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Hi All,

 

I did a very not-so-smart thing and over torqued the shock nut (top nut going into the insulator) when installing my Koni Yellow shocks into the rear strut tubes.  Does anybody know how to free this nut without damaging the shock?  In the pictures it is clear how far down the nut is based on the number of threads showing.  I believe the nut has gone so far down that it is past the normal shock threads and is "threading" into the non-threaded part of the shock.

 

It is impossible to fit a wrench around the smaller hex end just below the adjustment knob of the shock while also using a larger wrench to loosen the shock nut due to the height of the insulator surrounding it (and yes, despite the pictures being taking when installed, I have taken the strut assembly off the car).  I am tempted to use a thick mouse pad to wrap around the shock tube itself and hold it still with vice grips while I loosen the nut but I'm anxious to do so.

 

If anyone has any recommendations or has dealt with this before I would greatly appreciate your help.

 

Thanks,

Liam

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IMG_3257.jpg

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Seems like a high-torque impact wrench should be able to loosen that (could start by trying and electric impact, but may need an air gun to get enough power to loosen the nut).  A deep well impact socket should be deep enough for that situation, hopefully?

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Hi guys, thank you all for the input.  caperix, I liked your idea so I after searching the interwebs, I found a 1/2" drive thru socket wrench with the appropriate sockets and extension.  I was not able to loosen the nut unfortunately due to the risk of stripping the top of the Koni shock (which I ended up doing badly on one side).  I ended up popping off the nuts by drilling holes on opposite sides of the nut and using a chisel/hammer combination to break the nut off.  One strut insulator came off anticlimactically just barely jumping 6 inches after the nut was broken.  The other insulator flew off and left a small scratch in my cabinet door. 

 

This was a scary process and would recommend people to avoid doing this at all costs.  If I were to do this again (with more patience), I would follow 1969honda's advice and use a nut splitter.  Lesson of the day: Don't over impact your nuts kids. 🥜

 

Here's photos of the car as it sat after swapping to a lower spring:

240zquarternoflares.thumb.jpg.f2d3caf61b24eca2c649dd05d680a712.jpg

 IMG_3401.thumb.jpg.99578f4d9ae36a502db61b14bd9859fd.jpg

Update: Marugen flares from Japan-land

IMG_3817.thumb.jpg.3fd9d67413b7102aaee7b1df6a758303.jpg

IMG_3811.thumb.jpg.2230bcc1c42a65acd53a00a1cac78cec.jpg

240zquarterflares.thumb.jpg.5405676cd8fdecf758cfb8f16dcf12e4.jpg

 

 

Currently taking notes on all the flare FAQs and Forums I've found for this project. Now waiting on hardware to ship and for my balls to grow big enough to cut into my car. 🏀

 

-Liam

 

Edited by baby_Carlton
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