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Cv axle options. or more so opinions..


joa_taste

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Running into a few issues with my halfshafts like most are.

Since im running a little bit more than stock hp on my 260z, i am needing something a lot more beefy. 

Looking for something that can hold close to 700-800hp on an r200 diff. 29 spline

 

Westcreek (good but is this rated for that much rwhp? read a thread where the OP ran into issues with the install.)

Driveshaft shop ( Probably going with this but i hear the actual adapters rub on the control arms? is this true, will i need to notch?) Also heard you run the risk of bolts unthreading? how is this possible?

z31 axles w/ adapters ( thought i would go with this route, but was pointed in the direction of CJ cave and he never replied back)

 

Let me know your thoughts, just want to do this right and once. Without breaking the bank.... If i don't have to .

 

Joa

 

 

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I would not do the CJ cave adapters. The one made by the guy on here is more correct in the inverted offset design. mt nickel? (spelling incorrect) would be a better alternative.

 

The drive axles are under a lot of rotation. Couple that with imperfections on the road and you get vibrations. I'm running adapters and even with loc-tite I find them loose every couple of months. I have yet to try red as I imagine they will need to come off at some point and I don't want to even think about trying to remove a sheered grade 12 bolt. The solution would be to drill the bolts for safety wire and run multiple lock mechanisms. 

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You can't get around the limitation of a 1.250" stub axle no matter what CVs you use. IMO you're never going to keep the stub axles from breaking at that power level.

Time for backhalf or an IRS solution that allows for larger diameter stub axles. I'd look to an 8.8 if you want IRS. Might as well upgrade that too while you're in there. The diffs are cheap and readily available, lockers and limited slips galore, wide range of gear ratios, there are very strong CV options for them, etc. 

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11 hours ago, seattlejester said:

I would not do the CJ cave adapters. The one made by the guy on here is more correct in the inverted offset design. mt nickel? (spelling incorrect) would be a better alternative.

 

The drive axles are under a lot of rotation. Couple that with imperfections on the road and you get vibrations. I'm running adapters and even with loc-tite I find them loose every couple of months. I have yet to try red as I imagine they will need to come off at some point and I don't want to even think about trying to remove a sheered grade 12 bolt. The solution would be to drill the bolts for safety wire and run multiple lock mechanisms. 

Yeah I was looking at Cj caves. Theres a maroon RB25 280z on youtube running cj caves adapters with rockauto axles. This sounded appealing until i couldn't get ahold of CJ Cave and found out the rockauto axles aren't as durable as the OEM. Are you running RA axles or OEM? Im going to try and get ahold of this guy Mark. I am really leaning towards this route.

 

3 hours ago, jhm said:

Here you go:  https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/128951-fs-z31t-axle-adapter-flanges-for-s30-r200-slim-design/

 

 

He also advertises on the FB pages under "Mark Nickel".

This! Thank you for this. 

 

2 hours ago, JMortensen said:

You can't get around the limitation of a 1.250" stub axle no matter what CVs you use. IMO you're never going to keep the stub axles from breaking at that power level.

Time for backhalf or an IRS solution that allows for larger diameter stub axles. I'd look to an 8.8 if you want IRS. Might as well upgrade that too while you're in there. The diffs are cheap and readily available, lockers and limited slips galore, wide range of gear ratios, there are very strong CV options for them, etc. 

Ahhh I see. The thing is I bought a OBX LSD for the r200 and changed out the internals... Long story short I broke my diff and bought a Quaife.. So unless you're saying the ford 8.8 is compadible, i am sticking to this r200 for the long run.

 

Wish I knew this before going from the r180 to the r200. Thank you for this tho, great info buddy.

 

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Its compatible... no matter what route you go, ditching the stub axles would be a good move.

 

You can find whatever info you like on the super 8.8 swap I'm doing in its own thread so I'm not going to talk about that here.

 

 

An option is to stick with the r200 and replace the outer uprights with either a techno toy tuning upright or one of your own design, or buy one from someone else.

 

If using the t3 ones for example, you can rock 4 lug 240sx hubs and brakes and just figure out how exactly you're going to connect that cv joint to an inner that works with the r200... either via the 300zx axles and a hybrid 240sx shaft or maybe some porsche 930 race axle setup and finding off the shelf stubs for that application etc.

 

 

600 to 700 hp is up there however and hybrid 4 cyl car cv axles may not hold up very long.  But the options are out there.

 

Wilwood hubs used by race teams often use a tie wire method to keep things from coming apart.... so if dead set on using DSS axles maybe something like that is an option?

IMG_20190315_191356_602.jpg

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On 3/19/2019 at 8:08 AM, JMortensen said:

You can't get around the limitation of a 1.250" stub axle no matter what CVs you use. IMO you're never going to keep the stub axles from breaking at that power level.

Time for backhalf or an IRS solution that allows for larger diameter stub axles. I'd look to an 8.8 if you want IRS. Might as well upgrade that too while you're in there. The diffs are cheap and readily available, lockers and limited slips galore, wide range of gear ratios, there are very strong CV options for them, etc. 

 

I really don't think it would be too hard to create a new rear strut housing using newer car bearings and stub axles.  Perhaps something along these lines https://afloresengineering.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/2010-rear-upright-design-report-1-2.pdf.  

 

Cary

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