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rabrooks

Front Suspension Swap? Anybody done one

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2 hours ago, rabrooks said:

At this point, this is all hypothetical. My plan is to keep the SIA as close to factory by moving the top of the strut out on the camber plate the same amount as I stretch the LCA. The LCA may get a little longer than what I can move out the top of the strut but not by much. I would set the negative camber after that setup is in place. and adjust whichever end makes the most sense given all the new geometry. So try to imagine taking the factory geometry and moving it outboard  while leaving the wide tires where they sit. I just get a wheel with a different offset, something more in the positive offset range. I haven't laid this out to see how wide a tire I can get mounted with this setup before the inner tire wall hits the strut. I could move the tire back out again with a different offset wheel to get the tire off the strut.
 

If none of this lays out correctly, I'll just have to deal with the scrub.

 

On the double ball joint setup, I ran across a BMW in the pick and pull with the complete front suspension. I may go back and pull it. I may be able to work out that setup or some version of it. I have a 335i. I've been looking at it trying to decide if I should do this. I'm willing to invest in the pick and pull parts for the sake of trying to figure it out. Just by coincidence, I have a complete set of lower control arms for my 335. I recently bought them to replace the old ones.

Tube80z and JMortensen are correct, there's no free lunch on this. The only place you might "cheat" a little are coilovers with the smaller diameter spring allowing a little more width and larger diameter wheels the same. I think you either optimize what's there with coilovers, camber plates etc. the best you can and deal with it or go the SLA direction and clean sheet.

 

I am planning similar direction to tube80z but am even more pathetic on progress. I don't think I'll use the double joint lower but wouldn't rule it out. Minimizing the distance between the wheel mount surface and the pivot would help things out quite a bit. The SLA will require pretty much a complete new front subframe but since mine is a crusty mess and needs replaced anyway, why not? Sadly a new house/shop and Murphy living in my back pocket have prevented much of anything looking like progress.

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With S13 spindles (and others, i believe) and longer LCA:s is possible to achieve near zero scrub. At least not so wide wheels. I´v got 8" rim and scrub max. 10mm.

You should keep about 50% ratio between caster and KPI. My car has 13-14 degrees KPI and ~7 dergees caster. Shock upper mount is moved outwards aswell...

20160821_194259.jpg

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Posted (edited)
On 3/1/2019 at 10:11 AM, TUME said:

With S13 spindles (and others, i believe) and longer LCA:s is possible to achieve near zero scrub. At least not so wide wheels. I´v got 8" rim and scrub max. 10mm.

You should keep about 50% ratio between caster and KPI. My car has 13-14 degrees KPI and ~7 dergees caster. Shock upper mount is moved outwards aswell...

20160821_194259.jpg

Would this work with control arms/ tie rods/TC Rods from Apex and/or T3? All attached to a stock Cross member? Trying to find a way to get rid of the front strut tube/spindle without breaking the bank with full T3/Apex Systems... and i like BC's. 

 

I've read through your build thread btw TUME, awesome work!

Edited by rbzed25

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https://youtu.be/N94E9jPvp84

 

This might be the ultimate truly engineered suspension swap kit made for the 240Z cars, check out the video it is amazing and Apex Engineering makes it for stock engine, RB, and V8's,

 

Bolt in upper and lower control arm conversion with 8.8 rear end that eliminates the rear mustache bar, and dog legs and converts it to a rear subframe that significantly strengthens the rear structure on the chassis.  This converts the McPherson strut to a modern double A arm dynamic.  This provides ability to adjust roll center, anti-squat, camber, caster, toe and many others.  Use the Viking dual adjustable coil overs with Hypercoil springs that was the winner of best engineered new product at SEMA 2014.  Also comes with axle shafts able to handle 1200 Ft/lbs of torque!

 

 

 

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On 5/24/2019 at 6:40 AM, rbzed25 said:

Would this work with control arms/ tie rods/TC Rods from Apex and/or T3? All attached to a stock Cross member? Trying to find a way to get rid of the front strut tube/spindle without breaking the bank with full T3/Apex Systems... and i like BC's. 

 

I've read through your build thread btw TUME, awesome work!

 

Thanks for comments.

Do you mean S13 control arms/TC rods.  I can't see why they won't work, of course it is possible they need some modifications but nothing major.

Of course left side arms goes to right, with S13 spindle and wise versa.

Also because longer arms, there will be enormous KPI angle which affects camber behaviour when turning wheel.

Thats why i modified shock upper mount in my car.

 

Btw, those ultimate bolt-on set doesn't ring my bells...

 

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Apex Engineered already has engineered not only a front crossmember and front and rear A-arms if you want to upgrade the stock design but they also have both a front and complete front and rear suspension swap that is bolt in.  No need to be experimental if you want to go extreme as they already worked out the design and executed in a high quality with a reasonable price given the design and components...

 

https://www.apexengineered.com/store/p25/Track_Attack-_Complete_Front_Suspension_Conversion.html

 

 

 

 

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