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5 lug, 4 wheel big disc brake, and coilovers for pennies using 2014 mustang spindle and brakes


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  • 2 months later...

Kyle is building a v12 swapped 2+2 and here's what he used up front...

 

2014 mustang ball joints.

2014 mustang spindles 

2014 mustang GT 13.2 inch brakes

2004 mustang outer tie rods, we cut half inch off of them, they're fully threaded so we didn't see any issue with that.

1985 Camry inner tie rods.

2004 Subaru legacy steering rack.

 

He used silvermine coilovers. We rotated the camber plates and used them to add caster, and flipped control arms left to right... 

 

Planning on using adjustable tension rods to move the wheels back about half an inch.

IMG_20200829_204518_166.jpg

IMG_20200829_212512_378.jpg

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Ok, I am doing this mod and wanted to shore up a few things about the tie rods.  I will be using:

2014 mustang spindles 

2006 mustang calipers and v6 rotors (to clear 15" wheels)

280z BC racing coilovers (with Vlad adapter plates)

Factory 280z manual rack (I think.. Any way to tell for sure?)

 

I have seen it mentioned that I can just purchase the T3 outer tie rods and use a 5/8" drill bit to bore out the 2014 mustang spindle?  Is this the right one: ( https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/high-clearance-outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z ) ?

Or do I have to order a custom outer tie rod from T3?   

 

What about the Apex Engineered outer tie rods?

 

I am also thinking about swapping left and right control arms and use adjustable tension rods to move the wheels back a bit.  Any downsides to this?

 

Thanks

Edited by fusion
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Hard to tell for sure; but those T3 high-clearance tie rod ends appear to have standard tapered pins on them; which obviously means you wouldn't want to drill out the steering knuckles.  I would call T3 to verify.

 

I bought T3's adjustable tie rod ends a few years ago; and they used a 5/8" bolt at the tie rod end; which meant I did have to drill out my stock steering knuckles to accept the bolt.  They were a different style than these new high-clearance tie rod ends that T3 is offering. 

 

Last time I looked at the Apex adjustable tie rod ends, they were also using a tapered pin, compatible with the S30 stock steering knuckle.  (Just an FYI, Apex has had some product availability issues lately; so call them to check if in stock before ordering.)

 

Moving your front axles "back" will reduce what little caster there is in the stock suspension...which is the opposite of what most people want (for performance driving or track use.)  Why are you wanting to do this modification?

 

P.S.  May want to start a new thread; just so this conversation doesn't go off on too much of an off-topic tangent from Vlad's original thread.  Your call....

Edited by jhm
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2 minutes ago, jhm said:

Hard to tell for sure; but those T3 high-clearance tie rod ends appear to have standard tapered pins on them; which obviously means you wouldn't want to drill out the steering knuckles.  I would call T3 to verify.

 

I bought T3's adjustable tie rod ends a few years ago; and they used a 5/8" bolt at the tie rod end; which meant I did have to drill out my stock steering knuckles to accept the bolt.  They were a different style than these new high-clearance tie rod ends that T3 is offering. 

 

FYI, you can email them and ask them to include the straight pins rather than the tapered ones.

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Just for clarification the new t3 tie rods are the exact taper needed for 2014 mustang control arms.  No drilling needed.  They bolt right up, gold car did exactly that.

 

And as to the caster, only way this mod works well is if the camber plates up top are rotated and used to move the shock backwards the same amount or more then the entire control arm is moved down below.

 

Or in David's case with the blue car, he did the caster up top but kept the control arms the same, and cut the fender to clear his tires since he flared the car anyway.

 

Here is a picture of the gold car and the t3 clearance style tie rods.

IMG_20200227_213712_561.jpg

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3 hours ago, Invincibleextremes said:

Just for clarification the new t3 tie rods are the exact taper needed for 2014 mustang control arms.  No drilling needed.  They bolt right up, gold car did exactly that.

So the 2014 mustang spindle is the exact same taper as a 280z knuckle?

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Ok, my next question is about the location of the wheels.  If I bolt the mustang spindle on, the wheel will be sitting 0.75" forward from normal.  I don't want to cut my fenders so I want to move it back to center.  To accomplish this, I can swap left and right control arms and use adjustable tension rods.   Does this put the wheel centered in the wheel well?  If so, why does the coilover need to be moved backwards via rotated camber plates?  

 

Thanks

 

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So after thinking about this more, I'm assuming that the reason for needing to move the top of the coilover back is because even though flipping the control arms moves the wheel back close to the original location, the location of the coilover lower mount is too far back, thus requiring the upper mount moved back.  Is this correct?

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
  • 6 months later...

Quick question on this setup, so you welded the outer tip of mustang control arm to stock Datsun control arm?  

 

I have the old style T3 control arms already on my car, so do I need to cut and weld the mustang ball joint to them? Or can the mustang ball joint just be bolted onto the aftermarket control arm?
 

I apologize if this seems like a dumb question, I started working on this car 10 years ago and then life happened and it hasn’t been touched since.   Just now trying to get back into working on it again and trying to gather all of the info that I can before I do. And the car isn’t home with me at the moment so I can’t just run out and look at it to try to visualize it better.  Thanks in advance.
 

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