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Clutch still slipping after Install.

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Need help diagnosing. Car is a 260z with l28 5 speed, triple Sk.

So I have changed my clutch and flywheel.

fidanza aluminum flywheel

exedy stage 1 organic clutch 225mm

Sachs slave cylinder.

After breaking the clutch in, 1st gear 3k load WOT, my clutch slipped and my accelerator got stuck and the rpm reved to 8k rpm and had to turn the car off then then the accelerator went back.  This happened before as well henced I changed the clutch and flywheel.

attached are pictures of tranny, items and the clutch collar i had from before and also the tranny with 2 tabs.

First not sure why the accelerator gets stuck then comes back normal, but i had to turn the engine off.

Second, the clutch slipped during Load.

C4D13893-5A81-450D-AA1C-98679E754949.png

5C1902A6-A00A-40A5-BE5C-50BA6CA2399D.jpeg

D6052D44-DE19-485E-A114-3D0BFB4C1884.jpeg

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Not really getting how the clutch slipping is making the accelerator stick, unless it's slipping and you're just flooring it. That wouldn't be the best way to handle a slipping clutch though... 

Sounds like maybe the clutch can't hold the power down. The test for a clutch is to go about 35 mph or so, rev the engine to 5K rpm, put the trans in 4th and drop the clutch. If the engine doesn't immediately slow down, then the clutch is slipping and can't hold the power you have. When a clutch is marginal you'll also feel it on redline shifts in the higher gears. The rpm will slowly drop to the actual speed of the engine in the next gear.

As to the sticking throttle, I had an aftermarket carpet kit that caught the corner of the gas pedal a couple times. After a couple incidents I finally just removed the carpet on the driver's floor to fix. Usually carpets or floor mats.

Do you have auxiliary return springs on the triples? Not a good idea to rely on the springs on the carbs. Most (all?) racing orgs will require two additional springs on the linkage. Pretty easy to fab it up too.

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It seems like two distinct problems.

 

Yes, accelerator stick is something like binding in the throttle linkage or the pedal assembly. Nothing should be holding the throttle down while the car is running short of forced induction without a blow off. Otherwise it could be a floor mat/sound deadening/trim catching on it, but that should be fairly obvious.

 

Pretty sure that clutch is only rated for a bit more than stock. According to what little I remember once you go triples on a good tune you will be past what a stock replacement clutch can hold especially of the smaller diameter. The picture of the throwout bearing suggests you suspect an incorrect throwout bearing holder/fork situation. With a 260z that could be a problem, but without more information that would be harder to tell.

 

Also 8k is really high, I worry what thing you punished doing so, I would want to give the engine a once over and check the filter for any bearing material and the timing chain for any like stretching or skipping.

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2 hours ago, seattlejester said:

It seems like two distinct problems.

 

Yes, accelerator stick is something like binding in the throttle linkage or the pedal assembly. Nothing should be holding the throttle down while the car is running short of forced induction without a blow off. Otherwise it could be a floor mat/sound deadening/trim catching on it, but that should be fairly obvious.

 

Pretty sure that clutch is only rated for a bit more than stock. According to what little I remember once you go triples on a good tune you will be past what a stock replacement clutch can hold especially of the smaller diameter. The picture of the throwout bearing suggests you suspect an incorrect throwout bearing holder/fork situation. With a 260z that could be a problem, but without more information that would be harder to tell.

 

Also 8k is really high, I worry what thing you punished doing so, I would want to give the engine a once over and check the filter for any bearing material and the timing chain for any like stretching or skipping.

 

I run a stock 225mm clutch on a 10lb Fidanza on an L28 that makes 195whp without any issue, it's the perfect combo of rev-happy but completely streetable. It's not the clutch, if it was installed correctly. There are tons of posts on checking your clutch stack/release bearing height. First thing I'd do is climb under the car and check if there's free-play at the clutch fork. You don't want it pre-loading the release bearing.

 

Also, no amount of boost pressure is going to keep the throttle plate open, the forces acting on the butterfly are equal and opposite. 

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Hello all, ty for the response. Can you please clarify the slip test clutch? I from what i know that i can put the car in high gear and do WOt and check for slippage/ can you please clarify your test.

btw the accelerator being stuck is from the carpet. 

I drove the car today,  it’s fine with normal driving. Didn't feel any judder or slippage on low rpms or load. 

 

i didn’t do WOt Coz i wasn't sure of the steps you wanted me to do. Sorry, it’s unclear to me.

 

I called exedy, and offcourse they are saying i need to break in the clutch first before anything so far i did put atleast 300 miles. They are telling me to do more, and it has to be no Wot and not that much load. 

 

The clutch i bought is rated to 221 ft lbs.  I’m not sure of where i’m at that power.

 

the collar In the pix is the one i used. Basing on this kit, this is the right one, but who knows if it isnt.

 

I have to look and see if there is play between the fork and the bearing. So you’re saying there should be play?

 

Any words on the proper clutch collar? I bought the clutch collar and bearing from motorsport auto. Thinking maybe the bearing is a culprit. 

 

I can’t remember anymore how I installed it, I'm for sure i did put the clutch correctly. 

 

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1 hour ago, HuD 91gt said:

There is many different sized collars, the only way to know if you have the right one is to measure. Either this forum or classicZcar has a thread about throwout bearing collars.

 

 Any links?

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9 hours ago, Phib said:

 

Hello all, ty for the response. Can you please clarify the slip test clutch? I from what i know that i can put the car in high gear and do WOt and check for slippage/ can you please clarify your test.

Sure. Relatively slow speed, say 30 or 35 mph. 4th gear with clutch in and floor it. When the engine gets up to ~5000 rpm, dump the clutch. The rpms should immediately fall to 1500 or whatever it would be at that speed. If it comes down slowly, your clutch is slipping.

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11 hours ago, JMortensen said:

Sure. Relatively slow speed, say 30 or 35 mph. 4th gear with clutch in and floor it. When the engine gets up to ~5000 rpm, dump the clutch. The rpms should immediately fall to 1500 or whatever it would be at that speed. If it comes down slowly, your clutch is slipping.

 

I will drive the car this week end and will let you know.

 

4 hours ago, HuD 91gt said:

Didn’t have time to search.  This thread looks relevent.

 

https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/58235-trans-id-help/

I looked at it. Looks like a do have a standard 5 speed with the 2 ears. Looks like a wide or normal ratio 5 speed.

but which collar to get? Hehe

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On 7/22/2019 at 7:42 PM, Leon said:

 

I run a stock 225mm clutch on a 10lb Fidanza on an L28 that makes 195whp without any issue, it's the perfect combo of rev-happy but completely streetable. It's not the clutch, if it was installed correctly. There are tons of posts on checking your clutch stack/release bearing height. First thing I'd do is climb under the car and check if there's free-play at the clutch fork. You don't want it pre-loading the release bearing.

 

Also, no amount of boost pressure is going to keep the throttle plate open, the forces acting on the butterfly are equal and opposite. 

Hmm, I'm going based off of someone local who went triples and said their clutch started slipping with a stage 1. I think my exedy stage 1 was rated for like 200tq at the flywheel, I kind of thought the engines made more torque than hp. I'm glad it is working for you though, it is a nice option and cheap to. I think I paid like $100 for my kit on sale.

 

I've heard of throttle being held open on supercharged applications, granted the realm I am in is with electronic throttle bodies, so not sure if you can assign the fault completely there, I think we had someone on our forum who had the issue on a supercharged L series. It was a thing on the supra forums with throttle blades being bent, although this is on large throttle bodies with massive turbos. 

 

Bottom line I'm with you, very unlikely.

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FWIW, I would prefer to have a stiffer pp and a normal style clutch than a puck clutch with a lighter pp. Seen flywheels gouged from puck clutches, a friend had the thrust bearing on the crank destroyed by a puck clutch in a CA18DET, etc. I ran an ACT stiff pp with a stock disk and that held down my L28/Mikuni combo just fine.

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Update:  So I changed the clutch collar and bearing to the correct one. I compared the clutch collars and it seems to be about the same.

 

So far no problems going through gears. I am testing it tom Am for slippage.

  • Thanks 1

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