Andre Jolibois Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 Which Haltech Fuel Management System would you recommend for a 1976- 280Z with a 1983 L28ET engine? Does L28ET dizzy have both Crank and Cam trigger? Or else? Thanks for your advice. Dre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 16, 2019 Share Posted June 16, 2019 I answered your question in your other thread: FYI, it's easy to find answers to your questions, as they have been asked and answered hundreds of times the the past. In a Google search type in the following. 1983 280zx crank sensor site:hybridz.org The key is following your search terms with "site:hybridz.org" to restrict the search to Hybridz.org. Good luck and happy searching! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Jolibois Posted June 16, 2019 Author Share Posted June 16, 2019 Thank you for your quick reply and advice. Will start the research. Dre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 Haltech Elite 750. One of Health's entry level ECU's, but it is purpose built for 6 cylinder engine. Comes with 6 logic coil drivers and 6 High or Low Z injectors drivers. The Low Z injector drivers are true Peak and Hold drivers. Not the cheaper, slower and less accurate PWM Current limiting drivers found on some popular " Build it yourself " ECU's. For a single Ignition coil you will need an external power amplifier. 0v to 5v logic level. The Nissan PRW-2 module is a perfect match. You can find them used for about $10 on E-bay. The Nissan OEM PRW-2 modules are powerful and last forever. Used original Nissan Modules are preferred over Chinea manufactured crappola. Like OEM GM LS-2 coils over aftermarket clones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted June 22, 2019 Share Posted June 22, 2019 Link G4+ Storm is also a good alternative. But the Elite 750 is a very nice ECU. I've tuned both... which is one reason I'm getting away from tuning a different " Build it yourself " brand. The difference in quality of a " REAL " ECU is amazing. Haltech and Link just work properly out of the box. Period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Jolibois Posted June 27, 2019 Author Share Posted June 27, 2019 Thanks Chickenman. What about the Elite 1000? The only shop I could find by me is thinking of the Elite 1000. I do not believe he is familiar with the Z turbo engine. Any recommendations for a shop with dyno in Chicago, Illinois? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 (edited) Elite 1000 only has 4 Ignition Drivers and 4 Injection drivers. I would go with the Elite 750. It is purpose built for 6 cylinder engine and will do everything you need. Go to the Haltech Group on FB. Look up Claudio Taverus Peynado . He used to work for Haltech and has his own shop now. He is a Haltech distributor. https://www.facebook.com/groups/haltechtuningandtips/ https://www.haltech.com/product-overviews/ Edited June 28, 2019 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted June 28, 2019 Share Posted June 28, 2019 (edited) You can compare the different Haltech ECU's here: https://www.haltech.com/product-overviews/ They also have Videos and a comparison chart. The Elite 1000 has a few more advanced I/O features than the Elite 750, but not as many Inj drivers and coil drivers. The 750 is also cheaper than the 1000 . There is a trade-off between more features or more drivers. There are comparison Charts at Haltech. You may not need the Launch control, Traction Control or Knock control. ( Since the L28 has no knock sensors ) Edited June 28, 2019 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andre Jolibois Posted June 28, 2019 Author Share Posted June 28, 2019 You are the best adviser Chickenman. Your advice is well taken. Thank you so much and have a wonderful weekend. I will keep you posted and invite you for a ride Best, Dre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chickenman Posted June 30, 2019 Share Posted June 30, 2019 (edited) Getting my own Haltech E11 dialed in. Very powerful ECU ( Full Seq Fuel on a V12 and wasted spark with V12 ) , but old school. No VE Calculation. Uses Raw Injection Time... which took a bit of head scratching to work out. But it's all just Mathematical calculations in the end. Kinda like using DOS... but it works just fine. Think it's an Ozzie thing ( Haltech is Australian based ) as even the latest Hatech's still use Raw Injection Time... plus VE Calculation and Mass Airflow calculation methods of course. Nice to have choice. Dialed it in by driving the same 100 Mile Loop over and over. Data Logging the whole way. First 200 miles I used a Co-driver, and just worked the Tuning software in Real Time as we drove. After 200 miles, the Tune was good enough that I could just go Solo and DataLog. After 500 miles of Data Logging , Tune was good enough that I was pulling Cruise AFR at 15.0 to 15.5 ( Getting 30+ MPG ) and 12.5 to 13.5 at WOT ( Normally aspirated ). I've since been playing with fiddly little stuff such as Hot Start enrichment and Cruise AE tip-in values. Hot and Cold starts are now instant. Way better than stock Nissan ECU ( 75 280Z NA with engine Mods ) . Hoping to get on a private Race Teams Dyno soon. Dyna-Pak Hub dyno soon. Waiting on a couple of Ford GT's so a Tuner friend can Tune those and then I'll pop the 280Z on the Hub Dyno at the end of the day. Hub Dyno's are so cool. Edited June 30, 2019 by Chickenman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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