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1971 240z ITB install


DuffyMahoney

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This is my plan for the injector positive. Basically a Y splice and crimp. The pulley wire isn’t cut. Just the sheath is removed. Then crimped another wire onto it. Then a dab of soldier. Then heat shrink. Should work perfectly. It’s just going to take a long time! 

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You should not solder. That makes the joint brittle not better. Crimp heat shrink and move on. No auto manufacturers solder the joint. And that’s not because it takes more time. It is understood that that puts a stress area in the harness 

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First major setback. The return stock hardline is too small and is causing pressure to build up. Lowest I can get is 75psi. 
 

My plan is reuse the 8mm fill line as my new return then run 3/8 new flexible hose from the pump to the fuel rail. Then 5/16 line from the FPR to the 8mm stock line back to the tank. Then Y the 8mm (5/16) hardline to stock 5mm return and the 10mm tank vent. 

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I would make sure there is not another cause. I am running 3/8 supply and stock 5/16 return and steady 42 psi. I have done this same set up several times. I suspect there is a restriction somewhere or you have a 5 bar regulator. I really think something else is going on. 

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9 hours ago, Zetsaz said:

Later cars had larger lines.

 

Also, that tank is so damn clean. Hoping mine turns out half as good. 

The black tank is mine.  The other was some image from google.

 

I had mine, acid cleaned, then sealed. Then the exterior is powder coated.  

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47 minutes ago, DuffyMahoney said:

The black tank is mine.  The other was some image from google.

 

I had mine, acid cleaned, then sealed. Then the exterior is powder coated.  

 

Where did you take it to have that work done? What was the estimate? Mine is in decent shape but has some gunks. I'll have to live with some of the dents since I don't want to crack it open.

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Just now, Zetsaz said:

 

Where did you take it to have that work done? What was the estimate? Mine is in decent shape but has some gunks. I'll have to live with some of the dents since I don't want to crack it open.

 

I took to a local radiator shop.  They actually said they did it all the time.  I was told its a common thing for radiator shops to do.  

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I am going to attempt to move my FPR to the drivers side and use it.  That way I am hard lines under the car.  I will T the return from 7mm to 5mm and return via the stock 5mm line and the 7mm vapor vent line.  Then use the 5/16 to feed the ITBs.  Hopefully it works! I bought some 7mm efi fuel hose from belmetric.  So that should give me a good amount more flow.  Hopefully my push lock fittings work with it.  

My FPR mount was waiting to fail, i cut a lot of the strength out.  So I will need to fabricate another and put it in my stock coil spot.  Should end up looking pretty clean and simple.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

I gave up on mounting the fuel pressure regulator on the engine bay walls, I hated the amount of hoses that crossed over the engine bay.  

I ended up buying a radium -6 direct mount FPR (very nicely made).  Then I had an adapter machined to match the 14mm fittings that the Jenvy fuel rail uses.  I should be able to split both sides of the FPR to my 7mm return and my 5mm return.  I think I came out great.  Very neat design by radium, it can be mounted in any direction.  

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That is exactly what I have done with the Radium as well. It is very nice stuff. 
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I got my intake and other parts back from the powder coater. I really like how it ties everything together. This has caused a snowball effect. Since the intake was off it seemed like I should put on one of the Nissan Motorsport headers I had swain tech coated. This means a entirely new exhaust, while I’m at it I want to change out my hoses and plumb my oil cooler water in under the thermostat. I am also thinking about doing the cooling system mod for cylinders 2-6. This motor was originally built as a road race motor and just had the compression dropped for pump gas with a thicker head gasket. Now that my tune is / was dialed in before the new exhaust and  with the better cooling I can bump up the compression a little. I am running dual knock sensors and if I get a good knock floor with compression where it is and some race fuel I can feel good that the ecu will protect the motor with the higher compression. 

 

 

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Well my stock original 1971 series 1 tach works with my fully sequential r35 coil on plug Efi system (haltech elite 750) . I literally ran the coil positive out from the ecu through the white wire with a red band then out to the coils through tachs white wire with a black band. Nothing else was needed. Added about 15” to my entire positive for the coils. I like how the tach feels and reacts the same as it always has. This would work on any 240z tach and a rb swap or aftermarket Efi with COP and fully sequential. I don’t know if it would work on wasted spark or not. Thanks Dirk Stoop for pushing this way vs the others.

Where I got the idea

https://www.viczcar.com/…/9515-getting-a-240z-tacho-to-wor…/

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