am not visualizing exactly what you mean....?

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4 minutes ago, Ironhead said:

 

I have no doubt there are better ways I could have done it....but I am not visualizing exactly what you mean....?

Just a quick paint-sketch:
Using a filter of this shape....

preview.jpg

 

...placed about there, flat against the flange where you now attached the 90° angled-bit (or maybe a bit further forward).

Filter.jpg

 

That takes one 90°-bend out of the route the air has to take, leading to a bit less turbulance in my understanding.

 

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While removing the bend would be beneficial the filter would be too small and you would loose flow and some hp. Even if the filter was 10cm by 10cm which is probably bigger than what would fit there it would be rated to less than 100hp.  If you could fit a velocity stack filter on in place of the one you have it could net some good benefits however.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, EF Ian said:

While removing the bend would be beneficial the filter would be too small and you would loose flow and some hp. Even if the filter was 10cm by 10cm which is probably bigger than what would fit there it would be rated to less than 100hp.  If you could fit a velocity stack filter on in place of the one you have it could net some good benefits however.

 

I agree Ian, but after perusing the 'net so far I haven't been able to find one that would both fit and be an improvement.  Vibrant makes a bell-mouth velocity stack with a 4" flange...what I would need...but the outer edge of the stack is 7" OD and thus far I have not found a filter that large.  I could modify the stack down to 6" OD, then weld on 6" tube for the filter...but I haven't really made a final decision yet.

 

Most velocity stack/filter combos I could find are made to be used in downdraft mode on top of a 4-barrel carb...and not only would not work in my application....but they also use a very small filter.

 

Pipercross probably makes a large foam filter that would work, but given a choice I would rather stick with the K&N style filter.

 

As with everything on this build...it is a work in progress.

Edited by Ironhead

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I finished the modification to the driver's side rear quarter, for large tires and flares....

 

I know some variation of this mod has been done to every "Z" car with flares, but I have to say I found it surprisingly difficult.  Lots and lots of welding the thin OEM sheet metal in awkward positions.  Lots of holes burned through the OEM sheet metal.  Lots of repairing these same holes.  But I got it done.  Now I have to do the passenger side.😆

 

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, LLave said:

You may have already stated this but, what flares are you running?

 

After a horrible experience with Carbon Signal:  

 

I ordered the 240YZ rear flares from ZTrix, and could not be happier with the fit and quality of them.  So that is what I am using in the rear.  They fit over the 315 wide tires perfectly (which is to say...just barely...LOL).  They were cheaper than Carbon Signal, and came from Arizona instead of Dubai.  I am still trying to remember what the hell I was thinking ordering from Carbon Signal...

 

Fronts will be Ztrix parts as well...either IMSA or YZ or some combination.

 

Thanks for the kind words. 

 

Edited by Ironhead

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