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ubergumgum's 71' 240z

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You will have to do many small tack welds with thin Mig wire and then join them up, as I'm sure you know, sometimes the old metal on these cars really doesn't like being welded to new metal.  You could also try Silicon/Bronze brazing Mig wire, interesting stuff to weld/braze with, it melts at a much lower temperature so the panels don't get as hot and little chance of warping.

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1 hour ago, Ironhead said:

To help with the impatience (which I have as well) you can cool the metal with compressed air after each small amount of welding.  This keeps heat from building in the panels and allows you to move forward much faster.

yee most likely what i will do, will still wait as long as possible to weld the outer panels. still have a lot of rust left before i get there

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  • 4 weeks later...

since the last update, i finished up the front of the frame legs and the area on the driver side above the frame leg









welded upp the last of the battery tray area







and started finishing up the area where the fuel filler neck usually goes as mine will be behind the numberplate 







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Got some more done on the car, finished up the rear of the framelegs endplates, i also went over some of my floor welds that needed it. 





and some cleaning up of my welds, still some left to do but my angelgrinder wont fit 




i also cleaned up the front inner plates 




then i turned my attention to the center console area, 













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  • 5 weeks later...

Well i haven't updated in awhile, been very busy with finishing school and working on my car. 


As a student i dont have the best economy and haven't been able to purchase more gas for my welder, so i decided to put the car down on the ground and start trail fitting the engine. start making progress on things i already have laying around such as suspension components. 


Some of you might say, go standalone, but i will keep the bmw computer from economical reasons. I will also use the entire bmw wiring harness as I don't want to chop up my original harness because i have the matching numbers engine and want to keep it possible to return to original. So i have started to thin out the bmw wiring harness to make it lighter and removing all the parts i don't need. My biggest worry using the bmw wiring harness was the EWS (security system) I don't really want to remove it as that can be a big problem. I also want to keep all the original controls for lighting and ignition, and such, so far i got the datsun ignition switch to work with the bmw harness.


But after thinning out about 1/3 of all the wires I went to try and crank the car, (when the EWS is not working the starter wont get any signal) and it still cranks 🥳

Sorry about the big format.


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There's people who specialize in deleting EWS if you need that done. 


To keep EWS, you'll need the key from the BMW, the tumbler from the steering column, and the original ECU all working together. I'm not saying that's impossible, but for a few hundred dollars, you can not deal with any of that.





Would any of those work?

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I know its possible to remove, but currently i see it as extra security considering i have gotten the ews to work with the "original tumbler from the datsun". The bmw tumbler doesn't need to be used to start the car but i need the key sitting in the tumble to make sure the EWS is working. 


Dont know if any of you guys seen the Kato Kids BMW M3 on the viczcar . com but he keept the orignial EWS and left the key in the glowbox to keep original computer and security.


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