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scartail

Unseizing the L28?

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Need some help/suggestions.

 

I'm not looking to do a total rebuild, if I can prevent it. My goal is to have a fun weekend ride.

 

Anyway, I pulled a L28ET out of a 81zxt several years ago. It spun freely when I pulled. Eventually, I left it under the tarp for a couple years in the back yard, when I had to relocate for work. When I got back, the engine was froze. I had stored it whole (head on block), with oil still in it. 


I've soaked the cylinders with diesel (for days) and liq pen (for hours) (seperate occasion), and still hasn't freed up.

 

I've now pulled the head, and directly shot liq pen on pistons/rings, and the crank joints (gaps between the crank and rods); still nothing. It's stuck solid. When I load up on the crank, I can feel the bolt turn, but not the crank.

 

At this point (my thinking), if i can free it up, I just need a head gasket (pistons and cyl walls look good), manifold gasket, etc.. as opposed new bearings and all the gaskets.

 

Any advice? Am I beyond the point where it's easier to just tear everything apart? What am I missing?

 

Here's what I'm looking at. Block sitting in a craddle.

engine.png

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It's probably a light ring of rust right next to the piston rings.  Take a closeup shot of the bores and a piston top and you'll probably see something.

 

Not much you can do except get it well lubed up for when it breaks free.  Get some 30 wt. in there.  The penetrant and the diesel won't affect rust, but they will let the rings slide over it, hopefully.

 

Rust never sleeps.  I was digging through some old brake parts that I stored brand new in a dry box in a dry garage the other other day. Rusted and ruined.

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Posted (edited)

I would maybe remove everything thats not needed just in case. Aren´t people suggesting ATF and a 1-2 day soak for this? Make sure you are not mangling up the chain in case it dropped down in a bad position (you did remove the wedge for chain Immobilisation, right ? ;) )

 

then just try to work it in both directions, more of a rattling, trying to break the rings loose

 

(an idea: If he puts the head on and uses a drill to prime the oil pump, would that bring oil back to the crank? )

 

 

Edited by Villeman

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I don't know if this is a good thing or not. 

 

I filled the cylinders with ATF for 8 hrs and didn't get anywhere. Then i followed it by soaking it over night with ATF/acetone mix, that didn't.

 

Thinking of Villeman's idea of getting oil to the crank, etc. I flipped the block upside down and filled it up with old oil. After about a day or I was to get a degree or two of rotation with some persuation with a hammer. So, I can rock back and forth, but doesn't seem to get any more movement.

 

I then flipped it back upright, and soaked the cylinders with the ATF/aceton mix. After a day, the mxiture seeped through the rings. Unfortunately, i still get the same range of motion. No more.

 

Now, I plan to do what Villeman suggested. I'm going to remove all the hadware except the crankshaft, pinston, etc. Unless there is something obvious I am missing?

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Posted (edited)

I would put the head back on if you have the timing chain tensioner properly locked in to place, and just put some force on it in the normal rotation direction. I had assumed that you would put the head back on before trying to rotate it.  You can't turn the crankshaft with the head off because the chain has to move.

 

If you don't have the tensioner locked you won't be able to get the sprocket back on anyway so you'll have to remove the front cover.

Edited by NewZed

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