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XplosiveLugnut

L24 Crank Damper Replacement Options

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So the damper on my 240 has separated about half an inch. Glad it didn't fly apart before I noticed, that would've gotten expensive.

 

Some considerations for replacements: I've been wanting a crank trigger wheel to start working on a distributor-less ignition/EFI project and it needs two rows for AC.

 

I figure I've got 4 options:

 

* Buy a used L28 damper (see you guys in the classifieds!) and bolt a DIYAutoTune type trigger wheel to the front where the third row would go.

* Have my damper rebuilt and still not have a good trigger wheel solution aside from the Hoke Performance kit.

* Get some brand new expensive trick custom thing like an ATI or BHJ damper.

* Luck out on the classifieds and get offered something that works with no modification on my end.

 

Any thoughts? Other options I've not thought of? Anyone have experience with these solutions?

 

Thanks!

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Wow funny coincidence.  I literally just photographed my Electromotive HPV-1 Distributorless ignition setup so I can put it up for sale in the next few days.    If you're interested feel free to PM me (it'll be sold as a full kit).  But to answer your question more directly;  The way I handled the crank trigger is by buying a fairly inexpesive 60-2 trigger wheel online (I think it actually was off ebay), and having a local CNC shop machine two rounded slots in it so that it would bolt to the front of the 240Z 2-row pulley that I'm running.  The 240Z pulley works great because it has such a flat front face and two bolt holes in it meant for a pulley puller.  The slots are great because it allows you to set the base timing to whatever tooth you like.  I think all in all I paid $60CAD for the trigger wheel and another $60CAD for machining.  Not bad for $120!  As for the sensor I just used some aluminum pieces to make that myself.  (Remember that it has to be aluminum otherwise it'll throw off the magnetic sensor)

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Thanks for the feedback!

 

Still thinking about it, but I'm leaning towards KevvinG's solution. I know I've thought about doing exactly that at one point. I don't think I liked that the trigger wheel was held  on with two bolts or that it wouldn't be located easily with only two bolts. But if it's been done successfully, it seems like the easiest way to do it. Did you go to any great pains to make sure the trigger wheel had no runout?

 

I really like the flywheel method too. It'll be perfect for my other project that's in a million pieces, but I'm in no hurry to take the flywheel back off my current driver. It's also aluminum, so there'd be a few more steps involved. And that might not even be a good idea to begin with.

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