Jump to content
HybridZ
Jethoncho

1978 Datsun 280Z RB25 Restomod

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, winstonusmc said:

 

 I did this very thing. The deal to get the strut tube to clear the CV boot is to kick the bottom slightly to the rear. The strut isnt perpendicular to the ground anyway and leans slightly towards the front of the car at the top, so kicking it out at the bottom isnt a big deal. If you see in my picture, the strut is threaded way down. The way it is now, the car can be lowered way further than the stock BC setup. I might redo it in the future and slide the tube higher so I can weld it differently. You have to be careful not to put too much heat into the strut tube as to not warp the threads. Mine are still pretty tight due to the warping. I am not a pro welder, so a pro welder might do a better job at minimizing the warping. I dont have any clearance problems, but that may be due to making my own tabs to place the strut in a better position. I oversized the upper holes to give me some camber adjustment and the camber plates are now at center at ride height with 0 camber. 

 

On another note, I think if I used a TIG welder, the results would be better.

 

20170904_192242.thumb.jpg.9905ee3e3123a3d74f2e50c414eba61e.jpg20170828_165935.thumb.jpg.6b296a1ba3fac065586a6dd5faa9b4cc.jpg20170829_123553.thumb.jpg.e0c24e67d7278004d1c659796efb1c52.jpg

20181027_222022.thumb.jpg.2843addbfd612e6dc57ef9acfd4dbad0.jpg

 

Your rear setup looks great!  I appreciate your input regarding the requirements to run T3 style tabs on the lower BC Coilover Mount.  This is helpful...I’ll keep this thread updated as I make progress.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/4/2018 at 4:58 PM, Kevlars30z said:

No problem man. I’ll be keeping an eye on your updates. Since I would love to run their rear setup with my BC Coils. I’m not looking to be spending 2k plus on coils, since I have mine already. 

I’ll be updating this thread as I progress.  The BC Coilovers are new but they shipped me a set of fronts that are currently mocked up on the vehicle.  BC already sent me some replacement parts to swap out to correct this issue.  Once I get these swapped out and install the axles I’ll get some more photos up.  I am traveling for work so it will be a couple days.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
13 hours ago, winstonusmc said:

 

 I did this very thing. The deal to get the strut tube to clear the CV boot is to kick the bottom slightly to the rear. The strut isnt perpendicular to the ground anyway and leans slightly towards the front of the car at the top, so kicking it out at the bottom isnt a big deal. If you see in my picture, the strut is threaded way down. The way it is now, the car can be lowered way further than the stock BC setup. I might redo it in the future and slide the tube higher so I can weld it differently. You have to be careful not to put too much heat into the strut tube as to not warp the threads. Mine are still pretty tight due to the warping. I am not a pro welder, so a pro welder might do a better job at minimizing the warping. I dont have any clearance problems, but that may be due to making my own tabs to place the strut in a better position. I oversized the upper holes to give me some camber adjustment and the camber plates are now at center at ride height with 0 camber. 

 

On another note, I think if I used a TIG welder, the results would be better.

 

20170904_192242.thumb.jpg.9905ee3e3123a3d74f2e50c414eba61e.jpg20170828_165935.thumb.jpg.6b296a1ba3fac065586a6dd5faa9b4cc.jpg20170829_123553.thumb.jpg.e0c24e67d7278004d1c659796efb1c52.jpg

20181027_222022.thumb.jpg.2843addbfd612e6dc57ef9acfd4dbad0.jpg

Seeing someone do this makes me so happy!😁 Definelty going to proceed and do this. I probably won't be doing this till later next year as I'm currently working on my motor set up....But don't mind if I hit you up down the road for any questions on this. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks to those that reached out to me regarding the CV boots clearance on the lower BC coilover mount with T3 mounting tabs.   I returned from four days on the road and decided to tackle this dilemma...I previously mocked up the rear suspension and figured out BC sent me a set of front coilovers instead of rears.  I contacted BC while I was on the road and they were kind enough to send me a set of rear shocks and springs so I disassembled the rear and built it back up with the new parts while also incorporating T3 camber plates. To use the T3 camber plates T3 sent me bushings meant to integrate their camber plates with the BC coilovers...I decided I wanted to use the BC bushings instead so I took the BC nut and pillow bushing and turned (lathe) the bushing portion down to 15.76mm to fit inside the T3 bearing in their camber plate.

 

Next after building up the rear coilovers with the correct parts I mocked in an axle and I have good clearance on the CV boot.  I attribute this to the fact my lower mounts are likely front mounts and my T3 tabs extend beyond the lower end of the lower mount by a little over an inch or so.  My lower mounts have a reduction in diameter about 4 inches from the lower edge so I attached the T3 mounting tabs even with the upper edge of the larger diameter on the lower mount.  I posted up a few photos to illustrate what I’m talking about.  With the T3 camber plates and T3 lower control arms I don’t anticipate any issue with camber adjustment either.

 

 

0179032B-7A9F-45AB-92D3-248374CA4C82.jpeg

435E7063-94BC-4CA3-85E5-5D6E5B57008A.jpeg

0A3AAF6C-7AAC-471C-B041-2CB3D03666A0.jpeg

Edited by Jethoncho

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back to metal work the past couple of days...finished welding on the left rear quarter replacement.  It needs a little hammer and dolly wok but overall I am happy with how it turned out.  Next the forward section of the left door jamb had a bit of rust neat the hinges.  It wasn’t rusted through but I cut it out and replaced it anyway.  The upper windshield frame had a small area of rust through...it took a small 2” by 0.5” patch welded in to correct this area.  Still to go on he left side...small area on the floorboard (7”x10”), this will be a little work since it’s in the area where there are two drain holes and some bead rolling.

 

I did take a little diversion to restore a 240Z steering wheel that I plan to use...I bead blasted the metal to remove old paint and surface rust.  Next I repainted the spokes with POR15 satin black.  After a day to dry/cure, I sanded the simulated wood and newly painted surfaces with 600 grit and applied thee coats of satin clear coat.  I am extremely pleased with the outcome...too bad I’m likely a year away from installing it but it is gratifying and does help to keep me motivated.

 

DBB459F2-A21A-47E5-8B67-4E454E144FA1.thumb.jpeg.7f65620044c943dcb1b44b7ce9083e7c.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎12‎/‎2‎/‎2018 at 9:57 AM, Jethoncho said:

 

 

Given these dimensions I believe I should be able to stuff a 9.5" wheel in the well but its going require a positive offset of approximately 40.  I may be able to adjust the lower control arms in a bit to get this down...I'll have to take a look at that.  

 

 

So in going back and looking at my setup, the modification to my wheels gave me a +17 offset, and then I added a 10mm spacer, which actually ends up netting me an offset of +7...if my math is correct?

 

Rear suspension looks great!

 

Edited by boosted300

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not very glamorous but very necessary...removed the reinforcement panel to get to the obvious rust behind it.  Cut out the rust damaged panel then fabricated a replacement panel. Butt welded (tacked in) te patch panel.  Still need to complete the welding then fabricate the new reinforcement panel to install over the patch panel.  Not sure what the reinforcement panel actually does as it was original fabricate from very light 20 gauge material.  Anyway, the new patch panel and reinforcement panels are going to be 18ga so they will have greater structural strength then the original stuff. 

 

 

1BA708E2-58DE-4660-AC41-E2C2125EF24B.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, fluidmotion said:

Nice patch.  Had to do the same on mine.  Perhaps Datsun knew those panels would be prone to rust and added extra material haha.

Thanks! I think the reinforcement and the failure of its seam sealer is the cause of the rust in this area. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎12‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 5:07 PM, Jethoncho said:

Not very glamorous but very necessary...removed the reinforcement panel to get to the obvious rust behind it.  Cut out the rust damaged panel then fabricated a replacement panel. Butt welded (tacked in) te patch panel.  Still need to complete the welding then fabricate the new reinforcement panel to install over the patch panel.  Not sure what the reinforcement panel actually does as it was original fabricate from very light 20 gauge material.  Anyway, the new patch panel and reinforcement panels are going to be 18ga so they will have greater structural strength then the original stuff. 

 

 

1BA708E2-58DE-4660-AC41-E2C2125EF24B.jpeg

Leaving everything better than you found it...nice.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is anyone else going crazy with S30 vendors?  Retro-Spec Carbon is driving me crazy, my parts were suppose to ship 12/21 (after over 4 month of waiting)...they didn’t, Techno Toys Tuning orderedrear end swap kit, shipped me incorrect axles and CV boots (after 2 months still waiting for correct axles).  Apex Engineering, promised two weeks on their cross-member with RB mounts after 4.5 weeks still waiting...

 

These guys are niche companies so I guess they can get away with these kind of shenanigans.   Seems to me they would quickly go out of business if there was greater competition.

Edited by Jethoncho

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/5/2018 at 11:04 AM, winstonusmc said:

 

 I did this very thing. The deal to get the strut tube to clear the CV boot is to kick the bottom slightly to the rear. The strut isnt perpendicular to the ground anyway and leans slightly towards the front of the car at the top, so kicking it out at the bottom isnt a big deal. If you see in my picture, the strut is threaded way down. The way it is now, the car can be lowered way further than the stock BC setup. I might redo it in the future and slide the tube higher so I can weld it differently. You have to be careful not to put too much heat into the strut tube as to not warp the threads. Mine are still pretty tight due to the warping. I am not a pro welder, so a pro welder might do a better job at minimizing the warping. I dont have any clearance problems, but that may be due to making my own tabs to place the strut in a better position. I oversized the upper holes to give me some camber adjustment and the camber plates are now at center at ride height with 0 camber. 

 

On another note, I think if I used a TIG welder, the results would be better.

 

20170904_192242.thumb.jpg.9905ee3e3123a3d74f2e50c414eba61e.jpg20170828_165935.thumb.jpg.6b296a1ba3fac065586a6dd5faa9b4cc.jpg20170829_123553.thumb.jpg.e0c24e67d7278004d1c659796efb1c52.jpg

20181027_222022.thumb.jpg.2843addbfd612e6dc57ef9acfd4dbad0.jpg

Here are a couple photos of my BC Racing coilovers mocked up in the rear of my car...to cure the clearance issue with the cv joint I lowered the T3 tabs so the are off the end of the BC weld on mount.  As far as camber issue my T3 lower control arm are currently extended out on the bottom and the T3 camber plates are adjusted out, once the lower control arms are adjusted in the upper camber plates will bring the rear camber in spec.  I’m very pleased with the mock up and happy to be able to use BC stuff on all four corners.

AA26B20E-53DF-4142-B48B-CA392ED875B5.jpeg

A7AD74B9-6167-44E8-A345-C95060AA3E64.jpeg

0232A6B9-43EF-4078-85B1-5478B102AD7C.jpeg

15D2A87C-0953-46BD-A676-73F28515D1F2.jpeg

DA550710-EEEB-4711-AE59-C1D6EE8A7B8F.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 12/30/2018 at 3:57 PM, Jethoncho said:

Is anyone else going crazy with S30 vendors?  Retro-Spec Carbon is driving me crazy, my parts were suppose to ship 12/21 (after over 4 month of waiting)...they didn’t, Techno Toys Tuning orderedrear end swap kit, shipped me incorrect axles and CV boots (after 2 months still waiting for correct axles).  Apex Engineering, promised two weeks on their cross-member with RB mounts after 4.5 weeks still waiting...

 

These guys are niche companies so I guess they can get away with these kind of shenanigans.   Seems to me they would quickly go out of business if there was greater competition.

 

I hear ya man.  I have dealt extensively with all three of these companies over the past year or so, and I have had at least moderate issues with each one of them.  Not just them....but other Z suppliers as well.  Misquotes for delivery, quality problems, you name it.  I think it's like you say....niche companies with little or no competition.

 

I am currently waiting on parts from Carbon Signal (Dubai) and Restored.jp.  I was QUOTED several months for these parts, so needless to say I am a bit apprehensive as to when they might arrive.

 

In contrast, I have recently been fitting out my LS3 for the car, which has meant dealing with Summit Racing.  What a breath of fresh air.  I get 90% of the stuff I order from them next day with ground shipping, returns are quick and painless, and nearly everything is in stock and ready to ship.  Probably not a fair comparison though....Summit being a giant, state of the art retailer.

 

Your build is looking great BTW.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Ironhead said:

 

I hear ya man.  I have dealt extensively with all three of these companies over the past year or so, and I have had at least moderate issues with each one of them.  Not just them....but other Z suppliers as well.  Misquotes for delivery, quality problems, you name it.  I think it's like you say....niche companies with little or no competition.

 

I am currently waiting on parts from Carbon Signal (Dubai) and Restored.jp.  I was QUOTED several months for these parts, so needless to say I am a bit apprehensive as to when they might arrive.

 

In contrast, I have recently been fitting out my LS3 for the car, which has meant dealing with Summit Racing.  What a breath of fresh air.  I get 90% of the stuff I order from them next day with ground shipping, returns are quick and painless, and nearly everything is in stock and ready to ship.  Probably not a fair comparison though....Summit being a giant, state of the art retailer.

 

Your build is looking great BTW.

 

 

Thanks for responding to my vent session...I appreciate your feedback!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today’s project was to fabricate a new windage tray for my modified oil pan.  The oil pan is now complete except for leak check of all my welds.  I ordered an extra pan gasket today, once that arrives I’ll bolt the pan down to the aluminum slab that I have then pressurize it through the drain hole and soap check the welds...once that’s complete I can finally close the lower end on my engine.

0EEA5EFD-AC8A-47E7-83C7-9D91E3186522.jpeg

13669902-2865-48F2-8D0A-4EA697590A96.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jboogsthethug said:

Man I'm happy to finally see some pics of someone actually going through this process, thanks for the great documentation! It all looks great! Are you going to swap the fins on the shallow pan to be the opposite direction? Or did you already do that?

The windage tray I attached to the previous post from yesterday is a completely new fabricated part.  The louvers are reversed from the original to compensate for the pan/sump being reversed.  I’m gonna try to be a little more active with my post cuz I think it helps keep me motivated!  Thanks for following my thread!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This morning’s project was the last bit of sheet metal work on the left side of the car.  There was an area of damage/rust on the driver’s floor board.  The area measured 11”x7” it it was right in the middle of the contoured pressed into the original floor board.  This meant if I wanted to match the existing structure I would have to recreate these.  I bought a bead roller from Jegs but since I’ve never used one before there was a bit of a learning curve.  All in all I pleased with the results...

60FF19AE-9766-4258-999E-42EF7A785999.jpeg

A815B842-40BA-42A6-A270-EACE49225484.jpeg

D830BD09-FF85-47EF-A6D6-79DABF17B0BA.jpeg

930C9B4A-47FF-4995-953D-1263A0D54D17.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×