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240z with L26 - ITBs, EFI, megasquirt


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6 hours ago, rossman said:

Is that silicone hose you are using to mount your ITBs to the manifold? I'm pretty sure fuel will break down the silicone.


Yes, its silicone hose, but the fuel injectors are down the line past the hoses and on the manifold flange. Do you think it would still cause problems? Worst case I can always weld it up, the hoses were about $20.

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I'm going to be plugging my old feed, return, and vent holes off the tank and using the stuff from the new pump mount. What are my options for plugging the openings? Are there any fuel safe rubber caps? Or do I have to go with the bolt clamped into a fuel hose method?

My datsun's mysterious history continues to baffle me. Started working on installing the fuel pump in the tank today. Cut open the top, cleaned it up etc. Found these guys rattling around inside the tank. No clue where they came from. Any ideas guys?
IMG_20180129_182459.jpg.e9ea7548e0ed68d8fbf7c5f2b7f7ddb4.jpg

Edited by nmehdikh
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Started test fitting stuff to check clearances. Also got the fuel pump installed in the tank this weekend. Next weekend is probably going to be running fuel lines, while still procrastinating the mess that is wiring. I also need to get another set of triumph velocity stacks, because the two sets I have are currently mismatched...

IMG_20180211_135706.thumb.jpg.c074ef239a7b76a66cd16ec4a66df4be.jpg

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I got a couple questions for you guys.

1) Since I'm going to be running LS coils, what kind of spark plugs should I run and at what gap?

2) Since I rebuild the head and it has a brand new cam, what break-in procedure do you guys recommend? And what oil should I run during break-in?

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Thanks for the info guys. I appreciate it.

This weekend is pretty busy for me so I didn't have much time to work on the car. In the meantime, I finalized the header and intake install and they are on for good. I had to wait for a new gasket that arrived a couple days ago. I also got the thermostat housing on, and the fuel rail and injectors. The throttle bodies are still only on there temporarily.

IMG_20180217_130317.thumb.jpg.e4344c019ea3dbd28b323814a5a29647.jpg

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While I've been doing all this work on the car, I've been in contact with Softopz, and he's been making me a megasquirt harness for my needs. He recently sent me work in progress pics, and has been great to deal with. I'd highly recommend him if you are interested in going the megasquirt route.

 

Here is a link to his thread where he sells harnesses.

 


20180221_064100.jpg.96ff33c7bde2c952fa69d0145f1c172b.thumb.jpg.0e7b71bda4977e8cf083d46d753011c2.jpg20180221_064353.jpg.a425a268a228d5fed63ffed1c69b03cf.thumb.jpg.b80f1470637508530335158020846c05.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

I've been traveling for work the past few weeks so I haven't been able to get much done. But this weekend has been pretty productive.

Got the distributor swapped over to the turbo distributor to give me crank angle and cam position. Got the AC compressor mounted as well.IMG_20180407_145123.thumb.jpg.15f67f3cc7115d3c935bd8b043fdea61.jpg
 

I had to CAD up and mill out a little bracket to adapt the throttle linkage to the factory triumph cable pull.
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Here is the completed linkage and a crappy vertical video
IMG_20180407_145127.thumb.jpg.aed5c9d9c1f24233a7be32b5f64ff0f0.jpg

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  • 5 weeks later...

Progress has been slow due to the following factors :

  • Finals
  • Finding a new apartment
  • Work travel
  • Graduating from college this week
  • Starting a new job on Monday

But I had some time this afternoon so I made a mount for the coil packs and got that done. There has also been progress on wiring. chassis re-wiring is done. Need to finish up gauges and tie it all in with the engine harness. Slow and steady.

IMG_20180507_145733.thumb.jpg.d66cf7733fd305df8437f74eabf90e47.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Updates!

1) Got the vintage air unit mounted under the dash and AC lines plumbed to a bulkhead fitting in the firewall.
2) Plumbed heater hoses to the vintage air unit as well
3) Got fuel lines completely finished up and mounted up. Including regulator and tank vents.
4) Started plumbing vacuum lines, about 75% done

In the next couple of weekends I'll probably be finishing up the vacuum lines. Then mounting the radiator, fan, and coolant plumbing.

I also had some time with one of the 3d printers at work, so I modeled up a velocity stack and printed it for some practice. The surface of the print has not been cleaned up at all, hence the left overs from the supports and rough finish.

1.thumb.PNG.7a6f5f28277160265599b1ce7e01b5a3.PNG

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  • 6 months later...

Its been a while since I updated this. Work and grad school really taking up most of my time. But if any of you guys are interested, this crazy idea actually worked. I was able to fire up the car a couple days ago. I wouldn't have been able to do it without the help of softopz or chickenman, if anyone is considering a megasquirt setup, definitely contact them.

Here it is warmed up and idling. I haven't messed with the idle screws on the ITBs at all, nor have I completely figured out my IAC yet, but it manages to maintain idle all the way down at 550 rpm. I did a cold valve adjustment when I put the head on, and rechecked it again after running it for a short bit, but I am still getting a lot of valve train noise. The head was rebuilt since the car last ran, and it now has a isky L-490 cam in it. Isky recommended valve clearance of 0.008 for intake and 0.010 for exhaust.

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipN_NSWTqU1tN3p8_JVp7szJaDdhc5ZWN0e7GPRV5N3Po2cQ5dEdTi5KxlpcsvwEbw?key=M1h6WjB6LVFYa1pBNkFkUWpDdy1scnVnZ3RYT3NR
 

Here are some short revs to 3k
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPw4LY1RrPY9tM2cJXfVbCpmwAxgEaBIFc62txmmWP2fCwzQAILc4LDuIZNwGHQ7w?key=akJQbnRiSzdaNFhTU2JCdExZZ2pfQ3h1eTF2a05n

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Yeah I hear you, just slowly ticking away at it.

I have a question about Bosch Idle valves if someone might have some experience with them. I'm using a bosch IAC out of a early 2000s VW (pictured below). The valve behaves as expected, and I can see it close at the proper duty cycles. However, it's only effecting my idle by about 50 rpm. If I put my thumb infront of the idle hole, I can still feel a lot of air being sucked in through the valve even when its fully closed. If I fully cover the IAC intake, the engine shuts down. Are these valves supposed to seal at fully closed? Or do they still leak air by? I think I might have a defective valve.

 

s-l1600.jpg

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It's driven from the megasquirt and behaving as it should. At 0% duty cycle, its slightly open. At 35% duty cycle, its fully closed. At 100% duty cycle, its fully open. The 0% slightly open mode is a fail safe mode.

This thread shows the expected behavior of the valve.


Here is my valve, as you can see at 35% duty cycle, its closed. But it seems to not actually be sealing shut.
Capture.thumb.PNG.5246cca147649551be5ae0e1ffed27a2.PNG

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