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Ford Super 8.8 irs swap thread. Rear brakes too


Invincibleextremes

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Those plates on the right are tabs to weld to existing coilovers, and use 2014 mustang spindles up front and the kit in the rear.

The one with the hole is a replacement ball joint pocket to splice with the control arms and use new ball joints instead of cutting up used mustang control arms for the front spindle swap. 

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  • 2 months later...

Couple pics of older versions some guys finished, and some of the updates for version 7.  Version 7 completely sold out and it's been 6 days a week welding and other work for me.  

 

Btw, those interested in running +20mm offset wheels on factory fenders can contact me and I'll have their cv shafts in a custom length.

 

There's a seperate thread for the front conversion using 2014 mustang spindles, but some guys widen their track width using custom ball joint pockets for a mustang, and then use easy to find wheels made for a 240sx, but with the longer bearing life and better scrub radius of not using spacers or negative offset wheels.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Some guys choose to widen their track and use commonly available positive offset wheels without spacers.

 

Additional length axle shafts aren't a problem at all, just let me know ahead of time.

 

To date, there have been NO issues with anyone breaking mounts, or breaking either the axles or the diff.

 

Or howling or vibrations from the diff.

 

Thousands of miles, more than a dozen cars on the actual road and track, with cars continuing to be in various stages of completion day by day.

 

I will however advice people to measure the axle plunge on their axles if using aftermarket control arms, and to contact me for longer shafts if needed, which I have traded for no extra cost.

 

Pulling out the inner cv is no fun and easily avoided.

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  • 4 months later...

This guy used base model v6 2015 rear brakes on the kit and kept his rear mounted sway bar as well.

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And here's another one from a different car.

 

David recently swapped to a 3.55 lsd differential from the 3.31 he was using and continues to relentlessly abuse his setup without a care in the world.

 

Andrew and his procharged super clean gold car is out there constantly as well.

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Edited by Invincibleextremes
Pictures.
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Question about gear ratios for the 8.8 rear... earlier in this thread, one of the posters mentioned a Top Loader transmission.  That has 1:1 highest gear, correct?  Meanwhile, I run a Doug Nash 5-speed... also 1:1 5th gear... but a pretty deep 1st gear.  To match such transmissions, the preferred rear-end ratio would therefore be numerically small... 2.73, or even lower.  But the numerically lowest ratio that we saw in this thread, mentioned for the 8.8", is 3.15.  That's still too high.  Is anything lower available?  

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11 minutes ago, Michael said:

Question about gear ratios for the 8.8 rear... earlier in this thread, one of the posters mentioned a Top Loader transmission.  That has 1:1 highest gear, correct?  Meanwhile, I run a Doug Nash 5-speed... also 1:1 5th gear... but a pretty deep 1st gear.  To match such transmissions, the preferred rear-end ratio would therefore be numerically small... 2.73, or even lower.  But the numerically lowest ratio that we saw in this thread, mentioned for the 8.8", is 3.15.  That's still too high.  Is anything lower available?  

 

3.15 is it.  While not ideal it definitely beats dealing with the many issues the explorer IRS differential has.

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2 minutes ago, Michael said:

Any thoughts on doing something like this, with a classical Ford 9"?

Dss sells a 9 inch IRS conversion for the 2015 mustang.  You might have to clearance some parts of my kit to make it work but it's possible.

 

Not a cheap proposition btw, because you would be needing to buy my kit, their kit and still build the 9 inch center itself...

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  • 1 month later...

Chiming-in with a bit of an obvious question here...

 

Some of us are pretty keen on replacing the differential, half-shafts, companion flanges and stub axles.  But not necessarily the Chapman struts... especially if we've gone through the trouble of replacing spindle pins and sourcing that most elusive of animals, namely straight/true control arms and Chapman struts (many had the uprights welded askance).  That being so, is there any possibility of replacing the aforementioned driveline parts, but fitting them into the factory Chapman struts?  Or do the struts have to go?

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9 minutes ago, Michael said:

Chiming-in with a bit of an obvious question here...

 

Some of us are pretty keen on replacing the differential, half-shafts, companion flanges and stub axles.  But not necessarily the Chapman struts... especially if we've gone through the trouble of replacing spindle pins and sourcing that most elusive of animals, namely straight/true control arms and Chapman struts (many had the uprights welded askance).  That being so, is there any possibility of replacing the aforementioned driveline parts, but fitting them into the factory Chapman struts?  Or do the struts have to go?

It'd be a ton of machining to be able to somehow bolt the mustang Bearing to the stock strut. Otherwise it'd be next to impossible to somehow get the mustang CV end and hub to work in the stock bearing housing.

You're not replacing your "straight/true" control arms...they will be utilized.

 

I am utilizing the stock strut tube. I'll be cutting it off, caping the bottom appropriately, and then welding to the new hub housing. It's more or less just fabricating a new chapman strut housing, but all the hard part of that fabrication is done for you.

 

SIDENOTE for this thread...if anyone has modified the mustang hub for 4 bolt use, please let me know. Just wanting to know the nitty gritties if you somehow reinforced the hub or just utilized relocated studs in the thinner portion of the hub.

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Yes you can weld tabs to the datsun strut and use that, but I don't recommend it.  I did it one time and will never again.  Up front especially it becomes a nightmare to work around.  

 

Converting to 4 lug is recommended by sending the hubs to a professional that will build up the low side and then machine and drill for new studs.  Not cheap.

 

Here's another customer pic.  I don't always get pictures back, but when I do I try to remember to post them.

 

Btw it's been over 2 years now since the first v8 datsun drove on one of these differentials and he has had no issues despite thousands of miles, constantly abusing the car and repeatedly hitting 165 mph at different times.

 

There have been various improvements through the versions but the same bulletproof design concepts carry on.

 

No other setups have withstood the abuse that this differential handles with ease.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have been waiting for my axles and front end swap brackets now for 10 months. I have been trying to contact Vlad but he has completely ignored all of my messages. I can see that his profile is online and active yet weeks go by with no reply at all. I don't want to have to post here but i don't see any other option. I spent a lot of money on all the donor parts needed for this kit and can't do shit with it without the missing pieces.

 

I want to get my car moving. Please send me the parts that I need to finish this job.

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1 hour ago, ///M3 & Z said:

I have been waiting for my axles and front end swap brackets now for 10 months. I have been trying to contact Vlad but he has completely ignored all of my messages. I can see that his profile is online and active yet weeks go by with no reply at all. I don't want to have to post here but i don't see any other option. I spent a lot of money on all the donor parts needed for this kit and can't do shit with it without the missing pieces.

 

I want to get my car moving. Please send me the parts that I need to finish this

Thank you for FINALLY providing a USA shipping address.  Parts will be shipped there.

Edited by Invincibleextremes
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