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I don't think there is any performance advantage to weld-in vs. bolt-in besides the fact that there is another connection point that can induce changes in geometry or failure points.  Really, I think it is mostly a matter of aesthetics though.    

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1 hour ago, seattlejester said:

^Not a good idea if you really want adjustment out of it. Despite how that looks it will only give about 1-2* of camber, and that may only bring it inline to norm. 

How is that possible? Camber adjustment at the top of the strut and at the bottom on the LCA will only give 1-2 degrees of adjustment?

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Sorry I should have clarified I'm talking about that style of camber plate in particular. The ones on the rear for example are maxed out in my application. Even with adjustable arms in the rear the alignment guys were only able to get it to -2 or so without going funny with the lengths. That means my adjustment is from like -2 to -3.5 using the camber tops. You can adjust via control arms, but in the rear that means turning two turn buckles on each side without load on the wheels. Much more of a hassle than undoing 4 allen bolts sliding. 

The merit to a good camber plate for me is being able to make an adjustment easily. Undo a few bolts slide and get a good range of camber adjustment, for me that means several degrees. If you have your camber plates set to max and you barely get into range with an adjustable lower arm then you could be stuck in a situation like I am where you kind of go from aggressive to extra aggressive, instead of moderate to aggressive.

This may all be moot for someone who sets their camber and never looks at it again. In the front you can also get away with funny LCA lengths as you don't have an axle to deal with.

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