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After welding up the trim holes I started thinking about the big dent in the rear fender area. The previous owner said it was caused by a tree falling on the car.

 

This is what it originally looked like:

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The plan was to have profesionales fix this spot but I decided to give it a try.

 

First, I hammered down high spots and then pulled out the creases / craters with a slide hammer.

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Next, I welded up the holes left by the self tapping screws where the slide hammer attaches.

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Finally, a quick coat of temporary primer. The finished result is far from perfect, but now we can just use body filler to fill in the remaining imperfections.

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Big build updates to come soon! We found an LS1/T56 from an 04' GTO with lower mileage that is going in the car. With this engine, we found a unique tanksinc fuel system that I will be posting pictures of which will work nicely. 

 

I have two quick questions about the GTO engine for anyone that has done this swap ( I should probably post this in the chevy section).

 

1) Has anyone used stock 04 GTO exhaust manifolds successfully in an S30?

2) Am I correct in thinking that the GTO oil pan will not work because of the front sump and I need to switch to the F-Body style?

 

Thanks in advance!

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1) not sure.

 

2) yes. The best pan to swap to is now the ls3 Corvette pan as it is only 5in in depth vs the 5.5in for the standard f body pan. It does cost more however. When I used the f body pan, I just bought it from jegs at the link below.

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance/809/19212593/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710617647&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848102&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKEAiAjsunBRCy3LSlz_PJqCgSJACJY7yKZxNrqEL8j_Jq8Ixh7drpumY1VwzWCYc2fmoDyB2L7xoC1w_w_wcB

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On 5/19/2019 at 10:24 AM, walkerbk said:

1) not sure.

 

2) yes. The best pan to swap to is now the ls3 Corvette pan as it is only 5in in depth vs the 5.5in for the standard f body pan. It does cost more however. When I used the f body pan, I just bought it from jegs at the link below.

 

https://www.jegs.com/i/GM+Performance/809/19212593/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710617647&CAGPSPN=pla&catargetid=230006180000848102&cadevice=c&gclid=CjwKEAiAjsunBRCy3LSlz_PJqCgSJACJY7yKZxNrqEL8j_Jq8Ixh7drpumY1VwzWCYc2fmoDyB2L7xoC1w_w_wcB

 

Thank you for the help! I think I found a complete LS3 oil pan kit (pan, pickup, and windage tray) on craigslist for $100 so that's probably the way to go.

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Over the past few months, we have made significant progress on the 280z.  

 

First, most of the bodywork has been completed. 

The old rust spots with new patch panels were given a coat of Bondo to smooth them out.

 

hatch:

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Fender:

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Rear Quarter Panels:

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Roof Pillar:

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The Bumper area was also completely smoothed to get the classic 240z look:

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+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++=

 

 

 

We also started installing all the things that make the car stop.

 

We had to paint the calipers red:

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Created Firewall insulation before installing the pedal box. We just cut up some generic insulation from Amazon to make this work.

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Pedal Box and steering column:

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Booster and Master Cylinder:

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Hard Lines for the brakes:

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We also picked up an aluminum 5.7L LS1 from a 2004 Pontiac GTO!

We found the engine in a junkyard from a side impact GTO and it has about 1K miles but seems to be in decent condition.

The engine will be installed using the JCI kit including the transmission cross member.

 

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First up, all the wiring connectors were labeled and we had the computer reprogrammed to remove VATS and other unnecessary parameters.

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This white body connector plug for the GTO LS1's has most of the wires that will run to the fuse block and relays. 

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Two of the exhaust bolt were snapped off flush with the block. We were told this might be a result of the exhaust manifolds warping from the heat. 

I tried to weld a nut onto the bolt to get them out. I couldn't get enough penetration to make this work so we ended up using an extractor. Unfortunately, this didn't work either and we ended up having to drill out the bolts and re-tap the threads. 

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The engine was cleaned with the famous Chrisfix degreaser (soapy water :) ), wire brushes, and Scotch-Brite pads. The biggest concern here was making sure all bolt holes were thoroughly clean so the aluminum won't crack.

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This basically just took a lot of time and scrubbing. 

 

 

 

Now, we need to order/install a fuse block and relays, mount the engine in the car, and see if it will run. It's that easy right!

 

 

 

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

To feed this engine we need a dialed fuel system. Although the stock tank can be used with an external pump, we decided to go a different route because our tank was way too rusty and replacements are hard to find at a decent price. Also, an in-tank pump is better for noise levels and consistency. This meant the spare tire well had to go. 

 

Ready:

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Set:

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Gone:

IMG_1792.thumb.JPG.483c9847356c484a8f810fa80f9bfa13.JPG

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So much room for activities now!

 

We went with an 18-gallon universal tank from Tanksinc that is internally baffled for an in-tank Walbro pump. 

IMG_1940.thumb.JPG.75dacf28c197c5a7adb496b6bc1932a4.JPG

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The filler neck lines up pretty good and will just need some custom rubber hose that we can probably find at AutoZone. The only real fabrication necessary is the create some solid straps to hold the tank in place. This is being mocked up in Solidworks right now and the tank will hopefully be installed soon. More on this to come.

 

Sorry for the long post but that brings the build up to date. It still has a ways to go but things are coming together. 

 

 

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