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Richard Oben

Richard Oben LS1 series 1 240Z build

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Thought I would give this an update.  I had been chasing a vibration for a while, since I first drove the car.  Changed Diff, changed rear outer stubs, put struts and springs on at the same time.  See above.  All kinds of stuff, tires were swapped, everything but the inner stubs. 

 

Could not find the vibration.  Well, we put the car on my lift with the tires just off the lift and ran it.  (Scary stuff for sure).  We found the issue, the inner new DSS stubs were jumping a lot.  Some one once said new and good are two different things.  Sent an email to DSS asking the run out spec, .020 max, ours were almost double that.  Took them to a machine shop and they put them on a lathe. Once on the lathe it was easy the see the parts were bent.  I can tell everyone we did not bend them, no idea how I could if I tried.  The machinist thought it was a result of an incorrect heat treatment process.  Sent a bunch of videos to DSS and a few other car guys I know.  Everyone agreed, bent.  

 

Sent them to DSS, they grumbled a bit about the age, 3 years since purchase, but only 1,700 miles though.  And the fact they were bent, I just can imagine any way to bend them, without major trauma like an axle breaking.  The stubs are in some pictures above.  Both were bent.   

 

To DSS credit, they did a full warranty on 3.5 year old parts and replaced the stubs at no cost.  

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Posted (edited)

Update time again.  We have been driving the car without vibration for a few months (woo hoo).  All is going well.  Going to re-balance the tires before the upcoming trip to Branson for Z con. 

 

We dug up the file and for those who asked what it costs to do a V8 LS1 T56 Z, I have MY answer, not THE answer.  

 

We started with a $1,000 240Z shell, and a $3,200 Donor car that consisted of a 2004 GTO.   Bone stock LS1, LS7 clutch, T56 CXRacing kit, 8.8 out of a Lincoln, with mounts, 930 CVs, custom axles, AC, rear discs, etc. yada, yada, yada.  A lot of explanation is above.    


Grand total 16,888.00.  

We think we got everything, but may have some ancillary parts we forgot.  

 

Do yourself a favor get a Camaro or Firebird, replacing parts on the GTO was not worth the extra money.  Pan, alternator, shifter, etc.   It was wrecked hard enough I couldn't and didn't take the time to part it out completely, never found the clutch master cylinder!!  Did part out some of it and used it to pay to fixed the head on the driver side that was smashed in the wreck.  The up side is the car had to be low mileage, everything was very clean inside and out, no issues so far.   

 

We have not painted the car or finished the interior (have the parts here so they are in the above total).  No Stereo yet, either, thinking Box in the back and blue tooth. 

 

In short this is not a project for the faint of heart or wallet.  For the $17K I could have bought a used C5 corvette or a 996 Porsche.  So plan wisely, double the budget, I hoped to be under $10k, and double the labor time.  BUT I would not trade the car for the fun it is and conversations I have had with it and about it.  We did everything on the car, from welding the bad dog rails in to wiring the car and connection to the paid for cut down harness.   

 

HTH, Richard.     

Edited by Richard Oben
added clarity.

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Nice build! Definitely an inspiration for my build. I have a couple of GTO related questions if you don't mind. I saw you installed an A/C compressor... how did you get the A/C system to work since the GTO ECU doesn't have a request A/C pin? Also, what did you do for cooling fan control? Since the GTO computer only has the high speed cooling fan control, i am trying to decide if it is worth reprogramming the computer again to enable the low speed fan or if I should just use a thermometer controlled fan.

 

Thanks for the help!

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Posted (edited)

We used the John's cars compressor kit.  We also had the LS1 Wire diet guys do the wiring of the computer. If they are not listed above I have the receipt, found them on eBay.  There is an AC request on all LS1 computers as far as I know.  We sent the Vintage air 12 volts to that, used the trinary switch from the GTO to talk to the computer.  The computer then sends a 12 v signal to the Under hood fuse panel that has a relay.  We just put a relay on the fender by the compressor with 12V from the battery.  Works fine.  We did have to get a fitting and TIG in the trinary switch though.  Used the one from the GTO and used an in line port fitting.  

 

The advantage is the computer runs the AC, WOT cut out, under or over pressure, over 40 MPH no fan, over 4000 RPM cut off.  Lots of good stuff happens.  GM engineers are a lot better at this stuff than we are.  This may help on the pin out info.

 

http://lt1swap.com/2004gto_pcm_pinouts.htm

 

 

We had the LS1 diet guys do the fan control also.  They gave us Fan out, fuel pump out, OBD 11 out, AC out, great work on their part.  We used a Z shroud (came with car) and some brackets to mount a fan from one of the suppliers, 3000 CFM single speed.  Works great.

 

HTH, Richard.  

Edited by Richard Oben
added link

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Thanks! I think I'm starting to understand how it works. On the 04 GTO pinouts there is no A/C request pin... if you look at pin #17 it is empty. I'll talk to the guy who programs my computer and see if he can enable that function. Without that I don't see how the ECU would know to give power to things, adjust idle, etc. I might consider running A/C independent of the GTO ECU if things get overly complicated. I also like the idea of a single large fan. 

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It could be pin 45 in the above diagram.  They were a bit surprised we wanted it but once explained they totally understood.  

 

When we built an FFR GTM, we did it this way.  

 

On the Hot Rod power tour the painless guys were confused also, they just let the AC be the AC and ECU be the ECU.  Which makes no sense to me but who am I.  Oh yea the guy that never blew up a compressor from over revving, or bad pressures.   

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We used the John's cars compressor kit.  We also had the LS1 Wire diet guys do the wiring of the computer. If they are not listed above I have the receipt, found them on eBay.  There is an AC request on all LS1 computers as far as I know.  We sent the Vintage air 12 volts to that, used the trinary switch from the GTO to talk to the computer.  The computer then sends a 12 v signal to the Under hood fuse panel that has a relay.  We just put a relay on the fender by the compressor with 12V from the battery.  Works fine.  We did have to get a fitting and TIG in the trinary switch though.  Used the one from the GTO and used an in line port fitting.  

 

The advantage is the computer runs the AC, WOT cut out, under or over pressure, over 40 MPH no fan, over 4000 RPM cut off.  Lots of good stuff happens.  GM engineers are a lot better at this stuff than we are.  This may help on the pin out info.

 

Fortunately my 280Z already had factory AC when JCI was developing their components on it so it was just a matter of making the compressor fit and then work with the Datsun controls.

1634344974_LS1V8.jpg.2e0aee4805153899e549b6b76a493d42.jpg

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Small update on LSZ as my wife calls it Leslie, other woman etc.  My wife drove the old girl to Branson Z fest from home.  3.5 HOURS each way, No issues, AC running all good.  Now the list, needs tunes, cruise control and a cup holder.  I trailered the yellow car down as it was too close not to attend a national event.  Richard. 

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