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seattlejester

Clutch pilot bearing removal

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Hey guys, I've asked on the specific make forum, but I feel like you guys may know of some other techniques.

 

How do you remove the clutch pilot bearing, with the caveat being if you have blown out the seal?

 

I was doing the hydraulic method and was using grease, then went and bought some bread as that was getting messy, got half a slice in there when the oil seal blew out and now it just pushes out the grease and even the bread between the ball bearings. 

 

The hole is like 12mm so the traditional pullers don't seem to fit, I ordered a generic one so I can modify it, but was hoping for some thoughts.

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That is kind of the problem at the moment. The hole is under 12mm, and the pilot bearing tool is for 1/2 inch at the minimum. I went to 3 auto stores and finally found one that had it, but when I measured it I found it would not fit the hole, and I thought they would frown if I brought their tool back ground down.

 

I ordered one so I can maybe grind down the jaws, but was hoping someone knew of a tool that got small enough.

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20 minutes ago, seattlejester said:

5C9BB6FF-09DD-4F18-9C05-B04FD27FCE71_zps

 

Except the orange seal is now blown out so the ball bearings are exposed and the grease/bread is coming through.

 

The grease approach only works if you get a good seal around a pilot bushing as with a SBC. On my SBC projects the grease technique worked on the pilot bushing well enough sometimes to move the bushing out enough to get a puller on it. Sometimes I had to chisel a groove in the bushing and then collapse it to get it out. None of this will work with a bearing.

 

Try a different puller. Failing that, you may  have to pull the flywheel and take it to a machine shop.

 

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If it was on the fly wheel I would just pop it off and press it out. 

 

Unfortunately this thing is in the crank, I really don't want to disassemble the motor.

 

Some people have mentioned what you suggested as a method, just basically destroying the bearing with a chisel and scraping out the remnants, but I feel like that is an absolute last resort, I really don't want to be hammering the bearing in case it pushes it further in and then I have no room to try and get it out.

 

 

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Hmm paper may be big enough to not bass through the balls. That may be an option

 

I was thinking trying to weld something onto it, but didn't want to plug up my only access hole so to speak as well as not wanting to put a lot of heat into it near the rear main seal which as with seemingly all toyota seals costs quite a bit and is the only recommended seal. 

 

So game plan as of now:

Try the bearing puller and slide hammer if it fits

Try paper

Grind down bearing puller to fit and hope it doesn't break

If it breaks, paper doesn't work, then weld a bolt with the same thread as the slide hammer and go to town

 

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News paper bro. Just soak it and stuff it, then to compress it use a socket and tap it down (socket needs to fit inside the pilot bearing). I used this method to remove a pilot bearing that rusted to the crank after sitting for only God knows how long (ma70 Supra block).

Edited by Geno750

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6 hours ago, Geno750 said:

News paper bro

 

I just worry it will squish out of the bearing, I'll definitely add it to my repertoire though

 

6 hours ago, Miles said:

blind hole bearing removal tool

 

I think we have a winner!

 

It seems to be half price on amazon, so I placed an order, should be here by Thursday.

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34 minutes ago, seattlejester said:

Also just wanted to say, I really appreciate you guys.

 

I asked on the specific make forum because I figured they might know off the bat, wasn't nearly the case. Maybe I'm one of the first ever to have blown out the seal making me seem like an insane person.

 

 

TYpical car stuff. Post your solution.

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I'll have to try newspaper some other time, but no dice on the tools.

 

The blind bearing puller fit easily, but seems like it maxed out just a little after grabbing the bearing so after a few pulls it would fly out, either the threads run out too fast or something I'll have to look at it again later.

 

The conventional tool had no chance of fitting at all. It is advertised for 1/2 an inch but it was like 16mm or something across. I managed to shave it down and shape it to fit the 12mm hole, but at that point the legs were thin enough that pulling hard on the hammer, the legs would bow in and pop off.

 

I didn't try the newspaper, because after about 2 hours I was kind of over it. I put in the traditional tool I had ground down to fit and welded the bearing to the legs and pulled hard until it flew out.

 

Super annoying, suggestion would be to try the newspaper or a better quality or slightly larger blind bearing puller. The two claw ones have no chance of working the way they are designed.

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I've never had any luck removing roller pilot bearings with grease.

 

The last one I removed, I ended up making a puller to do it, worked great as the bearing was rusted in and took a ton of force to remove.

The idea is to cut a nut so it catches on the back of the inner race, and you can use a bolt bottomed out on the crankshaft to pull the nut out along with the bearing.

From the misc. parts bin, I found a nut that was ever so slightly too large to fit in the center hole, then ground off the points to make it round and so it fits inside the bearing and can get behind the inner race.

I then notched the nut on the grinder so 1/4 of it was cut off, one half of the top later.  I squared off the cut and slightly rounded the cut with a hand file.  The idea is that the cut on the nut catches on the bearing and keeps the nut from rotating when you turn the bolt.

Thread the nut on to a nice long bolt, insert the entire assembly so the nut ledge catches on the inner race, jam an allen wrench or similar next to the nut and jam it in place so it doesn't simply slip back out through the hole, and use a large pair of pliers to keep the entire thing from spinning, then crank away on the bolt!

The grinding may mess the threads up, I used a tap to clean things up, but you may be able to thread the bolt in from the un-cut side to clean things up, then turn the nut around.

 

-Eric

 

Pilot Bearing Tool.JPG

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